The Audi Thread

[Gtx Gaming]

I finally got around to taking my 2010/2011 Audi A3 s-tronic 7-speed in for its gearbox service. I was referred to Friendly Motors in Goodwood. They changed the oil (R475 ex vat), mechatronic fluid (R650 ex vat) and labour was R900 (ex vat), the total came to R2328 vat inclusive. I was expecting a filter to be changed but they said for the 7-speed there's no filter to change, but if it was the 6-speed then that would have been the case plus a lot more oil required (2 grand alone for the oil). They said there weren't any issues, the gearbox works well as it should. Prior to taking it in I can't say that I noticed any issues. Hopefully I'm all good still for many more years to come.

My mileage is now 117,500km, this might have been the first ever gearbox service but in any event I was way overdue. I dont see any record of the Audi dealerships I serviced the car at having done one, though they did replace the clutch pack in September 2013, I dont know if that would have involved an s-tronic oil change.

Edit: I would recommend them based on them living up to their name and being indeed quite friendly seemingly very knowledgeable Father and son owned business and they were quite happy to show me around a couple of the gearboxes being worked on and explaining things to me, not that I absorbed it all

Hmm sounds very cheap did you phone Vagspec for a quote? They pretty much the best VW/Audi place to go to.

 

[Gtx Gaming]

Sonofabitch I don't know why VW went with the Aisin for the Touareg, the Amarok with the same 3.0 V6 TDi uses the ZF 8 speed gearbox which is used in just about every car using an 8 speed torque converter automatic, including many high performance cars.

8HP70 only good for 700nm, the V8 TDI kicks out 750nm, the 8HP90 I think was not ready at the time. Aisin gearbox is good for 800nm of torque!

 

[airborne]

Hmm sounds very cheap did you phone Vagspec for a quote? They pretty much the best VW/Audi place to go to.

I was thinking the same thing, gearbox oil is so goddam expensive, it just doesn't sound right, I could be wrong though.

 

[RogueTr00per]

Hmm sounds very cheap did you phone Vagspec for a quote? They pretty much the best VW/Audi place to go to.

Thanks, I didn't know about Vagspec, but also I am in Cpt. I can try calling them after the fact for interest sake but I am not sure what to ask for? I did call Triangle Transmission (in Bellville Cpt) last year July and they were R4.5 - R5k ex vat. Re-listening to the recording I have of the phone call it sounds like they were going to replace the internal filter, sump gasket etc... as the gent I spoke to assumed that my s-tronic service required was as per this B8.5 Audi S4 transmission service.

However, this vid on this 2009 Gold's DSG 7 Speed transmission service seems to be more in line with what was done.

Ferroli Performance Centre referred me to Friendly Motors for the s-tronic service so in the end I just bit the bullet and went with them as I'm struggling to find time during the day due to work pressures and my old man is rather ill for the last 11 months so looking after him/keeping tabs on him takes up a lot of my time or attention.

How do I determine what model my s-tronic gearbox is to more easily find a vid on Youtube to see for myself what would have been done in this gearbox service?

edit: I found this page https://www.autoevolution.com/audi/a3/
and under the section for '2008 - 2012' models I clicked on 'AUDI A3 1.8L TFSI 7AT (160 HP)' but then that page doesn't state what model my gearbox might be.

 

[Neuk_]

Thanks, I didn't know about Vagspec, but also I am in Cpt. I can try calling them after the fact for interest sake but I am not sure what to ask for? I did call Triangle Transmission (in Bellville Cpt) last year July and they were R4.5 - R5k ex vat. Re-listening to the recording I have of the phone call it sounds like they were going to replace the internal filter, sump gasket etc... as the gent I spoke to assumed that my s-tronic service required was as per this B8.5 Audi S4 transmission service.

However, this vid on this 2009 Gold's DSG 7 Speed transmission service seems to be more in line with what was done.

Ferroli Performance Centre referred me to Friendly Motors for the s-tronic service so in the end I just bit the bullet and went with them as I'm struggling to find time during the day due to work pressures and my old man is rather ill for the last 11 months so looking after him/keeping tabs on him takes up a lot of my time or attention.

How do I determine what model my s-tronic gearbox is to more easily find a vid on Youtube to see for myself what would have been done in this gearbox service?

edit: I found this page https://www.autoevolution.com/audi/a3/
and under the section for '2008 - 2012' models I clicked on 'AUDI A3 1.8L TFSI 7AT (160 HP)' but then that page doesn't state what model my gearbox might be.

There is a VagSpec in Cape Town for future work if you need...

VAG Spec Centre Cape Town – Out of warranty Vw, Audi and Seat auto service shop

VW, AUDI, & SEAT SPECIALISTS. Excellent Service at excellent prices - only quality parts sourced - - 20 000km/12 month warranty - - 5 Star rated rmi workshop -

vagspecct.co.za

 

[PhireSide]

Got around to installing the new turbo core this weekend.

Unfortunately, whoever worked on the car prior made a huge mess, so I split the work across two days so as not to rush things and make mistakes.

Lessons learnt:

Online guides and diagrams don't help if the car has been molested. I don't know how they managed to bend stainless steel hardlines so out of shape, but they did.
Buy ALL the hardware you need (studs, bolts, nuts, gaskets, washers) beforehand.
Don't assume anything. Rather spend an extra R100 beforehand getting parts than realising halfway through you are missing an exhaust stud or a mounting bracket bolt.
Have the right tools and use them. Some of the fasteners asked for surprisingly little amounts of torque.

I still have a small oil leak that I think was there prior to me replacing the core, but I'll check it out after work today. I no longer have a 007 smokescreen while driving which is great. The old core was really busted, and had loads of axial play. I also took the opportunity to install the a new PCV which was also not 100% on the old part (the check valve was missing).

 

[wingnut771]

Got around to installing the new turbo core this weekend.

Unfortunately, whoever worked on the car prior made a huge mess, so I split the work across two days so as not to rush things and make mistakes.

Lessons learnt:

Online guides and diagrams don't help if the car has been molested. I don't know how they managed to bend stainless steel hardlines so out of shape, but they did.
Buy ALL the hardware you need (studs, bolts, nuts, gaskets, washers) beforehand.
Don't assume anything. Rather spend an extra R100 beforehand getting parts than realising halfway through you are missing an exhaust stud or a mounting bracket bolt.
Have the right tools and use them. Some of the fasteners asked for surprisingly little amounts of torque.

I still have a small oil leak that I think was there prior to me replacing the core, but I'll check it out after work today. I no longer have a 007 smokescreen while driving which is great. The old core was really busted, and had loads of axial play. I also took the opportunity to install the a new PCV which was also not 100% on the old part (the check valve was missing).

Where did you get your parts?

 

[PhireSide]

Where did you get your parts?

The core I got from Mr Turbo in Durban. Was about R2500 including shipping.

The rest of the hardware from a local hardware store that had the correct grade of bolts/nuts and correct size crush washers. Cost was probably around R100 or so. The most irritating aspect was that the one exhaust stud was MIA, and I couldn't find a correct length one anywhere. I ended up taking a longer one and cutting it down with a Dremel to make the heat shield fit.

 

[wingnut771]

The core I got from Mr Turbo in Durban. Was about R2500 including shipping.

The rest of the hardware from a local hardware store that had the correct grade of bolts/nuts and correct size crush washers. Cost was probably around R100 or so. The most irritating aspect was that the one exhaust stud was MIA, and I couldn't find a correct length one anywhere. I ended up taking a longer one and cutting it down with a Dremel to make the heat shield fit.

Do you let the car idle for a while before shutting down?

 

[PhireSide]

Do you let the car idle for a while before shutting down?

Yeah, usually a minute or two. I also idle it for about 20 or so seconds when I start, just to get oil flowing across all the components.

But I've only had the car for 3000 of the 225'000 km on the odometer, so who knows what it went through with its previous owner(s).

 

[airborne]

Got around to installing the new turbo core this weekend.

Unfortunately, whoever worked on the car prior made a huge mess, so I split the work across two days so as not to rush things and make mistakes.

Lessons learnt:

Online guides and diagrams don't help if the car has been molested. I don't know how they managed to bend stainless steel hardlines so out of shape, but they did.
Buy ALL the hardware you need (studs, bolts, nuts, gaskets, washers) beforehand.
Don't assume anything. Rather spend an extra R100 beforehand getting parts than realising halfway through you are missing an exhaust stud or a mounting bracket bolt.
Have the right tools and use them. Some of the fasteners asked for surprisingly little amounts of torque.

I still have a small oil leak that I think was there prior to me replacing the core, but I'll check it out after work today. I no longer have a 007 smokescreen while driving which is great. The old core was really busted, and had loads of axial play. I also took the opportunity to install the a new PCV which was also not 100% on the old part (the check valve was missing).

If you don’t have one yet get a cordless impact driver, best thing ever when working on vehicles, they pay for themselves literally by the first job or 2.

 

[PhireSide]

If you don’t have one yet get a cordless impact driver, best thing ever when working on vehicles, they pay for themselves literally by the first job or 2.

It’s on my wishlist right after I get my leaky coolant flange sorted. I took some pics now when I had the airbox off to trace a leak - will try post them.

New core:



The improvised stud:



No cats here, officer:



As the pics foretell, the car isn’t in great shape overall BUT I’m slowly fixing what I can and it’s shaping up quite nicely.

 

[airborne]

It’s on my wishlist right after I get my leaky coolant flange sorted. I took some pics now when I had the airbox off to trace a leak - will try post them.

New core:

View attachment 1329602

The improvised stud:

View attachment 1329604

No cats here, officer:

View attachment 1329606

As the pics foretell, the car isn’t in great shape overall BUT I’m slowly fixing what I can and it’s shaping up quite nicely.

Looking good!
The Total/Incgo one is decent, well for what you pay.
It’s not the most powerful, it’ll do around 80-100nM max but that’s still good for most things. Especially handy when space is limited or the part that needs loosening can move, something which typically can be very difficult to loosen alone. Also helps prevent fasteners shearing off or rounding on the smaller stuff. It also helps reduce fatigue because loosening stuff in engine bays can put your body in weird positions that can take their toll.

 

[PhireSide]

Looking good!
The Total/Incgo one is decent, well for what you pay.
It’s not the most powerful, it’ll do around 80-100nM max but that’s still good for most things. Especially handy when space is limited or the part that needs loosening can move, something which typically can be very difficult to loosen alone. Also helps prevent fasteners shearing off or rounding on the smaller stuff. It also helps reduce fatigue because loosening stuff in engine bays can put your body in weird positions that can take their toll.

Thanks!

I actually have the Ingco one in my cart because I already have their impact drill, angle grinder and circular saw so expanding with their range makes the most sense.

I gave my spare battery to my old man and got him the reciprocating saw, so one of these days I'll also get me the 4.0Ah battery for the bigger jobs.

But an impact driver/wrench is definitely on the cards soon, along with the multitool and maybe the blower/vac as well.

And you can say that again WRT the awkward positions...I feel like I am going to have a stiff neck for days. If they weren't so expensive, a mid-rise lift would definitely be a great help, especially since they can be made to fit in most garages if you don't have clearance for a two or four-post lift.

 

[airborne]

Thanks!

I actually have the Ingco one in my cart because I already have their impact drill, angle grinder and circular saw so expanding with their range makes the most sense.

I gave my spare battery to my old man and got him the reciprocating saw, so one of these days I'll also get me the 4.0Ah battery for the bigger jobs.

But an impact driver/wrench is definitely on the cards soon, along with the multitool and maybe the blower/vac as well.

And you can say that again WRT the awkward positions...I feel like I am going to have a stiff neck for days. If they weren't so expensive, a mid-rise lift would definitely be a great help, especially since they can be made to fit in most garages if you don't have clearance for a two or four-post lift.

Something you can do to make working in an engine bay easier is to put the front on axel stands or ramps, which brings it up to a nicer to height to work on.

There is few things more blissful than loosening tight bolts effortlessly with an impact driver.. just order one already!

 

[Gtx Gaming]

I have to ask is it the valve cover leaking or power steering pump?

 

[PhireSide]

Something you can do to make working in an engine bay easier is to put the front on axel stands or ramps, which brings it up to a nicer to height to work on.

There is few things more blissful than loosening tight bolts effortlessly with an impact driver.. just order one already!

We actually had to put it on jack stands, the Avant has a piddy 120mm ground clearance so getting my fat melon in underneath to loosen and fasten the banjo bolts was a pain. Not a problem I'd have if I had an allroad, but I digress.

And I'm still waiting for my blesser to surprise me with one, or my eBucks balance to grow a bit - which ever comes first

 

[PhireSide]

I have to ask is it the valve cover leaking or power steering pump?

Neither! The BWE/BWA/BUL engines use a vacuum pump that runs off the camshaft at the rear to provide suction for the brake booster. These have o-rings that tend to fail, and then, when they do, they dribble oil all over the show, as well as straight down below to the coolant flange, which causes the flange o-rings to swell and leak coolant. Did I mention I need to replace a leaky coolant flange?

This thing is leaking worse than a Land Rover at this point in time, but at least I know there is oil inside this way

 

[wingnut771]

It’s on my wishlist right after I get my leaky coolant flange sorted. I took some pics now when I had the airbox off to trace a leak - will try post them.

New core:

View attachment 1329602

The improvised stud:

View attachment 1329604

No cats here, officer:

View attachment 1329606

As the pics foretell, the car isn’t in great shape overall BUT I’m slowly fixing what I can and it’s shaping up quite nicely.

Are you a mechanic? Where are you getting your info (technical) from?

 

[PhireSide]

Are you a mechanic? Where are you getting your info (technical) from?

Computer mechanic, if that counts?

Always been fascinated by engineering and technical systems/drawings/designs...either I missed my calling in life, or I was an engineer in a past one.