The Home Improvements Thread (2)

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Smokey mcpot said:
Keep in mind that a decent wood is expensive.
Make sure to read what you’re getting when deciding.

clientof mine sitting in Australia. His wife paid a deposit before he could ask me for a quote. I eventually gave a quote which was about 2k more in price, but gave a lot more in value.
-automation
- finish
Mine included automation and galvanize along with epoxy coating. The other guy had none of the 2 and only a painted finish.

He eventually paid me to automate for him. Also asked me to give my review on the gate since he’s in Australia. I asked him to get someone else he trusts as my opinion could be biased.

so I’ll share with you. The gates were galvanized and painted with a pva paint and no primer. They did not a use a galvanized cleaner before painting either and this is clear as day. The overall finish looks very close to his neighbors gates which are at least 4 years old (that’s when I started doing maintenance for this specific client and the gates were never touched since then).
I won’t get into the fabrication method and welding methods. Was the first time in my life that I saw guys come onto a site with their steel in order to cut it to size. It still didn’t fit properly and he damaged my paint job as we had just painted and plastered the walls. Then came fitment... guys showed up with galvanized panels and welded them together on site. Rust waiting to happen!

now I’m not the best out there, but these guys did a terrible job. Worst of all is that they specialize in steel work.

if possible try and see previous work in person. Pictures don’t show imperfections.
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Thanks. I am not replacing it with wood - I want to get a steel gate without any wood
 
PhireSide said:
So a house we're looking at has an attached garage, but the interleading door is a French door with glass and the garage has a wooden sliding door on the other end (the end opposite to the roll-up garage door).

Apparently the architect said this is legal and complies with building code, but from my understanding of SANS 10400 the interleading door has to be a fire resistant door.

Anyone clued up on this stuff?
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Is it still being used a garage? The 2 new doors seem to suggest they are using it as something else?

If it is a garage it will need a fire rated door.
 
rodga said:
Is it still being used a garage? The 2 new doors seem to suggest they are using it as something else?

If it is a garage it will need a fire rated door.
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It is marketed as a garage on the listing. We've queried this to see if they are aware of this, but we're awaiting the word of the surveyor on this
 
SAguy said:
I can't say with any certainty or authority, but my understanding of it is the same as yours.
Although I highly doubt anyone will ever check, I'm just not sure if insurance will have anything to say about it if a fire starts in your garage.
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That's our concern as well.

It's no good we accept the current door and then a fire starts and we sit without a roof over our heads.
 
Does anyone know if e.g. Builders will stock this rubber/magnetized strips used for closing a shower 20201025_191220.jpgdoor?
 
RandomGeek said:
Does anyone know if e.g. Builders will stock this rubber/magnetized strips used for closing a shower View attachment 940046door?
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Not sure.. you can also try the magnet store:

magnetstore.co.za

Flexible Magnetic Strips

Buy Flexible Magnets in South Africa online today or visit our store! www.magnetstore.co.za carries a large inventory of Flexible magnets. Flexible magnets are available in a tile, sheets, strip and rolls. Contact us for custom sizing.
magnetstore.co.za
 
WAslayer said:
Not sure.. you can also try the magnet store:

magnetstore.co.za

Flexible Magnetic Strips

Buy Flexible Magnets in South Africa online today or visit our store! www.magnetstore.co.za carries a large inventory of Flexible magnets. Flexible magnets are available in a tile, sheets, strip and rolls. Contact us for custom sizing.
magnetstore.co.za
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Thanks good to know! Good prices too but for a 2m piece the courier charge will be more that the item price ;) Will prefer to pick it up somewhere in Jhb/Pta area if possible
 
Hi again,

Finally got my plans approved since submitting to CoCT in 2016. What a pain this has been.

Anyway, I need to build a garage and I'm trying to decide between clay bricks, cement bricks, or those big cinder blocks for the garage. I've seen many examples of these walls looking damp and sad after rain, with a damp pattern matching the mortar pattern externally visible, as well as white chalky deposits building up on the bricks after some time.

Is there a way to avoid this, or should I rather just stick to proper clay bricks?

Thanks.
 
bromster said:
Hi again,

Finally got my plans approved since submitting to CoCT in 2016. What a pain this has been.

Anyway, I need to build a garage and I'm trying to decide between clay bricks, cement bricks, or those big cinder blocks for the garage. I've seen many examples of these walls looking damp and sad after rain, with a damp pattern matching the mortar pattern externally visible, as well as white chalky deposits building up on the bricks after some time.

Is there a way to avoid this, or should I rather just stick to proper clay bricks?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
My humble 2c, clay bricks and and proper foundation with a damp proof course , so that rising damp stops at the DPC. Make sure the concrete floor in garage is strengthened with that metal grid, (think it's called rebar) to deal with weight of cars.
 
Need to frost two shower doors that I have. I know the default option is to buy the frosted glass film and stick it on, but I have my concerns about that as I don't trust myself to do it without leaving bubbles and obvious "las" marks. Noticed there is also a spray can option available. Any opinions on which will be the better option and any other tips? Also, Do I do it on the inside of the shower door or outside?
 
GrootBaas said:
Need to frost two shower doors that I have. I know the default option is to buy the frosted glass film and stick it on, but I have my concerns about that as I don't trust myself to do it without leaving bubbles and obvious "las" marks. Noticed there is also a spray can option available. Any opinions on which will be the better option and any other tips? Also, Do I do it on the inside of the shower door or outside?
Click to expand...
The spray stuff will only last a couple of years but it's easy to apply. It seems to gradually darken a couple of hours after you've sprayed it so be careful with how many coats you put on.

Spray it on the outside of the shower doors and make sure to tape along the edges.
 
wh
sandwitch said:
The spray stuff will only last a couple of years but it's easy to apply. It seems to gradually darken a couple of hours after you've sprayed it so be careful with how many coats you put on.

Spray it on the outside of the shower doors and make sure to tape along the edges.
Click to expand...
what he said.
Used spray on a window for our flat , as i did not want to buy a new window or have the guys fit a glass.
 
sandwitch said:
The spray stuff will only last a couple of years but it's easy to apply. It seems to gradually darken a couple of hours after you've sprayed it so be careful with how many coats you put on.

Spray it on the outside of the shower doors and make sure to tape along the edges.
Click to expand...
Thanks! Been googling around and your feedback looks to be spot on. Going to see if my local hardware store have it - I do plan to completely redo the bathroom within the next year or so anyway so easy application is a win for me.
 
GrootBaas said:
Thanks! Been googling around and your feedback looks to be spot on. Going to see if my local hardware store have it - I do plan to completely redo the bathroom within the next year or so anyway so easy application is a win for me.
Click to expand...

why not just leave it then?
 
Anyone know what product these guys are using. Seems light weight and pretty strong. Considering it instead of a concete slab.
2fd19e7df7b911103da0cf8507885afd.jpg
462b314f132ca837157688a3af827d28.jpg


4.48 if you want to see.

 
Steamy Tom said:
why not just leave it then?
Click to expand...
It's been bothering me and I'm on a DIY mission at the moment.

Anyway, so did the spray thing last night. At first I thought I messed up as it didn't look even after the first few layers. However just kept going adding layer after layer (waiting in between for it to dry first) until I emptied the can.

Pretty happy with the results. Just a looooot of the white powdery dust that goes everywhere to deal with afterwards, so my tip will be to clear the room as much as possible first so that it's easy to cleanup afterwards.
 
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