Home Automation - Smartkit

Got around to fitting my L1's this weekend.

Running the LED into the channel.
WhatsApp Image 2019-04-01 at 08.22.39.jpeg

Channel all closed up:
WhatsApp Image 2019-04-01 at 08.22.39(1).jpeg

Still need to close up this hole, had to make it bigger and uglier than I wanted to fit the connection blocks through.
WhatsApp Image 2019-04-01 at 08.22.39(2).jpeg

I put the controller above the cupboard in the adjacent bedroom:
WhatsApp Image 2019-04-01 at 08.22.38.jpeg

Not really a fan of having to use a remote all the time, and I don't think the L1 can be flashed with Tasmota yet - so I added a Sonoff RF into the extension lead the L1 is plugged into and Sonoff T433, most of the time we won't be changing light colours so it works well:
WhatsApp Image 2019-04-01 at 08.22.39(3).jpeg

T433 also makes it feel more like a light and less gimicky than using a remote.

Things I don't like:
  • Should have spent more time shopping for a better way to extend the cable from the controller to the strip, ended up buying short extenders and cutting off the ends, and extending with a longer cable and black connection blocks.
  • Wish I had a nice gland or something for where the cable comes out the ceiling, but for a 6'3" 105kg guy to climb into the corner of a pitched roof involves tears, profanities and lots of sweat.
  • The channel has clips that you first screw in and then the channel clips into it. These clips are soft metal and flimsy, if you move the channel while putting it in you end up bending the clips open. I should have ditched the clips and drilled holes through the channel and screwed it in directly to the soffit.
  • The L1 controller doesn't seem to have a very good wifi receiver in it. The Sonoff RF that is right next to it shows about 70% wifi strength on my UniFi controller. The L1 shows 23%. My phone shows as 95% in the same spot. So something worth considering if your wifi is not strong in the area you plan on putting your L1.
Things I like:
  • The ewelink app also has a function to make the lights go with the beat of the music using your phone's mic. It's quite fun.
  • The double sided tape on the back is super sticky and feels like good quality - I'm not sure how it would hold up exposed outside, but inside (like under a kitchen counter) I'm sure it would last long.
The metal channel and cover I got is ok, but it's a motherfng pain to snap the cover onto the channel - spent an hour just on that.

Sorry, didn't take a pic with the lights on at night, but overall I'm happy and it gives a nice glow to the area - I can let me dog out in the middle of the night without needing other lights and without being blinded at 2am by floodlights.

Sorry for the lengthy post, but maybe it comes in handy for someone else.
FYI, this is the channel I bought: https://www.futurelight.co.za/products/led-extrusion-a6-profile?variant=4196499905

Edit:
My dog would not approve of the derpy pic of her. So here's a better one for free.
1554102178391.png
 
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Nice update dude... thanks...

Looks good actually...

Also one of the things I'm finding over time, and its difficult for me to accept/do, is that the small imperfections in installation are not noticed by anyone other than you...
 
Nice update dude... thanks...

Looks good actually...

Also one of the things I'm finding over time, and its difficult for me to accept/do, is that the small imperfections in installation are not noticed by anyone other than you...
Yeah, it's hard to just walk away from a project when you feel a part of it could be done better. It's why it may cost someone R500 to do something but it costs me R1000, because I want to get the right tools and parts for the job.

It's a curse I tell you.
 
Is there anything stopping me from taking one of these and wiring a Sonoff (with an earth) into the wall box and hiding it behind the plate?

dH6bESA.png


Thereby having a smart socket hidden away out of site and supporting the SA-plug standard.

Or am I being stupid?
 
Is there anything stopping me from taking one of these and wiring a Sonoff (with an earth) into the wall box and hiding it behind the plate?

dH6bESA.png


Thereby having a smart socket hidden away out of site and supporting the SA-plug standard.

Or am I being stupid?
Nothing stopping you no, but the only thing to think about is will you want the physical switches to still work, and if they do - do you put them before or after the Sonoff.

Before the Sonoff: If you switch it off at the physical switch then you can't switch the appliance on again with the Sonoff.
After the Sonoff: If the Sonoff is off and you want to switch the appliance on, you'll need to get your phone out and switch the Sonoff on.
 
Nothing stopping you no, but the only thing to think about is will you want the physical switches to still work, and if they do - do you put them before or after the Sonoff.

Before the Sonoff: If you switch it off at the physical switch then you can't switch the appliance on again with the Sonoff.
After the Sonoff: If the Sonoff is off and you want to switch the appliance on, you'll need to get your phone out and switch the Sonoff on.

Yeah I would imagine the internals are such that the GPIO14 option wouldn't be available to you for wiring it up.

So probably have the switch power the Sonoff as the easier option, since I ultimately just want the timer functions available to me and don't mind if it stays "on" permanently.

Seems a neater solution than to make an "external" plug setup.
 
Is there anything stopping me from taking one of these and wiring a Sonoff (with an earth) into the wall box and hiding it behind the plate?

Is this a sealed unit (switch integrated into socket) or is it still old style where the switch is separate to the socket and you have to do the wiring yourself? If the latter, you can accomplish what you want.
Edit: based on the picture provided, it can go either way. The newer ones are sealed units.
 
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Seems a neater solution than to make an "external" plug setup.
Is this a sealed unit (switch integrated into socket) or is it still old style where the switch is separate to the socket and you have to do the wiring yourself? If the latter, you can accomplish what you want.

It seems the newer ones are all built in(ie. only connect power, neutral and earth) but I was lucky to have some older ones my dad chucked out when he wanted the newer sleek ones. They have a (from factory) link from the other side of the switch that you can use, so check out some plugs that look less fancy perhaps. In the 4 x4 single plug boxes you will have more than enough space, perhaps even in a double, I have not yet put a sonoff in one, but have done other stuff.
But do like this idea.:)
 
If it is the old style plug where the switch is separate from the socket, then you can use GPIO14 (as per @SauRoNZA) whereby the Sonoff init will be powered permanently and you can use the physical switch and/or the software to control the power to the socket.
 
Is this a sealed unit (switch integrated into socket) or is it still old style where the switch is separate to the socket and you have to do the wiring yourself? If the latter, you can accomplish what you want.
Edit: based on the picture provided, it can go either way. The newer ones are sealed units.

I have no actually opened it, but yes I’m going on the assumption it’s an older one that isn’t sealed.

I’m sure you could do it with the sealed, but then both plugs would be controlled by the Sonoff which isn’t ideal.
 
HI Guys.
this might be a question asked already. I have a 433.92Mhz remote . rolling code . have any one baby did a modification on it or been Abel to create a remote sender unit using IOT or Raspberry pi .
my whole plane is to integrate a remote in to my OH2 setup to control my IDS X64 Alarm and also some other functions. it is a 4 ch Transmitter and the receiver is bus connected directly in to my Alarm panel. I have already got my Pi to monitor the alarm outputs for updates to openhab. but want to have surety functions available from my Ui to control certen things . can any one point me in the right direction ?
attached is the receiver manual and remote image .
IDS_4_Button_remote_control.jpg
Regards
 

Attachments

a friend of mine hooked up a Sonoff SV to activate the button on his alarm remote and gate remote.
All sorted and works great.
Just make sure to do the necessary on the Sonoff so as not to pass the current through to the remote. (Some minor mods to the circuit board components)
 
Got introduced to Node.Red yesterday. This thing looks ace for automation type stuff and dashboards, and looks like it can coexist with HomeAssistant as well by sharing the MQTT broker...
 
Got introduced to Node.Red yesterday. This thing looks ace for automation type stuff and dashboards, and looks like it can coexist with HomeAssistant as well by sharing the MQTT broker...
It is something else. works seamlessly with HA. and gives a far more "visual" way to do your automations.
I havent actually started implementing, first wanna get my hassio onto an SSD but will do so soon.

Apparently it is worth the move.
 
It is something else. works seamlessly with HA. and gives a far more "visual" way to do your automations.
I havent actually started implementing, first wanna get my hassio onto an SSD but will do so soon.

Apparently it is worth the move.
Yeah. AppDaemon's days may be numbered inside my dock ....
 
I came across it a little while ago.... and its definitely caught my attention, need to spend a weekend digging into it though and see if its worth migrating stuff across to make the whole automation thing simpler.
 
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