The Home Improvements Thread (2)

SAguy

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how much space are you actually going to save though? the pipe is 40mm and the elbow maybe should add like another 40mm at most so like at most it sticks out 8-10cm? maybe if your valves are in line with where the pipe comes out before the elbow etc maybe rather conisder moving that to the longer straights to avoid how far it intrudes on the space?

personally i feel like keeping tanks seperate is better for flexibility and now effort to go add another point etc
Yeah, I'm still on the fence with deciding.

I would still have a valve between the two tanks, but I wouldn't be able to drain the left hand one independently.
I could move the valves to the straight lengths, but that would only work for the left tank, moving the right tank valve to the straight would also just cut off both.

In the last year and a bit I think I've only ever drained individual tanks to make changes, but as a backup I could put a second valve on the left tank too (and just keep it closed)

I'd gain about 30cm, and with my new gate needing to be to be at the red x that's precious space. There's a step just behind the vibracrete against the house, so the gate needs to be wider to actually have a walkway through.

1617020337573.png
 

ToxicBunny

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Our boundary wall fell over and the neighbour and I will share the costs of rebuilding using existing bricks.

She says the contractor quoted R19 600 for a 25m x 2m wall, single brick. Does that sound fair?

Reason I'm asking is years ago a building company said they'd give me a quote for double the actual price so I could con our neighbour into paying the whole price instead of half. ..... and, no, we didn't use them as they were clearly crooks.

I would get your own contractor to quote on the job as well and not just blindly accept the neighbours quote.

Also the wall "fell over"? Is this not necessarily something to be involving your insurance company in?
 

jezzad

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Our boundary wall fell over and the neighbour and I will share the costs of rebuilding using existing bricks.

She says the contractor quoted R19 600 for a 25m x 2m wall, single brick. Does that sound fair?

Reason I'm asking is years ago a building company said they'd give me a quote for double the actual price so I could con our neighbour into paying the whole price instead of half. ..... and, no, we didn't use them as they were clearly crooks.
Check the building specks for the wall height vs length. Over a certain length and height it needs to be a double wall with pillars to be compliant.
 

ToxicBunny

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Yeah, I'm still on the fence with deciding.

I would still have a valve between the two tanks, but I wouldn't be able to drain the left hand one independently.
I could move the valves to the straight lengths, but that would only work for the left tank, moving the right tank valve to the straight would also just cut off both.

In the last year and a bit I think I've only ever drained individual tanks to make changes, but as a backup I could put a second valve on the left tank too (and just keep it closed)

I'd gain about 30cm, and with my new gate needing to be to be at the red x that's precious space. There's a step just behind the vibracrete against the house, so the gate needs to be wider to actually have a walkway through.

View attachment 1043843

Yeah to be honest, Looking at that I'd rather look at moving your valves and reducing the "sticky out" part of the pipes rather than trying to tie the two tanks together in series. It will be easier and cheaper as well probably. How much space do you have behind the tanks though? Maybe rotate them 180 degrees, and then have the valves in an accessible position near the pump?
 

Steamy Tom

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Yeah, I'm still on the fence with deciding.

I would still have a valve between the two tanks, but I wouldn't be able to drain the left hand one independently.
I could move the valves to the straight lengths, but that would only work for the left tank, moving the right tank valve to the straight would also just cut off both.

In the last year and a bit I think I've only ever drained individual tanks to make changes, but as a backup I could put a second valve on the left tank too (and just keep it closed)

I'd gain about 30cm, and with my new gate needing to be to be at the red x that's precious space. There's a step just behind the vibracrete against the house, so the gate needs to be wider to actually have a walkway through.

View attachment 1043843

drop the pipe down with an elbow as it comes out, then another elbow to bring it back horizontal, then take out a line of bricks and make it a gulley, then you have all the space back and keep the same setup :p the gulley would need drainage though so you need to take it all the way to the end. cover it with a grid/gulley covers so you can walk over it.
 

maumau

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I would get your own contractor to quote on the job as well and not just blindly accept the neighbours quote.

Also the wall "fell over"? Is this not necessarily something to be involving your insurance company in?

Thank you TB. The wall was put up by previous neighbours before they sold the house. It's been rickety from the start but has held up for about 10 years.

We were told the wall is not strong enough to support an electric fence but the new neighbours installed one and it probably couldn't withstand that plus the recent storms and hectic wind.

On your advice I've contacted the insurance broker and she's asked for a copy of the quote so will see what comes of that.
 

maumau

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Check the building specks for the wall height vs length. Over a certain length and height it needs to be a double wall with pillars to be compliant.

Ooooh gonas, don't want to go there :eek: but guess I have to check. Thanks
 

SAguy

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Yeah to be honest, Looking at that I'd rather look at moving your valves and reducing the "sticky out" part of the pipes rather than trying to tie the two tanks together in series. It will be easier and cheaper as well probably. How much space do you have behind the tanks though? Maybe rotate them 180 degrees, and then have the valves in an accessible position near the pump?
No space behind them sadly, but I can move them further apart from each other.
drop the pipe down with an elbow as it comes out, then another elbow to bring it back horizontal, then take out a line of bricks and make it a gulley, then you have all the space back and keep the same setup :p the gulley would need drainage though so you need to take it all the way to the end. cover it with a grid/gulley covers so you can walk over it.
While I'm digging I may as well just keep digging, get a 10 000l underground tank and bury it... problem solved! :)

I could maybe rotate them both 90 degrees in, so that their valves face each other. Then elbow off each towards the front or back. That way I can still have a valve for each tank, and no space lost in front... mmm

Worst part of this is moving these tanks. Even if you drain them there's like 4 or 5cm of water left, which is like 150 liters + the weight of the tank. I have a submersible pond pump that gets another couple of cm out, but still not fun.
 

ToxicBunny

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No space behind them sadly, but I can move them further apart from each other.

While I'm digging I may as well just keep digging, get a 10 000l underground tank and bury it... problem solved! :)

I could maybe rotate them both 90 degrees in, so that their valves face each other. Then elbow off each towards the front or back. That way I can still have a valve for each tank, and no space lost in front... mmm

Worst part of this is moving these tanks. Even if you drain them there's like 4 or 5cm of water left, which is like 150 liters + the weight of the tank. I have a submersible pond pump that gets another couple of cm out, but still not fun.

If you can get some space between them, that might be your best option then, then you can still have them independent of each other and have the space you want.
 

SAguy

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If you can get some space between them, that might be your best option then, then you can still have them independent of each other and have the space you want.
... and no making extra holes in the tank. I think this may be the way to go. Can maybe also relocate my pump to the middle then. I'll see.
 

maumau

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Yeah its a mission, I also wanted single brick. Got a structural engineer in and he prescribed the dimensions we needed to follow.

Neighbour's ex-husband is an engineer - if he's structural it will be a win.
 
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SAguy

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Yeah its a mission, I also wanted single brick. Got a structural engineer in and he prescribed the dimensions we needed to follow.
I think walls above 2m require a structural engineer to sign off IIRC.
 

MjK

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Anyone know a product that can repair a jacuzzis finish? I have some spots that are damaged, but can't seem to find anything that matches that colour. Theres lots of products that match ceramic white, but on the jacuzzi they look grey.
 

Steamy Tom

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Anyone know a product that can repair a jacuzzis finish? I have some spots that are damaged, but can't seem to find anything that matches that colour. Theres lots of products that match ceramic white, but on the jacuzzi they look grey.

generally you would need to tint the base product to a colour match then
 

xrapidx

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How do you know the minimum spacing between tiles, or doesn't it really matter? Want to use 3mm spacers as per the other tiles in the house.

I've previously seen it on the box - current lot doesn't have any indication.
 

Smokey mcpot

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Various reasons. Sometimes the tiles are not squared 100% so you need a thicker spacer so that it’s not too visible. Edge finishes as well, not perfectly straight so it needs thicker spacing to hide imperfections. Materials used sometimes need a thicker join. Your tiler should know. Otherwise check with the sales guys ... but I have very little faith in them
 
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