The Home Improvements Thread (2)

Status
Not open for further replies.
Genuine ??? Wtf .... Nopes, our municipality is so fcked, if you submit a plan they'll all kak themselves.
Any structure bigger than 3 or 4 square meters (can't remember which), including garden sheds, need approval.
 
My gatemotor's wire goes straight into the garage with a 3 point plug :D
I have mine inside a locked db box near my gate. Why would I want skelms to be able to turn off my gate motor. No thanks.
 
Roof vents (sample attached) - yes or no? Im not asking about that specific model, more about the general concept. Does it work well, and any issues you need to be aware of (noise/lubrication/rain intrusion/insects getting in etc)?

I see these more in industrial or commercial settings and rarely in residential settings and was wondering why
 

Attachments

  • images (2).jpeg
    images (2).jpeg
    8.3 KB · Views: 33
Roof vents (sample attached) - yes or no? Im not asking about that specific model, more about the general concept. Does it work well, and any issues you need to be aware of (noise/lubrication/rain intrusion/insects getting in etc)?

I see these more in industrial or commercial settings and rarely in residential settings and was wondering why
There are 2 in our neighbourhood. Both on the chimneys of Braais. One in fact is my neighbor.
On day 1 and 2 it made a squeaky noise while spinning. Eventually went away. Now its quiet. I think it is a great idea to pull out the braai smoke. Heat goes up, it spins, and pulls more air out.Win.
 
There are 2 in our neighbourhood. Both on the chimneys of Braais. One in fact is my neighbor.
On day 1 and 2 it made a squeaky noise while spinning. Eventually went away. Now its quiet. I think it is a great idea to pull out the braai smoke. Heat goes up, it spins, and pulls more air out.Win.
Yeah i have seen these too. Only difference I reckon between the "braai" vents and the regular ones is these are rated for heat. Otherwise identical basic design
 
Roof vents (sample attached) - yes or no? Im not asking about that specific model, more about the general concept. Does it work well, and any issues you need to be aware of (noise/lubrication/rain intrusion/insects getting in etc)?

I see these more in industrial or commercial settings and rarely in residential settings and was wondering why

I dont think you need one to be honest if you dont have issues in your roof space. If you want to vent a bathroom rather an extractor with ducting.
 
I dont think you need one to be honest if you dont have issues in your roof space. If you want to vent a bathroom rather an extractor with ducting.
If it meaningfully reduces the temperature in the roof it may be useful...but then will it be as good as stuffing the roof full of insulation? I know, I know, how long is a piece of string, but was hoping someone had some first hand experience
 
Yeah i have seen these too. Only difference I reckon between the "braai" vents and the regular ones is these are rated for heat. Otherwise identical basic design
They are both the same, no difference.. the whole premise of this vent is that it is designed to work based on convection.. Enough hot air rising causes it to start spinning and the spinning action then helps to draw hot air out..

Many different ways roofs are vented and in SA we have just been sticking to the static venting methods..
 
If it meaningfully reduces the temperature in the roof it may be useful...but then will it be as good as stuffing the roof full of insulation? I know, I know, how long is a piece of string, but was hoping someone had some first hand experience

I have insulation and can tell you that, if my roof space was vented with one of these, it would make no difference to the temperature in my house at all.. I have 150mm insulation and the thinner the insulation, the less effective it is..

Also, depending on the type of roof/ root tiles you have, installing and properly water proofing this thing would be an absolute nightmare.. I have cement roof tiles and to install this thing, I imagine I would have build out a frame for it to mount to between the trusses, somehow have it raised up in line with the roof tiles and then find a way to waterproof it properly and then ensure the waterproofing is maintained..

I would choose the insulation over the vent, any day of the week..
 
If it meaningfully reduces the temperature in the roof it may be useful...but then will it be as good as stuffing the roof full of insulation? I know, I know, how long is a piece of string, but was hoping someone had some first hand experience

insulation at least has a duel purpose though imo
 
I have insulation and can tell you that, if my roof space was vented with one of these, it would make no difference to the temperature in my house at all.. I have 150mm insulation and the thinner the insulation, the less effective it is..

Also, depending on the type of roof/ root tiles you have, installing and properly water proofing this thing would be an absolute nightmare.. I have cement roof tiles and to install this thing, I imagine I would have build out a frame for it to mount to between the trusses, somehow have it raised up in line with the roof tiles and then find a way to waterproof it properly and then ensure the waterproofing is maintained..

I would choose the insulation over the vent, any day of the week..
Yep, sealing around the vents to stop water intrusion would be very important. And, depending on the size of the house, you would need multiple vents. Insulation is an easy install and no maintenance, agreed
 
Morning

a quick and easy way to set my Centurion D5 (non wifi) to manual please.

I have earth leakage due to heavy rain on my roof I cannot open my gate.


Roof leakage will be dealt with but my Db board earth leakage keep on tripping only after heavy rain.

thanks
 
Morning

a quick and easy way to set my Centurion D5 (non wifi) to manual please.

I have earth leakage due to heavy rain on my roof I cannot open my gate.


Roof leakage will be dealt with but my Db board earth leakage keep on tripping only after heavy rain.

thanks

you open the small front flap and turn the knob to flip to manual
 
So for those in CT. I'm guessing you need building plans to change a window size...even if it it's a small increase and mostly just change in orientation?
 
So for those in CT. I'm guessing you need building plans to change a window size...even if it it's a small increase and mostly just change in orientation?

Minor works that do not need approval include:

Replacement of windows or doors– provided the existing frames aren’t load bearing, and that openings aren’t enlarged or that any openings needed for fire escapes aren’t removed

They don't say anything about removing or making them smaller / changing orientation but I wouldn't be surprised if you needed approval...
 
So for those in CT. I'm guessing you need building plans to change a window size...even if it it's a small increase and mostly just change in orientation?
If the window size increases in anyway, plans are required and/or if the frame is load bearing..

Orientation change does not require plans, unless of course you have one or both of the above happening..
 
I've tried one of these new fancy shmancy emergency LED bulbs and they are quite cool:

They work like a normal bulb, but if the power is completely off then the light switch still works to turn them on and off.

How does the lamp know the difference between light switch activation and power outage?
- The internal emergency management IC will detect the voltage of L and N
- When the voltage of a single line is cut off (light switch activation), there are still neutral voltages so the lamp will not go into emergency mode.


What is the effect of the lamp switching if there is no other load on the switched circuit?
- The emergency lamp will activate in emergency mode only when the IC cannot detect any voltage in the input cable (power outage), and when a loop is present in the external circuit. The loop is created by other components on the same electrical circuit within the installation.
- In this scenario, the resistance between L and N is very small and the IC can detect this


What conditions make the lampwork during a power outage?
- When the IC cannot detect any voltage from the input cable (power outage)
- When a loop is present in the external circuitry. This loop is created by other components on the same electrical circuit within the installation. In this scenario, the resistance between L and N is very small and the IC can detect this.

Works well but I'm having a strange issue.
The light switch which controls the fixture I've put this bulb in is a 2 gang switch. 1 switch for this fixture and the other switch is for an outside light which is on a day/night switch. The switch on the wall for this outside light is therefore always on.

Now during the day everything operates normally, if I simulate loadshedding by turning off my mains then the bulb operates in emergency mode as expected with the lightswitch.

However, at night with mains power on when the outside light is activated because the day night switch kicked in - then when I turn the inside light off it goes into emergency mode. If I switch off both switches then emergency mode (and of course outside light) goes off. Switch outside light back on and inside bulb goes into emergency mode.

There is obviously something funky with currents and there clever ICs going on with the day night switch - but I have no idea what. Will probably contact them to find out.
 
Roof vents (sample attached) - yes or no? Im not asking about that specific model, more about the general concept. Does it work well, and any issues you need to be aware of (noise/lubrication/rain intrusion/insects getting in etc)?

I see these more in industrial or commercial settings and rarely in residential settings and was wondering why
I have one, and the only advantage I have found is that it gives me a spot to cool down when I need to work on cabling in the ceiling. I can only feel it if I stand directly below it. So, in my opinion it was a waste to get it.
 
I had a plumber out to deal with a clogged drain and he chucked some acid down the drain that just completely obliterated all it came in contact with other than the pipe..

Anyone know what acid he might have used and where I could procure it..?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top
Sign up to the MyBroadband newsletter
X