Test drive: New Audi A3

[SauRoNZA]

It's not the product code they list in the manual, it's the specification for the oil. You'll find the 50x.xx code listed on the back of the bottle if it is the correct spec.

http://www.oilspecifications.org/volkswagen.php

Maybe I'm too old school for it but in my mind a specification for oil reads as 5w30 or 20w50 or whatever viscosity you require, not some weird ass code that you need to go looking for on the back of the bottle.

Instead now they use a different code from each manufacturer which simply makes it confusing. Nowhere in my manual does it give the actual oil rating but instead uses their own VW code for it.

 

[SauRoNZA]

For the guys fighting against Turbo technology I'm very sorry for you because the treehuggers and hippies have made it the way of the future.

Very soon it will be impossible for them to build green efficiency compliant cars without using forced induction.


I like a normally aspirated V8 as much as the next oke, but it's not going to be around for long. Or you are going to get taxed to hell and back on it.

 

[Naks]

Maybe I'm too old school for it but in my mind a specification for oil reads as 5w30 or 20w50 or whatever viscosity you require, not some weird ass code that you need to go looking for on the back of the bottle. Instead now they use a different code from each manufacturer which simply makes it confusing. Nowhere in my manual does it give the actual oil rating but instead uses their own VW code for it.

You are too old school and you are going to end up with big repair bills.

These days, manufacturers team up with oil companies when designing engines - hence why you should always stick to the manufacturer's specs when buying oil. If VAG says 505.01, 505.01 is what should go in, not just bog standard 5w30.

It's not rocket science, just do your homework. #smh

 

[kripstoe]

Maybe I'm too old school for it but in my mind a specification for oil reads as 5w30 or 20w50 or whatever viscosity you require, not some weird ass code that you need to go looking for on the back of the bottle.

Instead now they use a different code from each manufacturer which simply makes it confusing. Nowhere in my manual does it give the actual oil rating but instead uses their own VW code for it.

I don't see the issue. Be it 505.01 or 504 I've never had an issue finding oil. Using the code makes it even simple because you don't have to know the SAE viscosity.

 

[grim]

Maybe I'm too old school for it but in my mind a specification for oil reads as 5w30 or 20w50 or whatever viscosity you require, not some weird ass code that you need to go looking for on the back of the bottle.

Instead now they use a different code from each manufacturer which simply makes it confusing. Nowhere in my manual does it give the actual oil rating but instead uses their own VW code for it.

The 5w30, 20w50 only refers to the viscosity of the oil and not any other properties of the oil.

With modern cars relying more and more on high grade oil to operate efficiently and reliably it's worth it to look if that tin of oil your pouring into your engine isn't going to cost you a lot more when it stuffs sensors or worse the engine.

Forced induction (turbos/superchargers) is a response to CAFE standards/quest for better fuel efficiency. VAG and others are using it more frequently as a result.

VWs has never been a brand based on reliability (jetta) as opposed to Japanese. If you need a reliable turbo, look at a Subaru.

Also, motorplans are designed to make money; I don't understand why they are so popular in SA

Lol, wut?

If you want to keep VWSA on your payroll thats your problem. I try to pay my cars off as fast as possible and keep them until they become unreliable. That is how you save money which can be better applied to proper investments.

Yes - and your point it? I have a car with over 200,000km and I'm quite happy with it. Turbo needs to become more reliable, if that means operating at lower pressure then so be it. The vast majority of the market is not interested in performance cars, they want reliable cars.

I'll happily keep paying them every month, it's worth it. I've owned cars with over 200 000km on the clock, one even had 340 000km on it. But I like new toys, like they say, men never grow up the toys just get more expensive.

The days of N/A engines are getting shorter and shorter, the advantages of small capacity forced induction engines far outweigh the disadvantages. I'll put money on it that within two generations of most current car models will only be available with forced induction engines.

Even your beloved Opel has mostly moved to forced induction engines.

 

[Paul_S]

I'll happily keep paying them every month, it's worth it. I've owned cars with over 200 000km on the clock, one even had 340 000km on it. But I like new toys, like they say, men never grow up the toys just get more expensive.

That's you. There are plenty of people who can't afford to splash out on a new car every few years so expecting 200 000+ trouble free, kilo meters is essential.

 

[Rouxenator]

I'll happily keep paying them every month, it's worth it. I've owned cars with over 200 000km on the clock, one even had 340 000km on it. But I like new toys, like they say, men never grow up the toys just get more expensive.

You know that all the money you are giving them is an expense, a dead loss, not an investment? I suppose if you have the money then you might as well, just a pity you are spending it on such a classless and tasteless brand

I did more than once admit that all powertrains seem to be going with forced induction as it is a more efficient system, however there are low pressure blowers like in the 2.5 D4D and C180K that will last much longer that the ones in performance models. I am quite sure that the new EcoBoost technology from Ford will not result in premature engine failure when compared with the previous generation models.

 

[kripstoe]

You know that all the money you are giving them is an expense, a dead loss, not an investment? I suppose if you have the money then you might as well, just a pity you are spending it on such a classless and tasteless brand

I did more than once admit that all powertrains seem to be going with forced induction as it is a more efficient system, however there are low pressure blowers like in the 2.5 D4D and C180K that will last much longer that the ones in performance models. I am quite sure that the new EcoBoost technology from Ford will not result in premature engine failure when compared with the previous generation models.

Different topic. Loss vs investment. Many hobbies are just that, a dead loss. You going to start knocking people for their hobbies too? That gadget you bought not too long ago is also a dead loss and you could have invested the money towards your retirement.

I hear you with regard to performance models etc, but if I count the turbo cars in my family (some low pressure and others performance) and issues with regards to turbos etc, I get to 0. Maybe it's just luck, maybe it's because we enjoy motoring and take care of it accordingly. Sure, a large portion of the motoring public don't care about maintenance etc, just like many people preferred sticking to horse drawn carriages some decades ago.

 

[Gaz{M}]

I have no trouble buying Audi spec oil at Audi or VW dealerships from the Parts shop. And it isn't even that expensive at 60 odd bucks a litre. You will probably not find it at hardware or car supply store as they usually only stock the normal 5W30 oils and not the special VW or BMW approved versions. If you are using multiple litres of oil between services, then perhaps you should book your car in for an inspection. I have a litre in my boot permanently and top-up about 1 litre per 15 000km on a 2.0TFSI.

 

[RaptorSA]

Also, motorplans are designed to make money; I don't understand why they are so popular in SA

I think they might be a response to how far the technology has come in recent years and how bloody expensive it is t fix some cars these days (full part replacement instead of fixing problems and having to deal with all the complexities).

That being said, I don't regard it as a plus point at all, hence my preference for older vehicles, or modern vehicles with simpler designs eg. a good, fun, well balanced vehicle as opposed to a gadget cluttered spec fortress where you end up using like 10% of the features provided. Japanese FTW.
Anyway, each to his own.

 

[SauRoNZA]

I don't see the issue. Be it 505.01 or 504 I've never had an issue finding oil. Using the code makes it even simple because you don't have to know the SAE viscosity.

You are too old school and you are going to end up with big repair bills.

These days, manufacturers team up with oil companies when designing engines - hence why you should always stick to the manufacturer's specs when buying oil. If VAG says 505.01, 505.01 is what should go in, not just bog standard 5w30.

It's not rocket science, just do your homework. #smh

Sorry I think it came out a little wrong.

I didn't mean that I don't follow the codes or that I put just anything in my car based on whether or not the pictures are pretty.

My car gets only fully synthetic oil to the exact specification, my concern was really just that when I first opened the manual for my car it was really hard for me as a petrolhead to find any decent information. In fact if I recall correctly it doesn't even tell you to check the oil and simply tells you to stick to regular maintenance intervals where it will all be covered.

Considering my car is pretty damn heavy on oil it would have run completely dry long before it got to it's next service.


My worry in this regard is that "normal" people who don't even know if there car has a Turbo or not would even bother figuring out the correct oil in the first place and just dump anything in there...if they bothered checking it at all.

 

[SauRoNZA]

I have no trouble buying Audi spec oil at Audi or VW dealerships from the Parts shop. And it isn't even that expensive at 60 odd bucks a litre. You will probably not find it at hardware or car supply store as they usually only stock the normal 5W30 oils and not the special VW or BMW approved versions. If you are using multiple litres of oil between services, then perhaps you should book your car in for an inspection. I have a litre in my boot permanently and top-up about 1 litre per 15 000km on a 2.0TFSI.

You can buy them at Makro/Builders or any other parts shop to the exact specification. No need to go to the dealership for oil.

I use about 1 litre per 5000km and this is deemed completely normal after I also initially freaked out about it seeming a little bit crazy.

A friend of mine with an Audi A4 1.8T uses about double that and also took it in for inspection and they simply told him it's within spec.

 

[bboy]

I've never been able to walk into any of my autozones,makros, midas's etc and actually find the VW 504.00 or whatever it is that my audi takes

 

[grim]

I've never been able to walk into any of my autozones,makros, midas's etc and actually find the VW 504.00 or whatever it is that my audi takes

They should stock it, will ask my step dad today if they stock it and what the brand name is.

 

[RogueTr00per]

When i wanted to buy oil for my 2010 A3 1.8T from VW/Audi, they seemed to prefer me going in to top up my oil (on motor plan). I suppose this is because they get to charge VW/Audi SA for topping up the oil?

Prior to my last service I filled in a can of oil from the petrol station when the engine light came on. I didn't realise the oil had to be so specific. Anyways, is there likely to have been any damage? I generally drive pretty chilled, but i suppose that is a subjective topic.

 

[Naks]

Prior to my last service I filled in a can of oil from the petrol station when the engine light came on. I didn't realise the oil had to be so specific. Anyways, is there likely to have been any damage? I generally drive pretty chilled, but i suppose that is a subjective topic.

#smh

Avoid putting in oil from petrol stations, unless you are running on dry. Chances are, your engine is warmed up and the oil level will appear lower, not to mention the fact that it is unlikely that they stock the right spec for your car.

Always measure oil level when the engine is cold, preferably overnight.

 

[kripstoe]

Prior to my last service I filled in a can of oil from the petrol station when the engine light came on. I didn't realise the oil had to be so specific. Anyways, is there likely to have been any damage? I generally drive pretty chilled, but i suppose that is a subjective topic.

I'd probably keep this to myself if there's damage. The owners manual is there for a reason.

 

[RogueTr00per]

Originally Posted by ryan411
Prior to my last service I filled in a can of oil from the petrol station when the engine light came on. I didn't realise the oil had to be so specific. Anyways, is there likely to have been any damage? I generally drive pretty chilled, but i suppose that is a subjective topic.

I'd probably keep this to myself if there's damage. The owners manual is there for a reason.

Yip, will do :$ ... So after the last service I had any remnants of the petrol station oil would be flushed out?

 

[Naks]

Yip, will do :$ ... So after the last service I had any remnants of the petrol station oil would be flushed out?

Yep. Look, a little bit of top-up oil from the petrol station will not break your engine.

Rather, buy a 1L of the correct oil from your stealer and keep it in the boot in a Ziploc bag, just in case you need to top up.

 

[LoneWolf]

The one I drove was the 1.4 TFSi manual. Compared to my current 2.0 TDi DSG, performance is actually quite good, obviously it doesn't have the sheer grunt of the TDi.

Prices:

1.2T FSI S - 77kW manual - R267 000

1.4T FSI S - 90kW manual - R274 500
1.4T FSI S - 90kW S tronic - R291 500

1.6 TDI S - 77kW S tronic - R302 500

1.8T FSI SE - 132kW manual - R305 000
1.8T FSI SE - 132kW S tronic - R322 000
1.8T FSI SE quattro - 132kW S tronic - R351 500

i saw a 2.0TFSI Quattro at Walmer Park on display the other day... so whats the price on that?