New The PC Build Thread

[longboy]

Not a "new" build, but due to RAM prices, I am trying to squeeze another year or two out of my AM4 PC. So, I bought the 5800x3D 10th Anniversary Edition, which should arrive today. Moving from a 3600 non-X, I should see a bit of a performance boost (as I'm being CPU limited at the moment).

Next up, I will have to look at getting a 32GB DDR4-3600 Dual channel kit, then a GPU upgrade.

The RAMpocolypse is really screwing up our hobby.

You best have a mainboard with good VRM's and mosfets for that 5700X3D. I recommend the TUF Gaming B550 ATX. You need some good overkill for this cpu's power demands. Throw away any A520 or cheap B550m mainboards - you will end up with overheating voltage regulator modules and mosfets much quicker than a solid B550 board.

If you have an older case get a cheaper 4 or 7 fan config tower or fishtank and positive airflow to keep those components cool. Airflow is your very good friend, as are dust filters. I always recommend buying a fanless tower and using Arctic P12 pro fans, rgb or without. They are cheap and astonishingly good.

Get a nice air cooler 200w TDP min, like a Deepcool AK620 or ID-Cooling similar if you strapped for cash. Skip AIO's since they will need too much maintenance and once they fail you will be left in the bush. If you absolutely must have an AIO, get an Arctic Liquid Freezer III 360 Pro - It is optimised for AMD CPU hotspots and specifi hot die areas on the chip.

You'll also need a Class B PSU as minimum - I'd actually recommend a lower wattage 650W+ Class A to keep those component lifespans great, depending on your GPU+CPU TPD + accessories and RAM. (Leave 20% headroom always). Make sure to paste the cpu properly - use MX4 since it doesnt dry quick or MX6/7 is you're willing to save 1-2 degrees but repaste more often.

The last and very important thing is a good quality surge supressor connected to home DB board, and another surge multiplug or pure sine wave inverter connected to your PC to flatten those voltage spikes/brownouts and surges.

Follow these tips from an experienced builder and your cool and clean powered PC will thank you in 10 years from now.

 

[Tech Guy SA]

You best have a mainboard with good VRM's and mosfets for that 5700X3D. I recommend the TUF Gaming B550 ATX. You need some good overkill for this cpu's power demands. Throw away any A520 or cheap B550m mainboards - you will end up with overheating voltage regulator modules and mosfets much quicker than a solid B550 board.

If you have an older case get a cheaper 4 or 7 fan config tower or fishtank and positive airflow to keep those components cool. Airflow is your very good friend, as are dust filters. I always recommend buying a fanless tower and using Arctic P12 pro fans, rgb or without. They are cheap and astonishingly good.

Get a nice air cooler 200w TDP min, like a Deepcool AK620 or ID-Cooling similar if you strapped for cash. Skip AIO's since they will need too much maintenance and once they fail you will be left in the bush. If you absolutely must have an AIO, get an Arctic Liquid Freezer III 360 Pro - It is optimised for AMD CPU hotspots and specifi hot die areas on the chip.

You'll also need a Class B PSU as minimum - I'd actually recommend a lower wattage 650W+ Class A to keep those component lifespans great, depending on your GPU+CPU TPD + accessories and RAM. (Leave 20% headroom always). Make sure to paste the cpu properly - use MX4 since it doesnt dry quick or MX6/7 is you're willing to save 1-2 degrees but repaste more often.

The last and very important thing is a good quality surge supressor connected to home DB board, and another surge multiplug or pure sine wave inverter connected to your PC to flatten those voltage spikes/brownouts and surges.

Follow these tips from an experienced builder and your cool and clean powered PC will thank you in 10 years from now.

personally if its gaming its gonna get hot so yes a good heatsink on those VM's is worth it. AIO wise yeah not so much for this CPU as long as the air cooler is nice and large for air intake and a large enough heatsink should do the job my 5800X3D barley touches 60s its 28-31 atm and all im doing is work related and my case fans are on low (2x 200mm intake bottom and 3x120mm excust on top (vertical air setup in this case).

talk about surge.
https://www.techguysa.co.za/products/cooler-master-24pin-90-power-adapter-w-capacitor-black/ (Check your board and cases layout before hand as its L shaped)
that along with a surge protector on the wall and the db board (unless you renting).

UPS is great if its within your budget.

 

[longboy]

personally if its gaming its gonna get hot so yes a good heatsink on those VM's is worth it. AIO wise yeah not so much for this CPU as long as the air cooler is nice and large for air intake and a large enough heatsink should do the job my 5800X3D barley touches 60s its 28-31 atm and all im doing is work related and my case fans are on low (2x 200mm intake bottom and 3x120mm excust on top (vertical air setup in this case).

talk about surge.
https://www.techguysa.co.za/products/cooler-master-24pin-90-power-adapter-w-capacitor-black/ (Check your board and cases layout before hand as its L shaped)
that along with a surge protector on the wall and the db board (unless you renting).

UPS is great if its within your budget.

Great lil 24 pin Mainboard power adapter there. It's nice if you don't have much surge/voltage protection - at least it will save your 5v and 3.3V components in the event of a huge spike.

Get another for the 8(+8 in some boards) pin EPS connector/s and GPU connector/s whether its 12v High Power or 6/8 pin and you're gold. Those high quality 105C Japanese caps are worth their weight in gold - actually better than a surge multiplug for delicate components like transistors/resistors/integrated chips and also board caps etc since it sends smooth power continously.

A friend used a Class E 850W cheap Chinese PSU for a R32000 system and his 12V HPWR connector melted like a snowman in summer at both the PSU output and GPU input slots! It just shows how important good clean power delivery is for delicate electronics. The connectors were correctly installed and they were the correct specs. He ended up eventually replacing the mainboard after a few months as well due to blown mosfets.

 

[Tech Guy SA]

Great lil 24 pin Mainboard power adapter there. It's nice if you don't have much surge/voltage protection - at least it will save your 5v and 3.3V components in the event of a huge spike.

Get another for the 8(+8 in some boards) pin EPS connector/s and GPU connector/s whether its 12v High Power or 6/8 pin and you're gold. Those high quality 105C Japanese caps are worth their weight in gold - actually better than a surge multiplug for delicate components like transistors/resistors/integrated chips and also board caps etc since it sends smooth power continously.

yep
those thermal grizzly ones should do it. not that i have one on my machine (the cooler master one i do) survived load shedding well with a ecoflow Delta 2 (unless im going over 660watts usage there was a 25% chance it would restart when the power i trip considering its speed isnt as fast as an ups inverter)

ive seen boars die within 6 years cause of
Heat
surges

they look in perfect condition but the wear and tear on the VM's just makes things very unstable.

 

[Lupus]

Intel cards need have newish platform like am5 to get best our out of it and with prices.of ddr5 it might not be worth it. Il rather go 9060xt 16gb

No they work on AM4, they just need pcie4 and newer AM4 chips.

 

[Lupus]

You best have a mainboard with good VRM's and mosfets for that 5700X3D. I recommend the TUF Gaming B550 ATX. You need some good overkill for this cpu's power demands. Throw away any A520 or cheap B550m mainboards - you will end up with overheating voltage regulator modules and mosfets much quicker than a solid B550 board.

If you have an older case get a cheaper 4 or 7 fan config tower or fishtank and positive airflow to keep those components cool. Airflow is your very good friend, as are dust filters. I always recommend buying a fanless tower and using Arctic P12 pro fans, rgb or without. They are cheap and astonishingly good.

Get a nice air cooler 200w TDP min, like a Deepcool AK620 or ID-Cooling similar if you strapped for cash. Skip AIO's since they will need too much maintenance and once they fail you will be left in the bush. If you absolutely must have an AIO, get an Arctic Liquid Freezer III 360 Pro - It is optimised for AMD CPU hotspots and specifi hot die areas on the chip.

You'll also need a Class B PSU as minimum - I'd actually recommend a lower wattage 650W+ Class A to keep those component lifespans great, depending on your GPU+CPU TPD + accessories and RAM. (Leave 20% headroom always). Make sure to paste the cpu properly - use MX4 since it doesnt dry quick or MX6/7 is you're willing to save 1-2 degrees but repaste more often.

The last and very important thing is a good quality surge supressor connected to home DB board, and another surge multiplug or pure sine wave inverter connected to your PC to flatten those voltage spikes/brownouts and surges.

Follow these tips from an experienced builder and your cool and clean powered PC will thank you in 10 years from now.

What? I've had a 5700x3d since it's launch, it tops out power wise around 120w, better than my 9700x does. Plus ran it on a b450 for the first 2 years, now it's on a b550
Plus initially ran it on a small 120mm cooler, now it's running on a peer assassin as I got it for a good price. Felt like swapping that over with my AK620 running my 9700x.
Granted don't use a520.

 

[Tech Guy SA]

No they work on AM4, they just need pcie4 and newer AM4 chips.

pcie 3.0 is about less than 5% probably.

like most things

 

[karnuffel]

Solid choice although i missed which CPU and platform you are on, if AM4 and lower than 5700x, the GRE might not be the right combo as the 9060xt 16gb would be more appropriate. If on AM5 the GRE is the go to although the 12gb ram will bite in a few years.

Thanks Im on AM5 with a 7800X3D.

My 1060 lasted 8 years but its time...

 

[Slckrck]

Thanks Im on AM5 with a 7800X3D.

My 1060 lasted 8 years but its time...

Oh no bruh then go GRE. But if your budget can stretch a little more the 9070 is around 4-5k more, will definitely give you 4-5 years of 1440p AAA use and eons on indie and AA titles. But the GRE is the base card for your platform since you want to run SteamOS.

 

[Lupus]

pcie 3.0 is about less than 5% probably.

like most things

1 stick of ram is 10% to 20% loss, pcie 3 is 5% loss, lower l3 cache is 10% lose

 

[longboy]

Thanks Im on AM5 with a 7800X3D.

My 1060 lasted 8 years but its time...

Yeah you're right. The 9060 XT comes with a nice 16Gb VRAM. The GRE does give you a ~20% pure raster performance lift but it only has 12Gb VRAM.

I would highly recommend going with the cheaper and more future-proof 9060 XT. GRE is around R700-R1000 more expensive for that fatser raster and less video memory. It's aimed at a very specific niche.

Sapphite Pulse or Gaming OC are my go-to's. They're R9499 and R9799 at the moment at Wootware. Personally I'd go with the Sapphire Pulse (I did get one, still in my nephews box and runs cool and stable).

Avoid Evetsek like the plague even if they are a few rands cheaper.