This was my attempt from last night, not as sharp as some of the others.
I took it at 300mm , 100 ISO, f/5.6 , 1/320 on my Canon EOS 1100D...
Is it due to the lower pixel ratio than the more upmarket DSLR`s or did i do someting wrong ???
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Super Moon Tonight
- Thread starter APoc184
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This was my attempt from last night, not as sharp as some of the others.
I took it at 300mm , 100 ISO, f/5.6 , 1/320 on my Canon EOS 1100D...
Is it due to the lower pixel ratio than the more upmarket DSLR`s or did i do someting wrong ???
Elimentals
Honorary Master
This was my attempt from last night, not as sharp as some of the others.
I took it at 300mm , 100 ISO, f/5.6 , 1/320 on my Canon EOS 1100D...
Is it due to the lower pixel ratio than the more upmarket DSLR`s or did i do someting wrong ???
From my side you did great, not that I am a pro or anything, but as a fellow noob I know how hard it is to get a decent shot like the pro's in here.
Oh and my 450D with 300mm is just about the same gear, only thing where I had a little help was with focus, I used an Android tablet with DSLR Controller via USB to focus
This was my attempt from last night, not as sharp as some of the others.
I took it at 300mm , 100 ISO, f/5.6 , 1/320 on my Canon EOS 1100D...
Is it due to the lower pixel ratio than the more upmarket DSLR`s or did i do someting wrong ???
Hi
I'm not a pro, but in my humble experience shooting the moon I can recommend you try the following:
You should try shooting at higher f-stops.
The higher the aperture the more depth of field you will have.
You should get better detail on the moon.
I also have a 1100D and I believe you can push it up to f/22 with a 300mm lens.
Just remember that increasing the aperture you will get less light, so you need to compensate with either decreasing your shutter speed or shooting at higher iso's.
Since you have to shoot fast, because the moon is moving (your 1/320 seems to be fine), you are only left with shooting at a higher iso. (maybe 200 or 400).
Also try focusing manually with the lens then switching the display on at the back of your camera.
There you can zoom into your picture I believe up to 10x to double check that you are 100% in focus.
Hope this helps you or someone to some extend.
Enjoy.
Elimentals
Honorary Master
Your calculation is off, just a tad.
The moon was 356 955 KM's on May the 5th, also depending if you stay next to the coast or in JHB as you may have to add a Km or 2
Hi
Maybe you can enlighten me if my understanding is wrong, but...
According to Wikipedia, which can be found here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field
Looking at the descriptions and pictures provided under the following headings:
1.Effect of lens aperture
2.Limited DOF: selective focus
It seems to follow my understanding of how the aperture works.
I have also played a lot with macro photography and DOF.
By shooting on f/1 you are going to have a very shallow depth of field in my experience, which means the background will be out of focus.
Are you saying that it depends on your subject, because the moon isn't going to be considered the background in this case, but rather the foreground?
Please explain rather than copying some picture as proof, because anyone can edit a picture.
What I'm saying is the distance to the subject is critical when calculating the DoF - given the moon was 356 955 KM (nod to Elimentals) away the dof for a 1000mm lens at f/1 would have extended from 50km to infinity. Stopping down would have made little difference in that regard.
You're more than welcome to use a DoF calculator of your choice - the one I used is located http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
What stopping down might help with is overall sharpness because lenses are rarely at their sharpest wide open or stopped down all the way. Generally there is a sweet spot but this depends on the lens itself. The more you stop down the more you run the chance of falling prey to diffraction.
You're more than welcome to use a DoF calculator of your choice - the one I used is located http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
What stopping down might help with is overall sharpness because lenses are rarely at their sharpest wide open or stopped down all the way. Generally there is a sweet spot but this depends on the lens itself. The more you stop down the more you run the chance of falling prey to diffraction.
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Thanks for the feedback. Some of it's still over my head.
I usually play around with the f-stop to get the right amount of light based on the light meter in the view finder.
I decide on my ISO and shutter speed up front.
I adjust shutter speed for wanted effect to compensate movement (blur or sharp) and ISO only if I don't have enough light, but trying to keep it low to avoid noise.
I will have to go and shoot the moon at my lowest and highest aperture to see what the effect is.
Thanks for the link, however I would prefer to understand how it works, which will enable me to adjust in the field.
Based on the highlighted portion:
This is what I tried to communicate by shooting at a higher aperture, if my understanding is correct.
Therefore showing the calculator for a 1000mm lens at f/1 doesn't make sense to me.
Because f/1 is opened all the way in my understanding.