The Home Improvements Thread (2)

Status
Not open for further replies.
ahmedy said:
Guys, how do I stop my toilet from leaking into the bowl. I had tried to fiddle with everything possible in the cistern but have no idea what to change or adjust. The cistern constantly fills very slightly and the bowl leaks very slightly. If I closer the tap, the cistern will empty itself
Click to expand...
Take out the red plastic tube. There is a washer at the bottom that needs replacing
 
ahmedy said:
Do I simply pull out the red plastic tube or unscrew it? Asking so that I don't break it
Click to expand...
Clip the thin arm out. The red tube either pulls straight up, or it must be turned about a quarter turn before being removed.
 
Any advice on how to connect a P trap to an outlet drain in the wall in a way that doesn't result in leaking?

No matter how tight I fasten that clamp there's still a slow leak.
 
DrX said:
Any advice on how to connect a P trap to an outlet drain in the wall in a way that doesn't result in leaking?

No matter how tight I fasten that clamp there's still a slow leak.
Click to expand...

Can you show us a picture? what type of clamp are you using, what size is the PVC pipe, what size is the trap end. How old is the trap?
 
The end of the P trap going over the outlet pipe in the wall (40mm) is where the slow leak happens.


There is a 40-50mm reducer fitted (with PVC) cement on the outlet pipe for the P trap to slip over snug (second pic)

New trap fitted but started leaking when the plumber left
 

Attachments

  • P trap.jpg
    P trap.jpg
    197.1 KB · Views: 79
  • Drain outlet.jpg
    Drain outlet.jpg
    268.2 KB · Views: 79
clean off that adaptor they put on properly, use some mr min or something to get the sticker off, then really tighten that clamp, should not leak. not the greatest though you will always have water sitting in that pipe against the fitting because of the lip
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: DrX
Steamy Tom said:
clean off that adaptor they put on properly, use some mr min or something to get the sticker off, then really tighten that clamp, should not leak. not the greatest though you will always have water sitting in that pipe against the fitting because of the lip
Click to expand...
And add a thin layer of silicone sealer before refitting the pipe. Wait until the silicone has cured before using the taps.
 
What would be the most economical way to finish of this section of roofing. This is an outbuilding that was here when we bought the house.
b6866dcd39fb7ad7452e69c42cbb24eb.jpg
58e6e3432e914615476112043e92f7b3.jpg
 
Claymore said:
We've been living in renovation hell for a couple of months. So much done on a new house:
  • Tiled almost the entire house (it had mixtures of tiles, laminate, and vinyl).
  • Gutted the granny flat, tiled, painted, kitchen going in, redid the bathroom/shower completely.
  • Re-paved the driveway/courtyard to get rid of a major slope.
  • Giant 9x6 carport.
  • Intercom.
  • Security gates and trellidoors.
  • Painted the house inside.
  • Replaced most plugs and switches with modern ones. New lights in several rooms.
  • Replacing most light globes (it had a mixture of LED, CFL, halogen, in warm and cool white). Replacing most downlighters too.
  • Painted the white electrical cables on the facebrick walls.
  • Redid the bathroom in granny flat #2 and hung a sliding door (it didn't have a door!)
  • Replacing several internal doors.
  • Removed an upstairs bar with dropped ceiling, sanded the floor, and a study desk is going in.
  • Re-did some electrics which were dodgy.
  • Roof over roller shutter door going in (it was open to the rain).
  • Somewhat waterproofed the existing garage and carport.
  • Mini geyser going in in the kitchen because the water takes 3-4 min to get hot.
  • Fixed some sliding doors.
  • New alarm system.
Getting there...
Click to expand...
Well done. I am about to go through the same pain of tiling the entire hiouse and painting plus radioing kitchen. Any tips with the benefit of hindsight
 
Wirox said:
Well done. I am about to go through the same pain of tiling the entire hiouse and painting plus radioing kitchen. Any tips with the benefit of hindsight
Click to expand...
Tape up cupboards, it cuts down on dust getting into them. You'll still live with dust for weeks though. If you have a good tiler, things should go well, and they'll be able to transition between different levels nicely. Chances are you'll need to trim the bottom off some doors (the tile level may be higher). Do tile skirting anywhere you have tiles, it's neat, and in a kitchen, will help reduce water getting into the wood of the kitchen cabinets. If you have a desk or somewhere you sit, it may be worth tiling up the wall a bit; cuts down on marks on the painted wall from your feet. The squarer the tile (vs. long tiles), the easier it is to compensate for any unevenness in the floor; long tiles will show differences much more quickly. 3mm grout is only good on floors that are dead level and smooth; if not, they'll need 5mm to help adjust.

Good luck!
 
Gonna pop this question in here.

Looking to try source a fair length (25m) of IP68 LED Neon strip to put around the edging of my new pool.
Before I go trawling the chinese sites to try bring it in, does anyone know of any decent local suppliers for such a product?
 
ToxicBunny said:
Gonna pop this question in here.

Looking to try source a fair length (25m) of IP68 LED Neon strip to put around the edging of my new pool.
Before I go trawling the chinese sites to try bring it in, does anyone know of any decent local suppliers for such a product?
Click to expand...
Try www.futurelight.co.za

I bought some 12V flood-lights before, ordered online, they seem to stock a lot of 12V products
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top
Sign up to the MyBroadband newsletter
X