Opel Corsa fuel supply problem

The thermostat only really plays a part in colder climates and in winter and when starting.

In my early years I also thought so and have removed some of my thermostats as on long SWA trips in summer, I imagined it to have an advantage. That was until I had one trip at night in the middle of winter and the needle of the temp gauge of my Passat Mk1 didn't even move and the heater in the car was totally ineffective.
I also removed the temp control of the air inlet to the air cleaner as I thought it's unnecessary to get warm air from the manifold on cold days. On the same trip the air correction jet froze closed by an ice drop and the fuel efficiency fell dramatically so that I nearly didn't make it to Keetmanshoop that evening.
Each time we stopped to see why our fuel dropped so dramatically, I thought to have a leak in the tank, the fuel usage improved for a short while after the stop. I later put a hessian bag in front of the radiator to solve the problem.
I had a fuel flow meter installed and thus could see fuel usage in real time.
 
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In my early years I also thought so and have removed some of my thermostats as on long SWA trips in summer I imagined it to have an advantage. That was until I had one trip at night in the middle of winter and the needle of the temp gauge of my Passat Mk1 didn't even move and the heater in the car was totally ineffective.
That is so. My 4 x 4 starts shutting down when the outside temperature drops below 3 deg C. The heater cuts out, air circulation in the car cuts out, aircon stops working. But let's be honest not many people travel late at night in winter in the colder parts of the country..
It was pretty standard on older cars designed for Europe for the thermostats to be removed. Now with all the damn electronics around, it probably is not such stood idea.
 
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I have a new filter on.car runs perfect when tank is full.its only when it's below half.i have a pirate fuel pump and gauge on.not sure if that could be the problem.
I had a 200iS a few years ago. Got a pirate fuel pump and also had a problem with it cutting out when it was just below quarter. Seems the pick up wasn't going all the way to the bottom like the original. Eventually replaced pirate part with a genuine Bosch pump and it was sorted. Why would you have a pirate gauge? Are you taking about the gauge in the gauge cluster ?
 
That is so. My 4 x 4 starts shutting down when the outside temperature drops below 3 deg C. The heater cuts out, air circulation in the car cuts out zircon stops working. But let's be honest not many people travel late at night in winter in the colder parts of the country..
It was pretty standard on older cars designed for Europe for the thermostats tone removed. Now with all the damn electronics around, it probably is not such stood idea.

It's definitely most important in colder climates but even with our mild weather I prefer to have it so the engine can get to operating temp quicker and after that to have a constant coolant temperature.

Although this winter in JHB isn't particularly cold my Corsa doesn't reach any kind of coolant temperature in the morning no matter how I drive the needle never comes up which annoys me meh.
 
I have a new filter on.car runs perfect when tank is full.its only when it's below half.i have a pirate fuel pump and gauge on.not sure if that could be the problem.

Did you replace the whole fuel pump enclosure (the big plastic thing it sits in) or did you just replace he pump?

Also how do you have a pirate gauge? The fuel gauge is not a replaceable part of the instrument cluster?
 
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Heres the replacement pump for Corsa Lite 2006 .. old original using Bosch Model 684 3bar 12volt in tank fuel pump.
Access under back seat.
Time to replace : 1 hr
Tools : flat screwdriver , a hammer , side cutter.
There will be dirt in the tank which will form inside the pump bowl. It is difficult to remove but you should be able to think up an extraction method.
I added in 1 ltr ,2x500mls bottles of injector cleaner and replaced all the pump components.
You will remove the original hose clamps using the side cutters , and replace with new hose clamps.. you will need just 3 clamps.. 2 to fit on the exit and return pipes located on the top of the pump lid and one clamp that connects from under lid to fuel pump.
Mid way through it got very difficult as this is a two door hatch ( small ) and i got the urge to smoke.
There was also a need to replace the fuel filter which cost R75 .. within the engine bay on the fuel line rail is the fuel pressure regulator. It has a vaccum pipe that connects to your mas located on your firewall.
You will find it has a U shaped clip around it.. stainless steel part to the left off the engine bay.. pop this off with a screw driver.
Then using a cloth and a pliers.. pull on the nozel forward and extract the head part of the pressure regulator.
These rarely go.. but.. you will find the siv almost clogged with dirt.
Clean.. replace.
Its always a good idea to blow your line from tank to rail with this regulator off.
Gets any gunk out.
Be safe around Petrol!!
Also noting that your entire fuel system is dictated by your management system.. and your fuel relay should be checked.
Its cost R100.
The relay if working should click when ignition on and click when ignition off.. simultaneously turning on the pump and off.
This little relay has diodes etc and may do all the clicking but could be faulty.. change it if your pocket allows.
This relay further sends vital info to your coil pack.. it also sends info to the fuel rail / injection system , so its an important replacement.. i changed the 6 pin relay located to the right of the accelerator pedal behind the plastic kick plate / side post.
Perhaps my worst part of my drive came when i test drove and it pinked here there.. and there i was thinking oh my f_ck what now.
About 15km later after pushing past all that stuttering etc.. and now i am about 30/40 km from home.. on a wing & a prayer.. thinking.. not a chance on hell will i break down.
I would have assumed it must have been just air pockets.. slowly but surely it all went away.
I got smooth changing between gears.. no jerking or sputtering.. i had come off the N2 and as i began rendering my drive down.. the engine seemed to be settled in very nicely.
Going forth.. i will be using one garage to fill up..where on earth did all that black dirt in my tank come from?
Hence!
While searching fuel pumps.. i discovered a little story on the net which comes from a reputable site rendering useful INFORMATION and they reckon that fuel pumps these days need to be treated like any other service item , and should be checked around 50'000km. Gone are the days where fuel pumps never gave way. But back in the day fuel pumps were mechanical fitting on either the crank or cam of an engine.
 
The thermostat only really plays a part in colder climates and in winter and when starting.
Thanks .. this is a particular car .. its opel .. it has a three piece engine !!
Cam box
Cylinder head
Block and generates huge amounts of heat that is why the manufacturer states the use of the BPR5EY spark plugs.. these are resistor plugs but for extreme heat / higher conditions .. so.. the removal of the thermo stat particularly for and on opels can be a huge advantage.
I would perhaps need to speak to an old school mechie and get his opinion. This is an old school thing!
I agree on the winter thing.. temp controls water pressure.. thermo opens.. releases water.. as circulation develops a standard pressure which is regulated and controlled is maintained by the water pump.. but.. i think i will need to experiment this on the corsa.. 20 years ago as a 21 yr old with a hand down kaddet 1.3.. i had done this.. but cannot remember much after that. The car aged and got sold.. i cannot readily remember bursting water pipes and radiators or heating.. i think the thermo stat needs to f_cking go.. opels run hot as hell!
 
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Here with a simple Big 3 power upgrade.
Cost R200
Assists in maintaining a stable supply of current across your electrical system especially for cars with comp boxes and electronic distribution etc.
This upgrade must include renewing your alternator regulator. Its separate cost between R75 - R150
This electronic device fits on the side of the alternator and regulates the voltage to a standard amount ie 14.4volts ( most alternators ) and then transferes this power to charge your battery.
Along the power cable i ran direct from alternator to battery.. i added in an anl 60amp fuse to maintain spiking.
This matches up with the 55amp size 628 calcium battery ive installed.

If you have added an audio system or fog lamps etc then this is a great helper.
I usually get a year and a half longer battery life than my other car which does not have the big3 due to its warranty.
Ah see that might be the problem.as I am not sure.i might have to get the original one and see.thanks.
Perhaps change fuel relay.
The fuel level control unit and the relay work hand in hand with the pump and messages the computer box
View attachment 890460

After much mayhem.. replacing fuel pumps and relay it turns out my inner pulley had turned. Causing timing to move out.
On inspection from outside you cannot see the keyway. You will have to remove the outter pulley aka balancing wheel and check. While down there i changed the crank sensor and oil pressure switch.. all together this costs around R500.00
Pulley 200
Crank Sensor R200
Oil switch R100
Fuel pump (bosch 684 replacement) R250
Leads R150
Coil Pack R550
New Resistor Plugs R160
New V belts x2 R350

The corsa seemingly eats spark plugs.. if you put in non resistor plugs.. so its always a good idea to go with recommended plugs. Bad or incorrect plugs can cause your coil pack to fail.

I also cut out the Cat converter as this causes too much heat causing the starter to crack and the manifold.

Oil was a std SAE40
Brake pads were std at R250
wheel bearings were also replaced both ends.. i got STC for R140 each.. pressing was R100 each.

Currently i am getting around 11 km to a litre.
These cars are fitted with various different computer boxes.. THESE UNITS DO NOT BREAK. BEWARE OF BEING CARRIED AWAY BY UNNECESSARY DIAGNOSTIC TESTS.
in most of my issues.. an ODB2 machine could not find any faults. But ran a scan wasting me R350 each time.

I must add ,
I argued about the aftermarket replacement pump i bought for R250 vs original at R1380 best price and i was told that the replacement pumps are decent calibrated pumps , so if its sold as a 3 bar pump.. its a 3 bar bar pump.. unless theres a manufacturing issue.
I was further told that the brand i was using that was almost available at all spare shops in and around the durban CBD were being used in the Quantum Taxis.. same brand.. same bar.. just different model.
And on our roads taxis operate from 5am to 10pm. Theyve had no comebacks.
I used the Vosso 3 bar 12 volt continuous flow pump.
 
Its a shame that grown men retort to such insult which is baseless and warrants no use on this site.
My information is useful to someone who would need the help.
I would suppose that you two are also women bashers?? Coz you seem to take a swipe at the public on public platforms!
Grow up!!
 
Its a shame that grown men retort to such insult which is baseless and warrants no use on this site.
My information is useful to someone who would need the help.
I would suppose that you two are also women bashers?? Coz you seem to take a swipe at the public on public platforms!
Grow up!!
Were they referring to you? I was slightly confused because I do agree that your information is useful.

What they have done is as childish as you going off at me for no apparent reason the other time in this very thread while we were seemingly having a civil discussion.

Looks like a taste of your own medicine is not too nice ne?
 
Its a shame that grown men retort to such insult which is baseless and warrants no use on this site.
My information is useful to someone who would need the help.
I would suppose that you two are also women bashers?? Coz you seem to take a swipe at the public on public platforms!
Grow up!!

Thanks, I am grown-up but on my way out at 72 unfortunately.

A person who needs the forum to help sort out a fuel starvation and other funny problems wants to lecture us with child play tips.... better you yourself grow up and get down from your high trojan horse before insulting other people who were commenting on your posts.
 
Assists in maintaining a stable supply of current across your electrical system especially for cars with comp boxes and electronic distribution etc.
This upgrade must include renewing your alternator regulator. Its separate cost between R75 - R150
This electronic device fits on the side of the alternator and regulates the voltage to a standard amount ie 14.4volts ( most alternators ) and then transferes this power to charge your battery.
Along the power cable i ran direct from alternator to battery.. i added in an anl 60amp fuse to maintain spiking.
This matches up with the 55amp size 628 calcium battery ive installed.
Ok.. Can you please explain what "spiking" is and how a fuse "maintains" it?
 
Howzit guys I'm having a fuel issue, injectors have pulse on positive supply, fuel pump primes, it has fuel pressure, there is spark. Vehicle starts if you add fuel to the air filter, the spanner light does not flash when cranking so I'm sure the transponder is fine, read out the faults on LAUNCH picked up fuel relay low voltage, replaced the relays still no luck, replaced all injectors any ideas
 
Howzit guys I'm having a fuel issue, injectors have pulse on positive supply, fuel pump primes, it has fuel pressure, there is spark. Vehicle starts if you add fuel to the air filter, the spanner light does not flash when cranking so I'm sure the transponder is fine, read out the faults on LAUNCH picked up fuel relay low voltage, replaced the relays still no luck, replaced all injectors any ideas

Sounds like a wiring issue, battery and alternator good?
 
Howzit guys I'm having a fuel issue, injectors have pulse on positive supply, fuel pump primes, it has fuel pressure, there is spark. Vehicle starts if you add fuel to the air filter, the spanner light does not flash when cranking so I'm sure the transponder is fine, read out the faults on LAUNCH picked up fuel relay low voltage, replaced the relays still no luck, replaced all injectors any ideas
Do you have an aftermarket anti hijack system fitted?
 
In my early years I also thought so and have removed some of my thermostats as on long SWA trips in summer, I imagined it to have an advantage. That was until I had one trip at night in the middle of winter and the needle of the temp gauge of my Passat Mk1 didn't even move and the heater in the car was totally ineffective.
I also removed the temp control of the air inlet to the air cleaner as I thought it's unnecessary to get warm air from the manifold on cold days. On the same trip the air correction jet froze closed by an ice drop and the fuel efficiency fell dramatically so that I nearly didn't make it to Keetmanshoop that evening.
Each time we stopped to see why our fuel dropped so dramatically, I thought to have a leak in the tank, the fuel usage improved for a short while after the stop. I later put a hessian bag in front of the radiator to solve the problem.
I had a fuel flow meter installed and thus could see fuel usage in real time.

Please check the below link, someone had the same problem.

 
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