The Home Improvements Thread (2)

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CamiKaze said:
Ok, this is starting to sound expensive now.
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yeah it isn't as simple as filling the "hole", those walls weren't designed or made to have 10 tons of concrete poured into it, when you fill it the weight is directed in all directions (except up of course)
 
I really have no idea with what I'm going to do with this fkn floor now... Sigh...
 
Steamy Tom said:
yeah it isn't as simple as filling the "hole", those walls weren't designed or made to have 10 tons of concrete poured into it, when you fill it the weight is directed in all directions (except up of course)
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Steamy Tom said:
imo you should replace it and it will be good to go for 20 years,, or get a professional opinion.
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I would keep it if I were you. Wooden floors are the best.

If not and you are worried about weight lookup high density polystyrene foam.

Used a lot these days. Can cut to size and 28cm is not too deep

And you can screed over the foam. Also great insulator
 
WAslayer said:
You can put in a wooden subfloor and tile/laminate floor over that..
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Can I not use the existing wooden floor and lower it? Then LVT over that?

BUT, don't wood need to breath so these it didn't go rotten? LVT over wood works cause that problem right?
 
CamiKaze said:
Ok, this is starting to sound expensive now.
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To replace a suspended wooden floor with a slab will be po3s expensive and involve you leaving your house for a month at least... You can half arse the job

I'm all honesty get a professional company in to give you options. I would personally keep the wood and fix what can be fixed then sand it all down and stain it to blend in...
 
ToxicBunny said:
To replace a suspended wooden floor with a slab will be po3s expensive and involve you leaving your house for a month at least... You can half arse the job

I'm all honesty get a professional company in to give you options. I would personally keep the wood and fix what can be fixed then sand it all down and stain it to blend in...
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How do I sand this down homie? It's gone...

It's nearly impossible to get Oregon Pine planks and the last fscker charged my R1100 for a 1m plank. Is he then J@S?
3ea5fa5bccc1cd420e46fd0d25d3ff2f.jpg
 
ToxicBunny said:
To replace a suspended wooden floor with a slab will be po3s expensive and involve you leaving your house for a month at least... You can half arse the job

I'm all honesty get a professional company in to give you options. I would personally keep the wood and fix what can be fixed then sand it all down and stain it to blend in...
Click to expand...
da58d488e46462acd057b802e1c5d713.jpg
 
CamiKaze said:
How do I sand this down homie? It's gone...

It's nearly impossible to get Oregon Pine planks and the last fscker charged my R1100 for a 1m plank. Is he then J@S?
3ea5fa5bccc1cd420e46fd0d25d3ff2f.jpg
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1100 for a 1m plank? He was smoking his socks... 1100 per sqm maybe...

But the state of that yeah, it's toast.... Whatever you do is gonna cost big crown...

Maybe if would be more cost effective to rip it out, dig down a small amount and then put in a decent framework underneath to then have a proper plywood subfloor thst you can the do whatever you want on top of.
 
CamiKaze said:
How do I sand this down homie? It's gone...

It's nearly impossible to get Oregon Pine planks and the last fscker charged my R1100 for a 1m plank. Is he then J@S?
3ea5fa5bccc1cd420e46fd0d25d3ff2f.jpg
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Look at structural fill.

We had to raise a floor for a bathroom in an 80 year old building on the 6th floor and this is what was used.

Previously the owners threw down a ****ton of concrete which could have affected the building structurally due to the weight.
 
I would rip it out fumigate and weed killer and use the polystyrene blocks. Use a light weight screed at floor height and sorted
 
alqassam said:
I would rip it out fumigate and weed killer and use the polystyrene blocks. Use a light weight screed at floor height and sorted
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Not sure I'd trust local builders with something like that..... And if the cock it up the costs to fix it after the fact would be mental.
 
How about I lay m190 blocks every meter, wait for that to dry, then fill with concrete as time goes by?

Or m190 every square meter, then top it up with a concrete layer then LVT it?

An m190 is approximately R11.00
 
CamiKaze said:
Can I not use the existing wooden floor and lower it? Then LVT over that?

BUT, don't wood need to breath so these it didn't go rotten? LVT over wood works cause that problem right?
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Don't do it over the existing floor.. rip out and replace with a subfloor purpose designed for being tiled/laminate over it..
 
CamiKaze said:
How about I lay m190 blocks every meter, wait for that to dry, then fill with concrete as time goes by?

Or m190 every square meter, then top it up with a concrete layer then LVT it?

An m190 is approximately R11.00
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Honestly I wouldn't do that... It's a bit of a make do solution.... When I have a bit of time tomorrow I'll post some pictures of what I'm suggesting.
 
Have seen this done in Woodstock before. Rip out old planks, fill with rubble, fill gaps with concrete. Do this halfway. Once cured do second half with grid and let cure. Afterwards you can do whatever you want on top of the concrete. Quote common in the Woodstock area although I advise against it if you've got a very old house with damp issues. There's a reason the floors were made that way.
 
Installed a new DVR and replace two camera's today. Can now monitor what's going on around the house from anywhere.

Just need to find an app that works with android TV so that I can watch from all TV's in the house. Standard app isn't work well.
 
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