The Home Improvements Thread (2)

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Gonna pop this question in here.

Looking to try source a fair length (25m) of IP68 LED Neon strip to put around the edging of my new pool.
Before I go trawling the chinese sites to try bring it in, does anyone know of any decent local suppliers for such a product?
I only know of Ledz in PE, but they do deliver nationwide.

Speak to Jesse - LED Lighting Suppliers (ledz.co.za)
 
Ta guys, let me get in touch with them... Did have a look at their sites but nothing jumped out at me as being suitable.

*Gulp*
Got a quote back from LEDZ, just shy of R5k... eina.. but in all honesty not entirely unexpected.
 
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Please advise on the best way to treat and paint palisade fencing? It has rusted on multiple spots and current paint is bubbling/peeling.

So the existing peeling paint needs to be scraped/brushed and then painted. What is the best undercoat/rust prevention and paint?
 
Please advise on the best way to treat and paint palisade fencing? It has rusted on multiple spots and current paint is bubbling/peeling.

So the existing peeling paint needs to be scraped/brushed and then painted. What is the best undercoat/rust prevention and paint?

I would tend towards a decent etching primer on the metal to try minimise the chances of it peeling again in the future.

**EDIT**
But much sanding and surface prep will be needed, you need to get that surface as clean and tidy as possible.
I'm looking at embarking on a similar project in the near future of painting an ugly white patio awning I have on the property...
 
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Ta guys, let me get in touch with them... Did have a look at their sites but nothing jumped out at me as being suitable.

*Gulp*
Got a quote back from LEDZ, just shy of R5k... eina.. but in all honesty not entirely unexpected.
Ja I think that's more or less the cost...suppose you could get cheaper from elsewhere but with them being close to chlorinated water, I'd rather spend a little more for the peace of mind
 
Ja I think that's more or less the cost...suppose you could get cheaper from elsewhere but with them being close to chlorinated water, I'd rather spend a little more for the peace of mind

Yeah, I'm not about to cut corners on this one.. IP68 or its just not gonna happen, but I will hunt around a bit. I have a month or so to try find the right product since the pool shell still needs to actually be made.
 
Please advise on the best way to treat and paint palisade fencing? It has rusted on multiple spots and current paint is bubbling/peeling.

So the existing peeling paint needs to be scraped/brushed and then painted. What is the best undercoat/rust prevention and paint?
Did something similar earlier this year.

Alot of elbow grease to get it as clean as possible. And then used Duram NS4 primer. No other issues so far.
 
We seem to be going through thermostats, we are on our 4th one in the past year. Would you blame load shedding for this? Or is it a symptom of another problem?

I usually only buy the kwikot ones but I needed one urgently the one day and this was all build-it had. Its about 3 months old. Why would it look like this? Water?

2022-06-27 14.17.40.jpg2022-06-27 14.17.45.jpg
 
We seem to be going through thermostats, we are on our 4th one in the past year. Would you blame load shedding for this? Or is it a symptom of another problem?

I usually only buy the kwikot ones but I needed one urgently the one day and this was all build-it had. Its about 3 months old. Why would it look like this? Water?

View attachment 1336500View attachment 1336504
When last have you inspected/replaced your sacrificial anode?
 
We seem to be going through thermostats, we are on our 4th one in the past year. Would you blame load shedding for this? Or is it a symptom of another problem?

I usually only buy the kwikot ones but I needed one urgently the one day and this was all build-it had. Its about 3 months old. Why would it look like this? Water?

View attachment 1336500View attachment 1336504
I have had the same issue, if you take yours apart you will most likely also find a hot spot from a badly made connection. I went through three of them in short succession.
It seems that you eventually get one that lasts.

My current one must have escaped the QC check be cause its still working after about six months.:cool:
 
The geyser is only about 5 years old, when should you check it? We don't have hard water here anyway.
Apparently every two years is a good measure, but I reckon it could go a bit more if your water is decent.
 
Hi all,
Anyone have any idea where I can get replacement quick release toilet seat hinges in SA? Like the ones in the photo. The black hard-plastic section of ours has disintegrated after 7 years and need to replace. Difficult to replace the entire seat due to the particular shape of it - I only seem to find similar hinges listed on the Fruugo and Manicaa type sites, which seem to be China based, so not going down that road...

Not even sure what this hinge-type is called to narrow down the search?
Already tired the usual plumbing and bathroom brick and mortar places in our area, without luck...
Toilet Seat Hinge Quick Release.jpg
 
So, this water pipe for one of my toilets started leaking. If I close , leak stops. It's appears the doodah has failed.

I was going to call a plumber to fix then saw the replacement at a Mica. Was surprised to see it gets screwed in. There were multiple brands and all were the same. I bought the one in second pic as it was the most expensive and has '5 year guarantee'

I was pleasantly surprised to see that it's screwed in as I had thought it could have been welded in or a tile would have to be broken.

Now hoping to save me some rondelas, as I have inverter, and other big costs this month:- I am thinking I could just do it myself. So need an opinion from some experts.

Is the method I want to use correct:-
Turn off water supply at municipal side
Run cold water taps to drain water.
Ensure toilet cistern is empty
Bucket under fitting
Unscrew hose
Unscrew fitting from wall (hope very little water comes out)
On new fitting, put plumbers tape on both sides of fitting
Screw in both sides
Turn on municipal feed
Hope there no leaks (worst fear: leak starts inside wall)

I have replaced toilet valves and o ring between cistern and bowl and taps etc but that appears to be easy compared to a connection to the main plumbing.

Also if I called a plumber to do this, what should be the expected cost?

IMG_20220704_182713.jpgIMG_20220704_182719.jpg
 
So, this water pipe for one of my toilets started leaking. If I close , leak stops. It's appears the doodah has failed.

I was going to call a plumber to fix then saw the replacement at a Mica. Was surprised to see it gets screwed in. There were multiple brands and all were the same. I bought the one in second pic as it was the most expensive and has '5 year guarantee'

I was pleasantly surprised to see that it's screwed in as I had thought it could have been welded in or a tile would have to be broken.

Now hoping to save me some rondelas, as I have inverter, and other big costs this month:- I am thinking I could just do it myself. So need an opinion from some experts.

Is the method I want to use correct:-
Turn off water supply at municipal side
Run cold water taps to drain water.
Ensure toilet cistern is empty
Bucket under fitting
Unscrew hose
Unscrew fitting from wall (hope very little water comes out)
On new fitting, put plumbers tape on both sides of fitting
Screw in both sides
Turn on municipal feed
Hope there no leaks (worst fear: leak starts inside wall)

I have replaced toilet valves and o ring between cistern and bowl and taps etc but that appears to be easy compared to a connection to the main plumbing.

Also if I called a plumber to do this, what should be the expected cost?

View attachment 1340344View attachment 1340346
Goeie donner. Moerse long read. You are correct in your planning.
What is a doodah ???
 
So, this water pipe for one of my toilets started leaking. If I close , leak stops. It's appears the doodah has failed.

I was going to call a plumber to fix then saw the replacement at a Mica. Was surprised to see it gets screwed in. There were multiple brands and all were the same. I bought the one in second pic as it was the most expensive and has '5 year guarantee'

I was pleasantly surprised to see that it's screwed in as I had thought it could have been welded in or a tile would have to be broken.

Now hoping to save me some rondelas, as I have inverter, and other big costs this month:- I am thinking I could just do it myself. So need an opinion from some experts.

Is the method I want to use correct:-
Turn off water supply at municipal side
Run cold water taps to drain water.
Ensure toilet cistern is empty
Bucket under fitting
Unscrew hose
Unscrew fitting from wall (hope very little water comes out)
On new fitting, put plumbers tape on both sides of fitting
Screw in both sides
Turn on municipal feed
Hope there no leaks (worst fear: leak starts inside wall)

I have replaced toilet valves and o ring between cistern and bowl and taps etc but that appears to be easy compared to a connection to the main plumbing.

Also if I called a plumber to do this, what should be the expected cost?

View attachment 1340344View attachment 1340346
Correct sequence imo. Also add a few towels to the list, just in case.
 
Goeie donner. Moerse long read. You are correct in your planning.
What is a doodah ???
That part I need to replace - apparently a 3/4 round something - sorry I was in bed freezing my ass off when I wrote that post.
 
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