Home Automation - Smartkit

Cool, I've got a basic here somewhere that I'll try this with. Putting the sonoff in the light fitting, or surface box in the ceiling would make it easier for situations where there is no neutral.

Your other option is Qwikswitch. The physical switch is a push button (not a toggle) I’ve converted many of my lights so far and super happy. If you need the QSUsb in order to work with HA you need to contact them directly for it.
 
So I attempted to connect up a Sonoff SV to my centurion gate motor. Wired it between COM and Trigger. Shorted that wire gate open, happy days. I then tried to wire it to the 12v battery on the gate, I used some DuPont cables, which clearly couldn’t handle something and they melted... anyway, question is, do I need to use a heavier gauge wire when wiring the battery to the SV?
 
So I attempted to connect up a Sonoff SV to my centurion gate motor. Wired it between COM and Trigger. Shorted that wire gate open, happy days. I then tried to wire it to the 12v battery on the gate, I used some DuPont cables, which clearly couldn’t handle something and they melted... anyway, question is, do I need to use a heavier gauge wire when wiring the battery to the SV?

Don't connect it direct to the battery, connect it to the control board, there are outputs
 
Good timing, I'm doing SV's on gate motors this weekend. Just have to Tasmote these bastards first.
 
The issue that you are having is that you are effectively shorting the + and - contacts if you don't change the sonoff SV to give the "dry contact" output (there are guides on the net). Alternatively you could add a relay (I made a drawing a while back). That is why the wires are melting, not because of low gauge wire. You may break your gate motor electronics, be careful!
 
Smartkit did this guide sometime ago.

Not sure if still necessary to use the relay.
 
Don't connect it direct to the battery, connect it to the control board, there are outputs

Shouldn’t make a difference, some of mine are wired directly to battery without issue.

Sounds like it wasn’t made into a dry contact.
 
Would an electrician be willing to CoC Sonoff Mini's used on light switches? Does Sonoff have the required certification for this to be possible?

Assuming of course that they there in the ceiling in an enclosed box with correct wiring, conduit, etc
 
Would an electrician be willing to CoC Sonoff Mini's used on light switches? Does Sonoff have the required certification for this to be possible?

Assuming of course that they there in the ceiling in an enclosed box with correct wiring, conduit, etc
They do have Type Approval from ICASA, they also have CE certification and we can supply all relevant testing material.
 
Ouens, now I am confused AF... is there a software setting I need to do in Tasmota do make the dry contact output or am I missing something more technical here?
 
Sorry bud, there is no software setting in tasmota to make it a dry contact, but rather a hardware one. You can either remove a few resistors on the SV, or add a relay - no other ways around it.

You could also buy sonoff RE5V1C (that comes with a dry contact by default).
 
Hmm, I did remove the 1ohm resistors.

Edit: I soldered some headers on the input and outputs, is it as simple as just bridging output?
 
Last edited:
Shouldn’t make a difference, some of mine are wired directly to battery without issue.

Sounds like it wasn’t made into a dry contact.

good point, i just assumed he had. i would usually just use the board anyway as the voltage will be more "regulated" and the board is fused.
 
OK, since I am somewhat scared of screwing up the gate motor... Do I now just connect the trigger and COM to the output side then, and don't touch input? Apologies for the dumb questions...
 
OK, since I am somewhat scared of screwing up the gate motor... Do I now just connect the trigger and COM to the output side then, and don't touch input? Apologies for the dumb questions...

yes the input side for the relay should be bridged and the trigger and common to gate motor.

sonoff sv.jpg

yellow is the two resistors you must take off. Red and black are power from the board. the red loop is the two contacts bridged. purple/blue is the trigger and common, orientation doesn't matter here.

you need to set inching on the sonoff, if you have tasmota then use something like this:
Switchretain 1
Powerretain 1
PulseTime1 1
 
So next question, the gate motor is a centurion D2, anyone know if there is a way to read the open/close state of this gate, or do I need a sensor?
 
Top
Sign up to the MyBroadband newsletter
X