Let's design our own UPS

Charger in the ups. Iirc @wingnut771 mentioned that 13.4v would be a good point to stop charging them so it's probably being overcharged a bit.
14.7V would be overcharging. I meant a float charge of 13.4V, if you're bulking you can go up to 14.6V. Although I don't think you can set the voltage with this UPS and probably just uses a fixed voltage, so would be curious to see what voltage it does settle on, but maybe we're there already with 13.8V, or maybe it has stages like a normal inverter and will go to 14+V during bulk and settle back down for float?
 
Charger in the ups. Iirc @wingnut771 mentioned that 13.4v would be a good point to stop charging them so it's probably being overcharged a bit.

Tested in 2 small UPSes. Edited above.
Oh, you didn't have anything plugged into the UPS's?
 
Oh, you didn't have anything plugged into the UPS's?
Not much. For example had a 23" screen plugged in but not powered on (in standby) for most of the time during charging.

I tested with the 23" screen on the 720va previously and it lasted around 2.5 hours before dying.

My 600va ups has a set timer and can not be powered on for more than 2 hours.
 
Last edited:
Going a bit of DIY way due to lack of funds at this stage. This comes out to be 6279 rands.

Posted a bit of this earlier but I think this is what I am going for. Just to support one monitor + one laptop for 5 hours.

A question. Is there alternative to using these clamps? I am not sure if clamps will fit in the battery cabinet etc and I don't want it to be outside.

1663834660848.png + 1663834708932.png+ 1663834791696.png
+
+
 
Last edited:
As my father used to say "why buy something for R1000 when you can build it for R2000?"

Tongue in cheek, but is there really any value here? China is crazy cheap in my experience in building electronics. Economy of scale is the only reason I can see for them being able to be so cheap.
 
Going a bit of DIY way due to lack of funds at this stage.

Posted a bit of this earlier but I think this is what I am going for. Just to support one monitor + one laptop for 5 hours.

A question. Is there alternative to using these clamps? I am not sure if clamps will fit in the battery cabinet etc and I don't want it to be outside.

View attachment 1387514 + View attachment 1387516+ View attachment 1387518
+
+
I had that battery but mine had threaded poles so you could use a ring and nut type of clamp...
You could then just cut the ends off the charger/inverter and use the appropriate fittings (assuming this is all you are going to use it for...)

Otherwise the normal clamps you use on a car battery would also be fine.
 
As my father used to say "why buy something for R1000 when you can build it for R2000?"

Tongue in cheek, but is there really any value here? China is crazy cheap in my experience in building electronics. Economy of scale is the only reason I can see for them being able to be so cheap.
I am not sure if you refer to my one post above. I honestly couldn't find any decent readymade backup solution for my needs (500W). Also, good chances that all these products are made in China anyways. :cool:
 
Last edited:
Going a bit of DIY way due to lack of funds at this stage. This comes out to be 6279 rands.

Posted a bit of this earlier but I think this is what I am going for. Just to support one monitor + one laptop for 5 hours.

A question. Is there alternative to using these clamps? I am not sure if clamps will fit in the battery cabinet etc and I don't want it to be outside.

View attachment 1387514 + View attachment 1387516+ View attachment 1387518
+
+
I would skip the box if you don't have kids with sticky fingers if you're on a tight budget, as it's just a nice to have imho.

edit: Yes, I would change the clamps for ring lugs and get battery terminal connectors like this.
1663836261784.png
 
I had that battery but mine had threaded poles so you could use a ring and nut type of clamp...
You could then just cut the ends off the charger/inverter and use the appropriate fittings (assuming this is all you are going to use it for...)

Otherwise the normal clamps you use on a car battery would also be fine.
Perfect. Thanks a lot. It looks like TAL has those as well.

1663836184395.png
 
I would skip the box if you don't have kids with sticky fingers if you're on a tight budget, as it's just a nice to have imho.

edit: Yes, I would change the clamps for ring lugs and get battery terminal connectors like this.
View attachment 1387524
Thanks. Got kid at home and like most kids, he is going to poke where he can. :)
 
Last edited:
I would skip the box if you don't have kids with sticky fingers if you're on a tight budget, as it's just a nice to have imho.

edit: Yes, I would change the clamps for ring lugs and get battery terminal connectors like this.
View attachment 1387524
Sorry for silly questions but is it easy to change clamps for ring lugs? I hope there is no soldering involved as I don't know how safe it would be. Never done soldering before.
 
Sorry for silly questions but is it easy to change clamps for ring lugs? I hope there is no soldering involved as I don't know how safe it would be. Never done soldering before.
Some people solder and crimp, others just crimp. You would need a crimping tool though and correct size (for wire gauge thickness and size of screw) ring lug. Just cut the clamps off, strip back the insulation a little, position the ring lug and crimp (sometimes more than once to get a solid connection).

Hope that helps. :)
 
Soldering isn't hard, especially if it's just wires like that. PCBs become more interesting, but soldering lugs onto wires (or even wires to each other) is very easy, if you have a halfway decent iron.]

If you do go that route though, do yourself a favour and use heat shrink not insulation tape to cover it up afterwards. Tape is awful.
 
Soldering isn't hard, especially if it's just wires like that. PCBs become more interesting, but soldering lugs onto wires (or even wires to each other) is very easy, if you have a halfway decent iron.]

If you do go that route though, do yourself a favour and use heat shrink not insulation tape to cover it up afterwards. Tape is awful.
The important thing is to also crimp. If something goes wrong and the wire gets hot, the solder melts. Solder will help keep the connection from oxidising afaik.
 
Please DO NOT solder then crimp. Crimp connectors are not made to be soldered as well.
It sounds like it'll be better to do both but it really isn't.
These things are made to adhere to strict standards, they don't need to be soldered.
 
Please DO NOT solder then crimp. Crimp connectors are not made to be soldered as well.
It sounds like it'll be better to do both but it really isn't.
These things are made to adhere to strict standards, they don't need to be soldered.
Agree, but the crimping needs to be solid. They shouldn't just come apart if you pull on it.
 
Top
Sign up to the MyBroadband newsletter
X