The Audi Thread

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These are my favourite parts of the app, the stats page and the values I can see fuel level and esp battery level with working from home I something dont start up my car for 2 to 3 days now I know when the battery is getting low and I can start up the car. The person installing the unit (well literally pluging in the OBD2 device) said that if the battery goes down to a specific value the app will notifiy you thats a huge plus for me.

I would have liked it to have some OBD2 Functions like allow software upgrade to the car or change certain things but I get it they dont want people how have no idea messing with the car, I guess for that I will just use my OBDeleven scanner to make any changes i need.
 

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NR7 said:
Dual clutch gearboxes suck.

It's sad that that manual gearboxes and the reliable torque-converter autos are being phased out for all these modern overly complicated dual clutch gearboxes all because of emission regs and fuel saving. Even worse when its a dry dual clutch too, not as smooth and they are prone to overheating in stop-start traffic in hot climates.
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Not All I see BMW ditched their DCT on the M5 for the torque convertor saying that the ZF boxes are so improved now that a single torque convertor can keep up with the dual clutches.

Overheating of DSG boxes in traffic, never let the clutch pull the car ahead rather wait for a small space and then move the car using the go go pedal when you let the car pull itself without giving it gas it eat the clutches, when you sit in traffic and have your foot on the brake there is a shaft that disconnect the clutch while you are in drive and not moving so no clutch wear.
I have a 10 year old car with DSG and not skipped a beat, my 5 year Audi has an S tronic unit and so far touch wood I take the same care as i do with my 10 year old golf and it seems to be going fine,

THe only issue I have is, ran an OBD eleven test on the injectors and injector 4 seems to be acting up so hunting down a set of good injectors is almost impossible. Goldwagen matched the part numbers and they told me its for an Amarok, which I believe because they share the same engine in different levels of tune, Yet they wont sell me those for the Audi and I cant get OEM wipers from Goldwagen like I can from my golf.
 
PhireSide said:
What do you mean by this? Don't they want to sell to you because they check the VIN or something?
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Yeap they used the VIN number and worked out its an A6 and that injector is for the Amarok which both uses the exactly same CTCC 3.0Tdi engine, Looks like its going to be a visit to the dealership to check for the injectors the worst part is that it has one time only bolts so I cant open it and clean them without having replacement bolts - my plan was to service the injectors first, change the seals and copper washer and if that didnt work then full replacement but its seems its diffcult getting these part even though the engine shared on my VAG models
 
Nithan15 said:
Yeap they used the VIN number and worked out its an A6 and that injector is for the Amarok which both uses the exactly same CTCC 3.0Tdi engine, Looks like its going to be a visit to the dealership to check for the injectors the worst part is that it has one time only bolts so I cant open it and clean them without having replacement bolts - my plan was to service the injectors first, change the seals and copper washer and if that didnt work then full replacement but its seems its diffcult getting these part even though the engine shared on my VAG models
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I see.

OnlineCarParts has stock of them, but at R7k a pop...that is pricey.

Could you not see if you could find another injector at a scrapyard, maybe have it refurbished/cleaned and then put it in along with new bolts/washers?
 
PhireSide said:
I see.

OnlineCarParts has stock of them, but at R7k a pop...that is pricey.

Could you not see if you could find another injector at a scrapyard, maybe have it refurbished/cleaned and then put it in along with new bolts/washers?
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Was actually thinking of refurbishing my current only but I need to find the bolts before I open them - My mechanic is looking around for me for a seal kit I think that will solve the issue but we will have to see.

Injectors are expensive I have seen those prices, but if I do change them I am going to see if I can get OEM or atleast Bosch for piece of mind
 
RSQ3 - y/n?

Any ownership experience?

f8ae67a6-e4a5-432e-845d-c83390cd8b5a
 
Nithan15 said:
Not All I see BMW ditched their DCT on the M5 for the torque convertor saying that the ZF boxes are so improved now that a single torque convertor can keep up with the dual clutches.

Overheating of DSG boxes in traffic, never let the clutch pull the car ahead rather wait for a small space and then move the car using the go go pedal when you let the car pull itself without giving it gas it eat the clutches, when you sit in traffic and have your foot on the brake there is a shaft that disconnect the clutch while you are in drive and not moving so no clutch wear.
I have a 10 year old car with DSG and not skipped a beat, my 5 year Audi has an S tronic unit and so far touch wood I take the same care as i do with my 10 year old golf and it seems to be going fine,

THe only issue I have is, ran an OBD eleven test on the injectors and injector 4 seems to be acting up so hunting down a set of good injectors is almost impossible. Goldwagen matched the part numbers and they told me its for an Amarok, which I believe because they share the same engine in different levels of tune, Yet they wont sell me those for the Audi and I cant get OEM wipers from Goldwagen like I can from my golf.
Click to expand...
Kuk man, when you sitting in traffic the correct thing to do it put in in neutral just like you do with a manual (neutral, foot off the clutch pedal) or else your thrust bearing gets worn. When you have a sufficient gap in front of you then select drive and take your foot off the brake and let the car move forward. Don’t hold the brake and creep forward. When you come to a stop again, select neutral again.
 
wingnut771 said:
Kuk man, when you sitting in traffic the correct thing to do it put in in neutral just like you do with a manual (neutral, foot off the clutch pedal) or else your thrust bearing gets worn. When you have a sufficient gap in front of you then select drive and take your foot off the brake and let the car move forward. Don’t hold the brake and creep forward. When you come to a stop again, select neutral again.
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With the DSG box you dont need to do that , when you put your foot on the brake pedal the clutch disengaged so there is no need to move from D to N and back to D - the warning VW and Audi gives you is never let the car creep in traffic because that overheats the clutch packs.
 
Nithan15 said:
With the DSG box you dont need to do that , when you put your foot on the brake pedal the clutch disengaged so there is no need to move from D to N and back to D - the warning VW and Audi gives you is never let the car creep in traffic because that overheats the clutch packs.
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Sitting with you foot on the brake is the same thing as sitting with your foot on the clutch. Anybody that knows how to drive a manual knows to not sit with your foot on the clutch.
 
wingnut771 said:
Sitting with you foot on the brake is the same thing as sitting with your foot on the clutch. Anybody that knows how to drive a manual knows to not sit with your foot on the clutch.
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Its actually not sitting with your foot on the clutch you are pulling the clutch plate from your flywheel, I mean if its fully depressed in traffic - no issues but if you are putting very little pressure on the clutch plate and its making contact with the flywheel you are now "grinding" the clutch plate on the flywheel.

Foot on brake in traffic, you putting pressure on the master cylinder which then transfer the pressure to the slave cylinders and locks the brake pads or linings in place, if you put too little pressure and the car is slightly moving you are wearing the brake pads on the rotors

On DSG and Stronic if your foot is on the brake pedal and its depressed, the ECU will command the TCU to disengage the clutch , there is a test you can do - put your hand on the gear lever and press the brake you will feel the engaging and disengaging
 
wingnut771 said:
Kuk man, when you sitting in traffic the correct thing to do it put in in neutral just like you do with a manual (neutral, foot off the clutch pedal) or else your thrust bearing gets worn. When you have a sufficient gap in front of you then select drive and take your foot off the brake and let the car move forward. Don’t hold the brake and creep forward. When you come to a stop again, select neutral again.
Click to expand...

How to use DSG transmission properly in traffic jams​

  • It is not recommended to set the gear selector to N position. Modern robotic transmissions drop out of meshing simply by pressing the brake pedal. In other words, when the brake is pressed, the car is in neutral.
  • Do not drive very short distances frequently alternating gas-brake pedals. Each time when you release the brake – it's as if you release the clutch, it automatically starts coming into contact with the flywheel, and it slips due to incomplete contact. When you release the brake and start driving at a speed of 5-6 km/h, then the full engagement takes place.
  • Let the car in front drive at a distance of about 5 meters from your car and follow this car at a low speed in first gear.
  • The resource of DSG6 and DSG7 directly depends on whether the transmission in a traffic jam will shift to the 2-nd gear or not. Frequent shifts from the 1-st to the 2-nd gear and vice versa in traffic jams will kill any robotic transmission with 2 clutches (clutch and flywheel wear and overheat). To avoid such situations, it is better to switch to manual control. To put it simply, drivers independently engage the 1-st gear and do not shift to the second in the situation described above.
go4trans.com

Useful Tips on Driving Cars Equipped with DSG Transmissions

Useful Tips on Driving Cars Equipped with DSG Transmissions Progress does not stand still as new technologies emerge in the automotive industry...
go4trans.com go4trans.com
 
Nithan15 said:
put your hand on the gear lever and press the brake you will feel the engaging and disengaging
Click to expand...
I'm coming in at the arse-end of the convo, but I thought this was the interlock releasing that prevents shifting out of Park if the brake lever isn't depressed?
 
Nithan15 said:
Its actually not sitting with your foot on the clutch you are pulling the clutch plate from your flywheel, I mean if its fully depressed in traffic - no issues but if you are putting very little pressure on the clutch plate and its making contact with the flywheel you are now "grinding" the clutch plate on the flywheel.

Foot on brake in traffic, you putting pressure on the master cylinder which then transfer the pressure to the slave cylinders and locks the brake pads or linings in place, if you put too little pressure and the car is slightly moving you are wearing the brake pads on the rotors

On DSG and Stronic if your foot is on the brake pedal and its depressed, the ECU will command the TCU to disengage the clutch , there is a test you can do - put your hand on the gear lever and press the brake you will feel the engaging and disengaging
Click to expand...
Have a look at your instant fuel consumption with your foot on the brake in d, then move it to n and have a look again.

I have a 3.0tdi B8.5 A4. Mine sits at 1.2l/h in d, 0.8l/h in n.

Being a wet clutch it can handle this, but dry clutches get worn by sitting in d with your foot on the brake.

Let us know if you find an injector washer kit. :thumbsup:
 
wingnut771 said:
Have a look at your instant fuel consumption with your foot on the brake in d, then move it to n and have a look again.

I have a 3.0tdi B8.5 A4. Mine sits at 1.2l/h in d, 0.8l/h in n.

Being a wet clutch it can handle this, but dry clutches get worn by sitting in d with your foot on the brake.

Let us know if you find an injector washer kit. :thumbsup:
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I havent checked that - but will do :)

Dude I have been looking for someone with a 3.0TDI on a A4 I have so many questions

Will keep you guys posted on the injector service kit - got my guy looking for it

Any recommendation on good wiper blades - besides R1200 at the dealer - got the Golf 6 GTI from Goldwagen in the OEM box for around R300.00 last month
 
PhireSide said:
I'm coming in at the arse-end of the convo, but I thought this was the interlock releasing that prevents shifting out of Park if the brake lever isn't depressed?
Click to expand...
That as well you can feel that very strongly when the car is in park and you pump the brakes, while driving its similiar but very faint.
 
Nithan15 said:
Yeap they used the VIN number and worked out its an A6 and that injector is for the Amarok which both uses the exactly same CTCC 3.0Tdi engine, Looks like its going to be a visit to the dealership to check for the injectors the worst part is that it has one time only bolts so I cant open it and clean them without having replacement bolts - my plan was to service the injectors first, change the seals and copper washer and if that didnt work then full replacement but its seems its diffcult getting these part even though the engine shared on my VAG models
Click to expand...
I think the injectors are 14k from VW and 10k for aftermarket ones, if it is the same one that touareg 3.0TDI uses.

Diesel eletric sells the aftermarket ones.
 
Gtx Gaming said:
I think the injectors are 14k from VW and 10k for aftermarket ones, if it is the same one that touareg 3.0TDI uses.

Diesel eletric sells the aftermarket ones.
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Dude thank you so much for the information - gonna definitely check them out

I know its my number 4 cylinder piston when I tested via OBDeleven so might change that one or all
 
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