The Audi Thread

[PhireSide]

Quite surprised that, on the open road, I can get the consumption on the 2.0T down to around 5.5 - 6.5l/100km if I set the CC to 120kph with the AC running. It's quite a bit lower than my i30, which really attenuates how badly sized the 1.6 N/A motor is for the size/weight of the car. The engine struggles at speed and fuel economy suffers as a result.

But please don't ask me for my in-town consumption. The numbers are ugly, really ugly

 

[Gtx Gaming]

Quite surprised that, on the open road, I can get the consumption on the 2.0T down to around 5.5 - 6.5l/100km if I set the CC to 120kph with the AC running. It's quite a bit lower than my i30, which really attenuates how badly sized the 1.6 N/A motor is for the size/weight of the car. The engine struggles at speed and fuel economy suffers as a result.

But please don't ask me for my in-town consumption. The numbers are ugly, really ugly

Enjoy it, when it is going for stage 2 and downpipe? lol

 

[PhireSide]

Enjoy it, when it is going for stage 2 and downpipe? lol

Ha! The cat is clogged so that will be the first to go. A stg1 takes it to around 195kW/370Nm which is super tempting for around R5k, but I first need to sort out a few maintenance issues on it before I start fiddling with the performance.

I need to, as a matter of urgency, change the ATF and do an oil change on it and then I could look at something like a stage 1 tune. When you go stage 2, you need to upgrade both fuel pumps and a few other things, which can add up quick and might be a bit rich for my current budget

 

[PhireSide]

Just dropped off the B7 for a downpipe install at BestDrive. Initially, I was just going to have them cut open and gut the cat but they said they would replace it with a stainless steel 2.5" downpipe for R1800 fitted, which was hard to say no to

 

[Mosgi]

Quite surprised that, on the open road, I can get the consumption on the 2.0T down to around 5.5 - 6.5l/100km if I set the CC to 120kph with the AC running. It's quite a bit lower than my i30, which really attenuates how badly sized the 1.6 N/A motor is for the size/weight of the car. The engine struggles at speed and fuel economy suffers as a result.

But please don't ask me for my in-town consumption. The numbers are ugly, really ugly

Have been hypermiling lately partially thanks to the fuel price. This is the best I’ve seen on the old Q7.

Once dropped into 3.9l from Midrand to Lynwood on my old 2.0T but that had a big turbo.

 

[PhireSide]

Have been hypermiling lately partially thanks to the fuel price. This is the best I’ve seen on the old Q7.

Once dropped into 3.9l from Midrand to Lynwood on my old 2.0T but that had a big turbo.

Those are some good numbers. Those V6 diesels are pretty frugal, all things considered. And the Q7 isn't light, either

I'd like to see how low I can get my figures going down Cape Road at 60kph. The best I've gotten was around 3.1l/100km with the Hyundai. I'm not sure if the Avant will be able to match that, as the CVT box keeps the revs at around 1500 whether you are doing 40 or 80. Wind resistance will be a bigger factor at those engine revs. Only at speeds above 100 do the revs slowly climb and settle at around 2200 at 120kph as measured.

Edit: I filled up today and my consumption for my first tank was...6.2. Unfortunately, not liters per hundred kilometers but kilometers per liter. That being said, I had a massive fuel leak when I received the car. The fuel pump ring wasn't secure and it was pissing fuel out from under the rear seat bench area. There was also a fuel line in the engine bay that was leaking which I've since fixed. So, I'm hoping the economy will improve with this tankful.

Driving sedately, I managed to get around 11km per l on the way home which is more or less what I get with my Hyundai. It is very hard to stay off the boost though, and with the downpipe fitted, it's hard not to keep the go-pedal planted on the floor

 

[Mosgi]

Those are some good numbers. Those V6 diesels are pretty frugal, all things considered. And the Q7 isn't light, either

I'd like to see how low I can get my figures going down Cape Road at 60kph. The best I've gotten was around 3.1l/100km with the Hyundai. I'm not sure if the Avant will be able to match that, as the CVT box keeps the revs at around 1500 whether you are doing 40 or 80. Wind resistance will be a bigger factor at those engine revs. Only at speeds above 100 do the revs slowly climb and settle at around 2200 at 120kph as measured.

Edit: I filled up today and my consumption for my first tank was...6.2. Unfortunately, not liters per hundred kilometers but kilometers per liter. That being said, I had a massive fuel leak when I received the car. The fuel pump ring wasn't secure and it was pissing fuel out from under the rear seat bench area. There was also a fuel line in the engine bay that was leaking which I've since fixed. So, I'm hoping the economy will improve with this tankful.

Driving sedately, I managed to get around 11km per l on the way home which is more or less what I get with my Hyundai. It is very hard to stay off the boost though, and with the downpipe fitted, it's hard not to keep the go-pedal planted on the floor

Yeah. Working out the leak will definitely help. The Downpipe really transforms the car a lot more than one would think or expect.

Those revels aren’t too bad at highway speed, ac to ally wonder what mine were at 120kph (I could never stick to the speed limit though)

On a CPT drive I can’t imagine staying at that speed, unless I had people in the car which would also negatively impact performance.

 

[PhireSide]

Since Audi decided to only fit one cupholder in the entire interior of the B7 A4, I felt I needed to improvise:



It's meant to fit in this section of the centre console. Some versions of the A4 came with cup holders here instead, but I don't think the SA-bound cars had them:

 

[zerocool2009]

I need help related to hardware replacement. Does anyone know someone who can do Audi coding after parts was replaced ? To sync the car and new parts up

 

[PhireSide]

I need help related to hardware replacement. Does anyone know someone who can do Audi coding after parts was replaced ? To sync the car and new parts up

What parts have you replaced? If you have access to a VCDS cable you might be able to code it yourself. Otherwise, any independent VAG specialist should have the required tools to make it work.

I had to go through the same ordeal on my Avant when I was swapping out modules when I was busy diagnosing a bad earth connection. Somehow I lost opening the sunroof with the key fob in the process which I must still code, but it can definitely be done, on the older vehicles at least.

 

[zerocool2009]

What parts have you replaced? If you have access to a VCDS cable you might be able to code it yourself. Otherwise, any independent VAG specialist should have the required tools to make it work.

I had to go through the same ordeal on my Avant when I was swapping out modules when I was busy diagnosing a bad earth connection. Somehow I lost opening the sunroof with the key fob in the process which I must still code, but it can definitely be done, on the older vehicles at least.

I havent replaced the parts yet. My Audi specialist said for the ABS pump, the car needs to be resynced, and it isnt the VAG leg. Its way more involved. If I replace the part now, the car wont start even.

Audi charges me an arm and leg, so I am weighing options up. Think my biggest concern now is the resycning

 

[PhireSide]

I havent replaced the parts yet. My Audi specialist said for the ABS pump, the car needs to be resynced, and it isnt the VAG leg. Its way more involved. If I replace the part now, the car wont start even.

Audi charges me an arm and leg, so I am weighing options up. Think my biggest concern now is the resycning

You have a Q5 right?

Maybe this an set you on the right path (I didn't read it, but it seems like these folks mention ABS pump coding on a Q5).

Coding of ABS pump, Electric Steering on AUDI Q5 s-line 2012

Dears, I have installed new ABS pump and steering on my Q5 but I cant access where to code the new items. breaks and steering is perfectly functioning , car runs fine for 1000km so far but all dashboards lights are ON! is there a service code required ? how can I proceed with the coding of new...

forums.ross-tech.com

 

[TheChamp]

I love Audi but these are some of the things I hate about them, looks like they went out of their way to make the life of an owner extremely difficult, unless you bow before them and let them have their way with you.

 

[PhireSide]

I love Audi but these are some of the things I hate about them, looks like they went out of their way to make the life of an owner extremely difficult, unless you bow before them and let them have their way with you.

When you say 'bow before them', you mean 'bend over', right?

I find that if you are handy with a spanner (a 'moerjoggie', as my dad would say) and have access to VCDS, then you can do quite a bit on the older cars. The issue is that some systems are definitely not thought out well (high pressure fuel pump cam followers that wear through, plastic bits on the cooling system, complicated PCV systems) and without a service manual and VCDS, you will generally have a hard time fixing things on your own.

But from what I hear, if you keep on top of routine maintenance and address issues as and when they appear, they are solid cars, for the most part. The benefit is that, because they share parts with VW, you have a great variety of spares available and a LOT of spares from wrecked cars as well. The internet is also full of resources and message boards, so community support definitely helps in that sense.

 

[zerocool2009]

I have a motto not everything lasts forever. The audi that I have drives (just randomly it svares me, lol). The abs is disabled but the normal breaks wont fail.

I think the germans went out of their way to sync cars (as in make it hard to just replace parts)

Chatting to some firms today, syncing car-parts sounds like a mission, but its do-able (not via audi), and it isnt the VAG system

 

[zerocool2009]

You have a Q5 right?

Maybe this an set you on the right path (I didn't read it, but it seems like these folks mention ABS pump coding on a Q5).

Coding of ABS pump, Electric Steering on AUDI Q5 s-line 2012

Dears, I have installed new ABS pump and steering on my Q5 but I cant access where to code the new items. breaks and steering is perfectly functioning , car runs fine for 1000km so far but all dashboards lights are ON! is there a service code required ? how can I proceed with the coding of new...

forums.ross-tech.com

Q7

 

[PhireSide]

I have a motto not everything lasts forever. The audi that I have drives (just randomly it svares me, lol). The abs is disabled but the normal breaks wont fail.

I think the germans went out of their way to sync cars (as in make it hard to just replace parts)

Chatting to some firms today, syncing car-parts sounds like a mission, but its do-able (not via audi), and it isnt the VAG system

I think it's a European thing. I know Merc and Volvo are also guilty of marrying parts to control modules, requiring expensive workshop equipment to rectify it.

I don't think the Asian markets have caught on just yet, but it's probably coming under the guise of 'safety'

 

[TheChamp]

I think it's a European thing. I know Merc and Volvo are also guilty of marrying parts to control modules, requiring expensive workshop equipment to rectify it.

I don't think the Asian markets have caught on just yet, but it's probably coming under the guise of 'safety'

The Asians will never betray us.

 

[zerocool2009]

After reading up, googling my errors and I pin point some things.

What is happening, when i drive, the full cluster just shuts down, as in blank, but the engine still runs. After 1 min, it comes back, and the cluster is like a christmas tree. When I shut it down and restart, its all gone.

The error pin point an voltage overcharge. So its either the voltage regulator or the alternator ! So far I am replacing the voltage regulator (as a step 1).

 

[PhireSide]

After reading up, googling my errors and I pin point some things.

What is happening, when i drive, the full cluster just shuts down, as in blank, but the engine still runs. After 1 min, it comes back, and the cluster is like a christmas tree. When I shut it down and restart, its all gone.

The error pin point an voltage overcharge. So its either the voltage regulator or the alternator ! So far I am replacing the voltage regulator (as a step 1).

I'd start with looking at the alternator as well, and go from there. Also check all your grounds and battery connections for good measure