The Home Improvements Thread (2)

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chickenbeef said:
Is this a regulation? What about ceiling fans then? The fan and light is 1 unit.
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Didn't ask about that at the time, so couldn't tell you... perhaps it's and exception because the electricity supply is a single unit or connector terminal.. for my extractor fan, there were different terminals for each of the functions, light, heat lamps and fan..
 
The_Mowgs said:
It would need to be insulated because I have a double garage and then another double garage built after that, but sharing the same roof. So its basically 2 double garages with one set of single doors with a pillar in the middle.

The other 2 garages will be used for woodworking and a gym so needs to be suitable regarding temperature.
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Ok don't get roll up then. The top part where it rolls is where the air moves in.
 
chickenbeef said:
Is this a regulation? What about ceiling fans then? The fan and light is 1 unit.
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With a ceiling fan you need a double pole switch according to my last sparky, so both live and neutral is turned off at the switch.

With an extractor I was advised by my sparky to have an isolator switch before the extractor. Can be on same light circuit but have an isolator so you can completely turn it off before working on it. Or one of those small 5A plugs in the ceiling, just not a normal size plug that some genius plugs a grinder into.
 
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The_Mowgs said:
Which garage doors are better, the roll up or the one that disengage in sections whilst pulling up towards the roof? I currently have the latter but moving to a new place soon and need to automate a double garage with 2 single wooden doors, which is rotten.

Pros and cons between the different doors and what costs am I looking at?

Any tips when doing this? And no, no penis tips please.
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Personally prefer the sectional doors. Looks nicer and seems to operate better.

The roll up doors are easier to break into. I wont mention the methods for obvious reasons. Then also with automation, the roll up door motors are very sensitive to moisture for some reason. Have heard the newer ET motor is better, but no personal experience with it.
 
I have roll up doors and do not like them. With the frequent windy weather in Cape Town dust always makes its way in through the gap at the top.

DIY automating them was easy though.
 
ToxicBunny said:
Depends on the space you have and all that, I don't think there is any massive benefit one way or the other.

I personally have a sectional door as I just think they provide a better overall look when closed.

When I did mine a good number of years ago the door and motor for a double garage sectional door was around R14k...
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Concur. Sectional doors look nicer. Some nice alu-zinc ones in different colours and you can even put glass in them.

Mines has two small glass panels to give it an even more modern look. Brings natural light into garage and also looks quite snazzy - every person that has come to visit us - has commented on garage door positively

Picture shows when it was installed and still had plastic protective wrapping. Screenshot_20210520-094454.jpg
 
Yeah, I opted to not go with the glass panels and such when mine was done, just the "wood" look since it suited the style that I was stamping onto the house.
(bit of a kak photo)

IMG_20150314_150245_nopm_.jpg
 
yeah if you go with a double sectional door, highly recommend going alu-zinc, otherwise to balance the door for a motor is a pain in the behind. Ask me how I know. Moved into a house with fibre double sectional door. Balancing aint fun on it.
 
*update*

Found another architect.
Charge is 8k for
1. Draw current plan
2. Draw changes
3. 3d drawing
4. Draw plan for council submission
5. Submit plans for approval
(I must pay council fees +/-800)

For an extra R3k he will do a 3d look of what the house can look like with face lifts.
 
Thats going to cost a small fortune.

There is significant structural work in that facelift.
 
Was thinking of putting manure in my vegetable patch and fruit trees in the coming weeks.

Has anyone done this previously, what product did you use, how much did you apply and how did you apply it.
 
BadBoyGP said:
*update*

Found another architect.
Charge is 8k for
1. Draw current plan
2. Draw changes
3. 3d drawing
4. Draw plan for council submission
5. Submit plans for approval
(I must pay council fees +/-800)

For an extra R3k he will do a 3d look of what the house can look like with face lifts.
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Architect or draughtsman? That's very cheap for an architect. You can always check his sacap registration number to see what he is registered as.
 
rodga said:
Architect or draughtsman? That's very cheap for an architect. You can always check his sacap registration number to see what he is registered as.
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Will do.

He is charging me R200 m² for the additional, redrawing is around R1500.

I got the council plans my self.

I drew the extension on the older plan, he just has to do it professionally.
And submit.
 
Miss my koi pond. Had one that was 1.5m* 3m and 1m deep. Building a smaller one in the back. Will add a stream going to the back to left section in the pic.

Water is directly from my well with no filtration. 20210522_115353.jpg20210522_145131.jpg20210522_145849.jpg
 
WAslayer said:
Plans to keep it clean..? Remember the nightmare my dad went through keeping his little pond lined with plastic clean..
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Previous pond was under a tree and the only issue was the leaves that would sink to the bottom and clog up the pump.

I've always just used biological filtration with plastic lined ponds and had crystal clear water. The smaller one at the end of the stream will be my biological filter with various plants. The pump will pump clear water up to the main pond via an in line uv light to keep algae in check.

Will probably only get koi in a few months after the pond had had some time to settle.
 
Busy day today. First I had to replace one side panel of my nepphews double bunk bed. You'd swear that decofurn makes wooden furniture from cork.

What I also realised that they use these bolts, so you need to drill multiple holes similar to a camlock... but they are made from Chinatown grade metal so strip themselves like it's nothing...

You can see thew new hard wood panel I made in the background.
20210522_165055.jpg


Then in preparation for paving being done next week I moered this vibracrete panel out. @Smokey mcpot will do a new gate for me in the next couple of weeks. But marvel at my amazing makeshift "door" held in place by a few threaded bolts and nuts.

20210522_182124.jpg
20210522_182504.jpg
 
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