The Audi Thread

Could you feel the difference between a wet and dry clutch pack?
To be honest I didn't notice. Maybe because I wasn't looking for it.
One thing I don't like though is the gear selector. It is easy enough to use but I still prefer having a actual gear lever.
 
Are all solenoids equal? I worry about doing the whole refurb thing and the replacement parts last a third of the time the original ones did?
Well the trick is to not buy the most expensive and not the cheapest find a common ground :giggle:
 
If that's so, I wonder how feasible it would be to replace the solenoids like in a regular slushbox transmission? I know it's a common maintenance item (along with the filters and the wiring harness) on some traditional automatic gearboxes with torque converters.

If it's multitronic CVT then I would do oil and filter changes every 30k (half the recommended interval) as dirty oil kills the belt afaik and I feel the normal interval is too long for these boxes which is why they don't last imho.

I always get the stuff from the agents when doing servicing.
Best thing for auto gearbox maintenance especially cvt is fresh oil at reduced service intervals, I’d go with every 50k but 30k certainly won’t hurt and may help prevent premature faulure.

You can also get oil at Ravenol, cheaper than the agents and available in 1L packs so you don’t waste oil.
@PhireSide I hope your Cvt is still ok because they suffer when owners don’t change the oil. I’m not sure how those cvt‘s work, do they have a friction clutchpack or torque converter clutch?
 
Best thing for auto gearbox maintenance especially cvt is fresh oil at reduced service intervals, I’d go with every 50k but 30k certainly won’t hurt and may help prevent premature faulure.

You can also get oil at Ravenol, cheaper than the agents and available in 1L packs so you don’t waste oil.
@PhireSide I hope your Cvt is still ok because they suffer when owners don’t change the oil. I’m not sure how those cvt‘s work, do they have a friction clutchpack or torque converter clutch?
A belt wrapped around 2 cones afaik.
cvt_eplanation.jpg
 
Best thing for auto gearbox maintenance especially cvt is fresh oil at reduced service intervals, I’d go with every 50k but 30k certainly won’t hurt and may help prevent premature faulure.

You can also get oil at Ravenol, cheaper than the agents and available in 1L packs so you don’t waste oil.
@PhireSide I hope your Cvt is still ok because they suffer when owners don’t change the oil. I’m not sure how those cvt‘s work, do they have a friction clutchpack or torque converter clutch?

Most use torque converters from what I remember.
 
I think the CVT boxes use a clutch pack for the initial clutching action that is then coupled with the cone and belt setup to provide the ratios. I've had no issues with the box yet, which gives me all the more reason to want to do the service ASAP.

1681306874179.png

I don't think I have seen Ravenol here in PE, I usually just get the Febi stuff from Goldwagen but it is a little pricey at around R240 per litre:

1681306786458.png
 
Most use torque converters from what I remember.
The torque converter clutch packs are a lot more durable than ones with friction discs.
I think the CVT boxes use a clutch pack for the initial clutching action that is then coupled with the cone and belt setup to provide the ratios. I've had no issues with the box yet, which gives me all the more reason to want to do the service ASAP.

View attachment 1507091

I don't think I have seen Ravenol here in PE, I usually just get the Febi stuff from Goldwagen but it is a little pricey at around R240 per litre:

View attachment 1507087
You can order Ravenol online, free shipping if you order enough for a gearbox oil change.
 
Found this on an older article referencing Multitronic on a B6 Audi A4:

Another key element of the Multitronic system is its use of an electronically controlled multi-plate wet clutch rather than a torque converter. The flexibility of the Multitronic CVT allows Audi to drop the heavier torque converter and thus save considerable weight, yet the clutch still provides the "creep effect" at idle much like an automatic transmission.

So looks like a wet clutch pack for initial engagement with the cones and chain for gradual ratio adjustment as you pick up speed. And I doubt those clutch packs are serviceable, so you probably have to toss the gearbox once they wear out:coffee:
 
Found this on an older article referencing Multitronic on a B6 Audi A4:



So looks like a wet clutch pack for initial engagement with the cones and chain for gradual ratio adjustment as you pick up speed. And I doubt those clutch packs are serviceable, so you probably have to toss the gearbox once they wear out:coffee:
Ah ok that’s interesting, Honda made the move to torque converter clutches on their cvt’s in 2012.
Even more reason to do a full flush if it’s driving fine now, if you catch it before they shudder is normally the best outcome. Do these Audi cvts also get shudder when the pack wears out?
 
Ah ok that’s interesting, Honda made the move to torque converter clutches on their cvt’s in 2012.
Even more reason to do a full flush if it’s driving fine now, if you catch it before they shudder is normally the best outcome. Do these Audi cvts also get shudder when the pack wears out?
I definitely think that TQ transmissions have their place in the world. Hell, I even see that VW is offering them on some of their models (1.4 T-Roc has 8-spd Tip vs 2.0T-Roc with 7-spd DSG), so I think that the tech has come far enough that they can hang with the fancier units these days. Whenever I hear clutchpacks I think of bikes with the emphasis on lightness and where you can bathe your pack in oil to keep it cool and lubricated.

I have heard of a few isolated incidents of these Multitronic transmissions having issues, but most are few and far between. I've found that, in my experience, reverse gear is quite lethargic though, so reversing up a steep incline feels really wrong, almost like it doesn't have the power to move the car around. Other than that, another complaint is the 'rubber band' feeling on pullaway which isn't really a major one to me, as I am not a robot racer :)

But, reading up, if you start having judder on pullaway, it means the clutchpack is busy going out. And flashing PRND lights mean an issue with the TCM, usually. And also (anecdotally) they seem to last longer in the petrol engines than when mated to the diesel engines, so I would imagine the extra torque places additional strain on the box.
 
I definitely think that TQ transmissions have their place in the world. Hell, I even see that VW is offering them on some of their models (1.4 T-Roc has 8-spd Tip vs 2.0T-Roc with 7-spd DSG), so I think that the tech has come far enough that they can hang with the fancier units these days. Whenever I hear clutchpacks I think of bikes with the emphasis on lightness and where you can bathe your pack in oil to keep it cool and lubricated.

I have heard of a few isolated incidents of these Multitronic transmissions having issues, but most are few and far between. I've found that, in my experience, reverse gear is quite lethargic though, so reversing up a steep incline feels really wrong, almost like it doesn't have the power to move the car around. Other than that, another complaint is the 'rubber band' feeling on pullaway which isn't really a major one to me, as I am not a robot racer :)

But, reading up, if you start having judder on pullaway, it means the clutchpack is busy going out. And flashing PRND lights mean an issue with the TCM, usually. And also (anecdotally) they seem to last longer in the petrol engines than when mated to the diesel engines, so I would imagine the extra torque places additional strain on the box.
Reversing up a steep driveway every morning is a big no-no. A colleague's wife did this from new and it was poked 6 months after the warranty was up.
 
Reversing up a steep driveway every morning is a big no-no. A colleague's wife did this from new and it was poked 6 months after the warranty was up.
Yup, we have a steep one too, but enough space to turn around at the bottom at least.

A while back I was heading down a gravel path and it got very steep, and the road got washed out at the bottom. I had no choice but to reverse back up, and that poor transmission hated me for it :ROFL:
 
I definitely think that TQ transmissions have their place in the world. Hell, I even see that VW is offering them on some of their models (1.4 T-Roc has 8-spd Tip vs 2.0T-Roc with 7-spd DSG), so I think that the tech has come far enough that they can hang with the fancier units these days. Whenever I hear clutchpacks I think of bikes with the emphasis on lightness and where you can bathe your pack in oil to keep it cool and lubricated.

I have heard of a few isolated incidents of these Multitronic transmissions having issues, but most are few and far between. I've found that, in my experience, reverse gear is quite lethargic though, so reversing up a steep incline feels really wrong, almost like it doesn't have the power to move the car around. Other than that, another complaint is the 'rubber band' feeling on pullaway which isn't really a major one to me, as I am not a robot racer :)

But, reading up, if you start having judder on pullaway, it means the clutchpack is busy going out. And flashing PRND lights mean an issue with the TCM, usually. And also (anecdotally) they seem to last longer in the petrol engines than when mated to the diesel engines, so I would imagine the extra torque places additional strain on the box.
The shudder is normally the first sign the oil is very contaminated with friction material, if you change it asap it’s normally fine, the problems start when the oil is not changed asap and the high levels of friction material accelerate the clutch wear. Changing the oil regularly keeps the friction material contamination low and hence reduces cultch wear and extends the serviceable life. And pull off lightly, hammering it regularly on takeoff will chow the clutch faster. I think if you drive them carefully and change the oil regularly they last just fine.

I’m assuming the newer Audi cvt‘s have torque converter clutch packs?
 
The shudder is normally the first sign the oil is very contaminated with friction material, if you change it asap it’s normally fine, the problems start when the oil is not changed asap and the high levels of friction material accelerate the clutch wear. Changing the oil regularly keeps the friction material contamination low and hence reduces cultch wear and extends the serviceable life. And pull off lightly, hammering it regularly on takeoff will chow the clutch faster. I think if you drive them carefully and change the oil regularly they last just fine.

I’m assuming the newer Audi cvt‘s have torque converter clutch packs?
That seems to be the general notion. They are quite 'fragile' as far as gearboxes are concerned, so they have to be treated with care to make them last. I found a very good (100+ pages) tech document on the 01J gearbox, but haven't found anything similar for the newer ones. I think they discontinued Multitronic around 2017?

From what I read, back in the day, you had the choice of Manual or 4/5-speed Tiptronic. Then stepless Multitronic came into the picture, which was supposed to replace the Tiptronic, but only on FWD cars. Then years later, with the shift to automatic transmissions, they phased out Multitronic for S-Tronic (DSG) and introduced an 8-speed Tiptronic again as it was likely at a level where it could be considering good enough in terms of efficiency (which is apparently why they wanted to ditch Tiptronic for Multitronic in the first place).

@Crowley, hope they can sort your ride out soon!
 
So I was going through my manual and I came across the fuel requirements for the Diesel engines and it states ULSD no2 which when doing some digging states that the specs for ULSD 2 is sulphur content no more than 15ppm - I have always used 50ppm because of the lubrication benefits over 10ppm

what is everyone else using in the their TDi's? I suppose 50ppm as well

1681370129746.png
 
So I was going through my manual and I came across the fuel requirements for the Diesel engines and it states ULSD no2 which when doing some digging states that the specs for ULSD 2 is sulphur content no more than 15ppm - I have always used 50ppm because of the lubrication benefits over 10ppm

what is everyone else using in the their TDi's? I suppose 50ppm as well

View attachment 1507341

That doesn't look like it was written for the SA market where 50ppm diesel is the current norm, I do my best to find 10ppm but I have only found Sasol close to home has it.
 
So I was going through my manual and I came across the fuel requirements for the Diesel engines and it states ULSD no2 which when doing some digging states that the specs for ULSD 2 is sulphur content no more than 15ppm - I have always used 50ppm because of the lubrication benefits over 10ppm

what is everyone else using in the their TDi's? I suppose 50ppm as well

View attachment 1507341
I try use 10ppm when possible (only Total has it in dbn afaik) as it smells less.
My manual says:
GetAttachmentThumbnail
 
So I was going through my manual and I came across the fuel requirements for the Diesel engines and it states ULSD no2 which when doing some digging states that the specs for ULSD 2 is sulphur content no more than 15ppm - I have always used 50ppm because of the lubrication benefits over 10ppm

what is everyone else using in the their TDi's? I suppose 50ppm as well

View attachment 1507341
AFAIK Engen only has 50ppm so no other choice really.
 
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