The Home Improvements Thread (2)

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Mike Hoxbig said:
F that, I'm no handyman. I have a decent understanding of how things work, I just hate doing the actual work...
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I don't mind DIY but building work i know fokol about. Give me iron or wood but keep bricks, tiles etc far away.
 
HunterNW said:
I don't mind DIY but building work i know fokol about. Give me iron or wood but keep bricks, tiles etc far away.
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My plan in a few years is to get my son to do it while I direct him. Might throw in a few "back in my day"'s as motivation, he doesn't need to know the truth. Bigger jobs might get a PS/Xbox game. Still cheaper than hiring someone...
 
Tiling is easy, but only if the Plasterer has done his job correctly. Which unfortunately 9/10 never happens.
 
So I noticed that while water was being routed to the solar heating panels on roof, there was a rather constant drip emanating from the section highlighted. I can't figure out where but it's there.

So I put the solar panels on bypass as seen in pic, so technically water shouldn't be going up there. It still drips but much less. I think I already know what it means , probably the valve has failed slightly.

But ignoring the valve for now, which I will monitor, is the best solution to replace that air release section or just silicone or whatever around it. Don't want to get pool guys in if I can help.

ThxIMG_20220408_142531~2.jpg
 
Anyone know of a kitchen installer who can cut ceasor stone (and who can install a undercover oven and hob). Please pm me
 
LoneWalker said:
Hi . looking for advice on wood burning fire place . something good but budget friendly
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Depends on your needs. Do you want an open face or closed combustion unit?

Do you want to spend cheap now and again in 5 years or do you want something that will be around a long time? Do you want a free standing unit or one that will fit into an existing fire place or a new built in unit? How big is the room that you want to heat?
 
TedLasso said:
So I noticed that while water was being routed to the solar heating panels on roof, there was a rather constant drip emanating from the section highlighted. I can't figure out where but it's there.

So I put the solar panels on bypass as seen in pic, so technically water shouldn't be going up there. It still drips but much less. I think I already know what it means , probably the valve has failed slightly.

But ignoring the valve for now, which I will monitor, is the best solution to replace that air release section or just silicone or whatever around it. Don't want to get pool guys in if I can help.

ThxView attachment 1286018
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The slower drip is due to lower pressure from the left over water above bypass. If the drip is at a joint then pratley putty will handle pressure better than silicon
 
Can anyone spot the problem here(aside from the shoddy pipe connections):

c06eb8fc7fa69d6443dcc8a2c40962e5.jpg


If you guessed a missing vent, congratulations.. for the longest time I couldn't figure out why the toilet is not flushing properly and today, as I looked at the water pushing up in the bowl while flushing, I realized that there is nowhere for air to go.. opened the access cover on the elbow and flushed.. rather unsurprisingly, the toilet flushed like a dream..

Onto my question then, any chance you get an access plate and vent in one..? Hoping this is a thing, as a temp solution..

I don't have the money to fix this properly, which is going to require breaking into the wall to get the connection of the elbow to remove it.. considering that effort, I might as well then also have the bottom of the pipe fixed properly as well, which means more concrete breaking etc..
 
WAslayer said:
Can anyone spot the problem here(aside from the shoddy pipe connections):

c06eb8fc7fa69d6443dcc8a2c40962e5.jpg


If you guessed a missing vent, congratulations.. for the longest time I couldn't figure out why the toilet is not flushing properly and today, as I looked at the water pushing up in the bowl while flushing, I realized that there is nowhere for air to go.. opened the access cover on the elbow and flushed.. rather unsurprisingly, the toilet flushed like a dream..

Onto my question then, any chance you get an access plate and vent in one..? Hoping this is a thing, as a temp solution..

I don't have the money to fix this properly, which is going to require breaking into the wall to get the connection of the elbow to remove it.. considering that effort, I might as well then also have the bottom of the pipe fixed properly as well, which means more concrete breaking etc..
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if it were me I would probably take that access plate lid, hole saw a 50mm hole into it, put a 50mm pvc ~1m high into it, pvc weld the shiz out of it (maybe even with a gusset or something, try make it as flush as possible on the bottom and put a vent fitting on top of the new 50mm pvc. If anything goes wrong etc you can just replace the access cover.

or hole saw it, use a threaded fitting with a rubber washer and a nut, go into a 45 then up with a 50mm

second option probably better

or you can try a strap on boss (yes it is a thing) but space is limited there
 
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ElixirCoder said:
Depends on your needs. Do you want an open face or closed combustion unit?

Do you want to spend cheap now and again in 5 years or do you want something that will be around a long time? Do you want a free standing unit or one that will fit into an existing fire place or a new built in unit? How big is the room that you
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I want a warm house . My research says a combustion unit and cheap doesn't last .
 
A decent slow combustion is something you buy for the next couple of owners of your house.

You only get another one when you move somewhere new that doesn't have one and you realized you can't live without it.
 
Arzy said:
A decent slow combustion is something you buy for the next couple of owners of your house.

You only get another one when you move somewhere new that doesn't have one and you realized you can't live without it.
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do you have a brand
 
My neighbours burn their fireplace from the first thought of coldness (so in other words have started for the year) through to at least september. The smell is fscking disgusting and means even on a decent day or if the house is stuffy we can't open a door or window. Wish people would stop burning things on a constant basis in resedential areas, this isn't Siberia.
 
Steamy Tom said:
My neighbours burn their fireplace from the first thought of coldness (so in other words have started for the year) through to at least september. The smell is fscking disgusting and means even on a decent day or if the house is stuffy we can't open a door or window. Wish people would stop burning things on a constant basis in resedential areas, this isn't Siberia.
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I thought we were friends
 
Steamy Tom said:
if it were me I would probably take that access plate lid, hole saw a 50mm hole into it, put a 50mm pvc ~1m high into it, pvc weld the shiz out of it (maybe even with a gusset or something, try make it as flush as possible on the bottom and put a vent fitting on top of the new 50mm pvc. If anything goes wrong etc you can just replace the access cover.

or hole saw it, use a threaded fitting with a rubber washer and a nut, go into a 45 then up with a 50mm

second option probably better

or you can try a strap on boss (yes it is a thing) but space is limited there
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Yeah, that's a good DIY way and I haven't started thinking that direction, because it's going to take time I don't have right now, versus the 10 minutes to replace the existing cover with one that has a vent already, should it exist..
 
WAslayer said:
Yeah, that's a good DIY way and I haven't started thinking that direction, because it's going to take time I don't have right now, versus the 10 minutes to replace the existing cover with one that has a vent already, should it exist..
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Yeah I have never seen what you are looking for and I have seen a moderate amount of plumbing and hardware
 
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