LaraC
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I'm sure an angled isolation valve will do the trick.
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The Home Improvements Thread (2)
- Thread starter TedLasso
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Do these turn the water on and off? There's already a tap that does that above the counter, so I guess I'd just need a connector without the valve. What would that be called?I'm sure an angled isolation valve will do the trick.
LaraC
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Do a search on compression elbows. It might be what you are looking for.
The compression elbow looks like it might work for the outlet pipe, but then this needs something to screw onto:Do a search on compression elbows. It might be what you are looking for.
This looks right? This thing? https://www.builders.co.za/Plumbing/Pipes-&-Fittings/Compression-Fittings/Builders-Compression-Elbow-Reducer-CXMI-(22-x-15mm)/p/000000000000152122
LaraC
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Yes, that's the one.
Thanks for your help!Yes, that's the one.
howardb
Expert Member
Ours do, yes. The fan unit is mounted in the plasterboard ceiling, no vent pipe in the roof.
Mike Hoxbig
Honorary Master
Same here.Ours do, yes. The fan unit is mounted in the plasterboard ceiling, no vent pipe in the roof.
It may look ancient and isn't the quietest thing in the world, but I know it works well and I'm hesitant to fix stuff that isn't broken...
Interesting! I'm guessing the ceiling doesn't have mould/moisture issues from the air going up there and not being piped to the outside? The one I'm looking at replacing would probably be the same I reckon, but I'll be sure to check.Ours do, yes. The fan unit is mounted in the plasterboard ceiling, no vent pipe in the roof.
howardb
Expert Member
No damp or mold issues at all in the ceiling space, been fitted a number of years now. I usually leave our extraction fans running 10-15 mins after using the shower and the steam just dissipates into the roof space, no condensation at all up there
Mike Hoxbig
Honorary Master
Nope, no issues. Keep in mind that the typical ceiling isn't exactly air tight to begin with.
And if you have a geyser overflow pipe leading outside, that's an additional outlet to vent...
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Speedster
Honorary Master
Yes you can. I have one
Uhm I've just gotten out of winter and my pool is still crystal clear
Also to the original question there is paver paint you can get. It's designed for paving, my dad did his 20 years ago and still stands up.
Paving paint GRIPSEAL Pavecote Ashford 5L
For use of porous paving, concrete, floors, common brick, cement brick, tiled roofs and plant pots. Pavecote is highly durable, abrasion, UV and hot-tyre pick up resistant. Water based and weatherproof, it is also environmentally friendly.leroymerlin.co.za
Indeed, in this case we were still busy with the major Reno and haven't moved into the house so CE we bought it over two years ago.
Guess biting the bullet on that will probably be the best to go for.
Doesn't need to last forever just long enough for us to at least recover enough financially to do proper landscaping in the back, and do the pool house/entertainment area just off camera.
The rough section where the balustrades were spray painted which currently looks like trash, which is forcing the painting essentially.
The state of the pool (poo)
Lupus
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Yeah my pool looked like that when we moved in, found a dead haeda in it. Got it cleared but it took a lot of balancing the chemicals, once that was done than lots and lots of chlorine
The rough section where the balustrades were spray painted which currently looks like trash, which is forcing the painting essentially.
The state of the pool (poo)
ToxicBunny
Oi! Leave me out of this...
Joy of joys... Pools is installed and paving is apparently done but the grouting is already crumbling and some pavers are loose.
How fscking hard is it to find someone to do a job right the first fscking time. Unfortunately for this contractor I still hold the last portion of money.
How fscking hard is it to find someone to do a job right the first fscking time. Unfortunately for this contractor I still hold the last portion of money.
The rough section where the balustrades were spray painted which currently looks like trash, which is forcing the painting essentially.
The state of the pool (poo)
What's that? A chestnut tree?
TedLasso
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Stupid question:-
One of my geysers is connected to a CBI smart switch. It's also fed by heat pump so hence it took a while to work out what I am about to describe :-
About 3 days ago, geyser element had just turned on , when we had load shedding and house lost total power (battery was flat on inverter). Geyser on non-essential side FWIW
I didn't realise it at the time, but it looks like element 'failed' during that time. I am not getting current/draw power stats in Tuya App though it shows voltage.
I can turn /off switch so I assume the CBI is working. I first thought my HA integration was causing trouble but Tuya App confirms no power draw even thought switch is being turned on and off during schedules. As a precaution I also turned off/ on the circuit breaker for the geyser to be sure it wasn't a network issue and a further hard reset would fix but same issue.
Will get into roof / geyser but assuming the CBI is fine. Will test if there is load voltage on CBI to be sure.
What is best way to test if element is shot using multimeter? (get an open circuit or something) Miss my dad who would have told me.
If it is shot, provides an opportunity to put a 2kW element (was originally a 4kW- and currently a 3kW) element , so i can more effectively use the solar plant I have.
Also, can I as plumbing noob do this myself? Can't afford a plumber this month
One of my geysers is connected to a CBI smart switch. It's also fed by heat pump so hence it took a while to work out what I am about to describe :-
About 3 days ago, geyser element had just turned on , when we had load shedding and house lost total power (battery was flat on inverter). Geyser on non-essential side FWIW
I didn't realise it at the time, but it looks like element 'failed' during that time. I am not getting current/draw power stats in Tuya App though it shows voltage.
I can turn /off switch so I assume the CBI is working. I first thought my HA integration was causing trouble but Tuya App confirms no power draw even thought switch is being turned on and off during schedules. As a precaution I also turned off/ on the circuit breaker for the geyser to be sure it wasn't a network issue and a further hard reset would fix but same issue.
Will get into roof / geyser but assuming the CBI is fine. Will test if there is load voltage on CBI to be sure.
What is best way to test if element is shot using multimeter? (get an open circuit or something) Miss my dad who would have told me.
If it is shot, provides an opportunity to put a 2kW element (was originally a 4kW- and currently a 3kW) element , so i can more effectively use the solar plant I have.
Also, can I as plumbing noob do this myself? Can't afford a plumber this month
Last edited:
Steamy Tom
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You should check if the smart switch is actually putting out power first with a multi-meter.
it is something you can do yourself, you need to drain the geyser and then take out the element, replace it and the gasket.
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