The Home Improvements Thread (2)

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so I can't put it off any longer... the house needs to be painted.

I wanted to do it myself (possibly with some labourers) but i am on the fence...

it is more than just painting, i want to replace all of the barge boards, fix up a part where the wall have wooden board up to the roof and then there are some spots that need attention like as in the plaster has light bubbling from years of water splashing/runoff etc.

so my thoughts are:
- Do it myself and get someone to do the odd bits i can't/won't like the plaster work
- Do some things myself like the roof painting and barge board replacement and get someone to do the bulk of the paint work and prep
- Sell my soul and let someone do everything...

what would you do?

some notes to consider/need advice on.

- the barge boards are currently just the flat facsia boards, i want to replace them with the angled barge boards - opinions on this? do you think i need to replace all of the end brandering?
- there is a section on the small garage where the "flashing" is coming a bit loose, it looks like a fibre/material flashing that is fixed to the wall and painter, how best to repair this? (this is a case where the wall is on the boundary and the wall goes up higher than the roof, so the roof meets it on the side.)
- water proofing the ridge, places were some of the mortor is a bit sparse, should i mortar this again then membrane and waterproof the entire ridge, or should i just membrane/waterproof it only
- i planned to use bonding liquid to seal the roof tiles then paint it, thoughts on this method?
- painting the exterior walls, advice on prep? the old paint imo is a bit shitty the one wall for example if i rub it with my hand then my hand ends up chlaky and white like the paint
- gutters - what is the best way to deal with them? take them off or leave them on to prep? how best to prep, some are pretty bad and are down to the metal in places.
- i have a place where two roof sections are at different levels, and the have like wooden slats where a wall would normally be going up to the roof. it is old and the wood is deyaced, what best to replace it with?

i will try take some pics to supplement this.

TIA
 
Steamy Tom said:
so I can't put it off any longer... the house needs to be painted.

I wanted to do it myself (possibly with some labourers) but i am on the fence...

it is more than just painting, i want to replace all of the barge boards, fix up a part where the wall have wooden board up to the roof and then there are some spots that need attention like as in the plaster has light bubbling from years of water splashing/runoff etc.

so my thoughts are:
- Do it myself and get someone to do the odd bits i can't/won't like the plaster work
- Do some things myself like the roof painting and barge board replacement and get someone to do the bulk of the paint work and prep
- Sell my soul and let someone do everything...

what would you do?

some notes to consider/need advice on.

- the barge boards are currently just the flat facsia boards, i want to replace them with the angled barge boards - opinions on this? do you think i need to replace all of the end brandering?
- there is a section on the small garage where the "flashing" is coming a bit loose, it looks like a fibre/material flashing that is fixed to the wall and painter, how best to repair this? (this is a case where the wall is on the boundary and the wall goes up higher than the roof, so the roof meets it on the side.)
- water proofing the ridge, places were some of the mortor is a bit sparse, should i mortar this again then membrane and waterproof the entire ridge, or should i just membrane/waterproof it only
- i planned to use bonding liquid to seal the roof tiles then paint it, thoughts on this method?
- painting the exterior walls, advice on prep? the old paint imo is a bit shitty the one wall for example if i rub it with my hand then my hand ends up chlaky and white like the paint
- gutters - what is the best way to deal with them? take them off or leave them on to prep? how best to prep, some are pretty bad and are down to the metal in places.
- i have a place where two roof sections are at different levels, and the have like wooden slats where a wall would normally be going up to the roof. it is old and the wood is deyaced, what best to replace it with?

i will try take some pics to supplement this.

TIA
Click to expand...

i think it is referred to as a gable?
 
Just like that, 2020 renovations over. Bar out, fireplace in.
81fd2a054db51f4a13936f63403a071d.jpg
4cd962042237b9de65e5a5ffa67eb1ca.jpg
 
Steamy Tom said:
so I can't put it off any longer... the house needs to be painted.

I wanted to do it myself (possibly with some labourers) but i am on the fence...

it is more than just painting, i want to replace all of the barge boards, fix up a part where the wall have wooden board up to the roof and then there are some spots that need attention like as in the plaster has light bubbling from years of water splashing/runoff etc.

so my thoughts are:
- Do it myself and get someone to do the odd bits i can't/won't like the plaster work
- Do some things myself like the roof painting and barge board replacement and get someone to do the bulk of the paint work and prep
- Sell my soul and let someone do everything...

what would you do?

some notes to consider/need advice on.

- the barge boards are currently just the flat facsia boards, i want to replace them with the angled barge boards - opinions on this? do you think i need to replace all of the end brandering?
- there is a section on the small garage where the "flashing" is coming a bit loose, it looks like a fibre/material flashing that is fixed to the wall and painter, how best to repair this? (this is a case where the wall is on the boundary and the wall goes up higher than the roof, so the roof meets it on the side.)
- water proofing the ridge, places were some of the mortor is a bit sparse, should i mortar this again then membrane and waterproof the entire ridge, or should i just membrane/waterproof it only
- i planned to use bonding liquid to seal the roof tiles then paint it, thoughts on this method?
- painting the exterior walls, advice on prep? the old paint imo is a bit shitty the one wall for example if i rub it with my hand then my hand ends up chlaky and white like the paint
- gutters - what is the best way to deal with them? take them off or leave them on to prep? how best to prep, some are pretty bad and are down to the metal in places.
- i have a place where two roof sections are at different levels, and the have like wooden slats where a wall would normally be going up to the roof. it is old and the wood is deyaced, what best to replace it with?

i will try take some pics to supplement this.

TIA
Click to expand...
We currently have a site with a similar state that we’re working on. The worst part is the damage you can’t see. Quoted this guy 85k to paint everything... we’re currently 140k in on the job after some gruesome discoveries.

however this is the first I’ve seen a house in this state. Previous owner did a massive cover up of things just to sell. People don’t realize how expensive a proper paint job can really be.

Getting in some laborers will be much cheaper, but be sure to manage them as this is where many experienced guys mess up. They don’t plan too well and try to cut costs to save the client time and money... a lot of times this ends up costing more time and money. Good luck with the project.
 
Smokey mcpot said:
We currently have a site with a similar state that we’re working on. The worst part is the damage you can’t see. Quoted this guy 85k to paint everything... we’re currently 140k in on the job after some gruesome discoveries.

however this is the first I’ve seen a house in this state. Previous owner did a massive cover up of things just to sell. People don’t realize how expensive a proper paint job can really be.

Getting in some laborers will be much cheaper, but be sure to manage them as this is where many experienced guys mess up. They don’t plan too well and try to cut costs to save the client time and money... a lot of times this ends up costing more time and money. Good luck with the project.
Click to expand...

sheesh i don't think mine is in a state that will end up like that, sounds horrific O_O

My big worry with getting someone in is that from past experience i end up having to micro manage the guy, being let down or left with problems etc anyway.

what would you use to replace the wood i described?
 
Yeah I doubt anyone’s house would be in the state of the house I mentioned.
Hard to say what I would do with the wood. Sounds like you’re describing a wall type structure that was built using wood? If that is the case I would probably replace with nutec boards/planks instead. My gripe against wood is the maintenance there of. If you can maintain it then no problem as wood can be made to look great. Can you possibly upload a picture which would make it easier to help.
 
Smokey mcpot said:
Yeah I doubt anyone’s house would be in the state of the house I mentioned.
Hard to say what I would do with the wood. Sounds like you’re describing a wall type structure that was built using wood? If that is the case I would probably replace with nutec boards/planks instead. My gripe against wood is the maintenance there of. If you can maintain it then no problem as wood can be made to look great. Can you possibly upload a picture which would make it easier to help.
Click to expand...

you can see the wood i refer to here
IMG_20200702_112327.jpg
this below is the portion where i refer to the "flashing"
IMG_20200702_112451.jpg
this is the majority of the kind of prep work i mean, near the bottom where it is flaky/bubbling
IMG_20200702_112437.jpg

this is probably the worst spot, it is technically a boundary wall, it is very flaky up near the top.
IMG_20200702_112716.jpg

there is one really bad spot on this wall where it is definately a damp issue near the bottom
 
So I would definitely do nutec.

the flashing is most likely membrane and bitumen. I personally use the Duram durabit, has never let me down. Be sure to first paint on a layer and let it dry. Then your layer with membrane. Once dried an additional layer painted over.

for the flakey wall just rent a pressure cleaner and it will save you hours. Don’t use a karcher or home unit, rent the compressor units from a tool hire place.

for the damp spots I replaster the walls with sika cemflex in the mortar. Once done plastering we also make a slush with the cemflex and brush the entire wall with a block brush to add waterproofing. I hate waterproofing so I always overdo it to avoid having to come back and repairing work.
 
xrapidx said:
What's wrong with Karcher units?
Click to expand...

nothing, but they won’t remove as much as you want. You’ll end up doing a lot of scraping after the clean with karcher. With the compressor it will remove all the flakey bits and loose plaster. Use the right tool for the job.
 
@Smokey mcpot what's the correct way to plaster over lintel slabs ? Specialy the sides... chip them a bit for the plaster to grip, or ??
 
Smokey mcpot said:
So I would definitely do nutec.

the flashing is most likely membrane and bitumen. I personally use the Duram durabit, has never let me down. Be sure to first paint on a layer and let it dry. Then your layer with membrane. Once dried an additional layer painted over.

for the flakey wall just rent a pressure cleaner and it will save you hours. Don’t use a karcher or home unit, rent the compressor units from a tool hire place.

for the damp spots I replaster the walls with sika cemflex in the mortar. Once done plastering we also make a slush with the cemflex and brush the entire wall with a block brush to add waterproofing. I hate waterproofing so I always overdo it to avoid having to come back and repairing work.
Click to expand...

Thanks @Smokey mcpot

The nutec - like this stuff? https://leroymerlin.co.za/fibre-cement-ceiling-6mm-x-1-2mm-x-3m-nutec-81423757

how do you "join" the sections?

Should i remove the old "flashing" or go over this one?

So once i have washed/scraped it off - shouldi do anything other than a paint primer to prep it?
 
Ah, thanks, even the bigger Kutcher models? Was planning on buying one for house painting, cleaning, etc.
 
Smokey mcpot said:
nothing, but they won’t remove as much as you want. You’ll end up doing a lot of scraping after the clean with karcher. With the compressor it will remove all the flakey bits and loose plaster. Use the right tool for the job.
Click to expand...
You have to use the right spray lance. The cheaper units only come with the standard lance.
I used the dirt blaster lance to remove some flaky roof paint from my roof tiles.

www.kaercher.com

Kärcher DB 180 dirt blaster for K 7

Dirt blaster with powerful top rotary nozzle for Kärcher pressure washers in class K 7. For particularly stubborn dirt like that on mossy or weathered surfaces.
www.kaercher.com www.kaercher.com
 
HunterNW said:
@Smokey mcpot what's the correct way to plaster over lintel slabs ? Specialy the sides... chip them a bit for the plaster to grip, or ??
Click to expand...
Use some permobond and brush onto lintel first, then plaster as per normal with permobond mixed into mortar. We’ve never had issues.

some guys use the permobond to create a slush which they splash on to make it rough, and then plaster over that. Either way works fine.
 
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