The Home Improvements Thread (2)

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Hi guys, looking at installing insulation in our roof - double storey house and the upstairs gets substantially warmer than downstairs. I've narrowed it down to Aerolite or Knauf Earthwool. Not keen on Isotherm as we also want the sound dampening properties the other two offer. That being said, has anyone installed the Knauf product or have any thoughts on Knauf vs Aerolite?
 
Concrete question:

If I wanted to build a small (1m high, 1m long, 2 block wide) m140 block wall, what am I looking at in terms of foundation..?

Concrete slab width, length and thickness..? Rebar..?
 
Deefish said:
Hi guys, looking at installing insulation in our roof - double storey house and the upstairs gets substantially warmer than downstairs. I've narrowed it down to Aerolite or Knauf Earthwool. Not keen on Isotherm as we also want the sound dampening properties the other two offer. That being said, has anyone installed the Knauf product or have any thoughts on Knauf vs Aerolite?
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Installed Aerolite, have a metal roof and I didn’t realise it doesn’t do sound since it’s just fine even in heavy rain. We still get a lot of heat in the house but that’s just due to large windows.
 
I've got a 4x4 wall box (internal) and I need to mount a 2x4 plate on it, does anyone know if you get a blank 4x4 to 2x4 conversion plate?

Right now I've just used a blank 4x4 plate, drilled a hole in the middle and used double-sided tape to stick the 2x4 plate on top, I would like something a bit less hacky.

It's for mounting the Unifi in-wall Wifi units if anyone is curious, not high voltage stuff.
 
DrJohnZoidberg said:
I've got a 4x4 wall box (internal) and I need to mount a 2x4 plate on it, does anyone know if you get a blank 4x4 to 2x4 conversion plate?

Right now I've just used a blank 4x4 plate, drilled a hole in the middle and used double-sided tape to stick the 2x4 plate on top, I would like something a bit less hacky.

It's for mounting the Unifi in-wall Wifi units if anyone is curious, not high voltage stuff.
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I think your best bet is getting something 3d printed..
 
Anyone know how if it's possible to safely remove this sprout, and how? The thing is a bit loose and I'm try to see what can be done about it.

1674305788422.png
 
prod said:
Anyone know how if it's possible to safely remove this sprout, and how? The thing is a bit loose and I'm try to see what can be done about it.

View attachment 1461621
Click to expand...

Just turn it anti-clockwise and it will screw out.
If it is a shower spout, and it doesn't leak behind that cover, I would just leave it alone. You most probably don't touch it every day, the pipes behind the tiles may have some play.
Trying to unscrew it may damage the connection between pipe and elbow if it was screwed in very tight.
 
Stokstert said:
Just turn it anti-clockwise and it will screw out.
If it is a shower spout, and it doesn't leak behind that cover, I would just leave it alone. You most probably don't touch it every day, the pipes behind the tiles may have some play.
Trying to unscrew it may damage the connection between pipe and elbow if it was screwed in very tight.
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Thanks, I thought it would just screw out but it feels very tight
 
Hi all

My first dabble into this thread. :)
But by looks of things will be around for a while.. the never-ending journey begins..

I had windows and sliding doors replaced (wood for aluminium), and was wondering if the plaster/rhinolite/paint job done after could actually be smooth and almost unnoticeable? Or will there always be some sort of line where the old rhinolite meets the new?
Want to ask the contractor to redo them, but just need some info before I get the "this is the best you're gonna get it".

He's already agreed ro redo the ceiling in the extension, so I'm feeling like he suspected the guy doing the work wasn't capable of doing it properly. And this the same guy that did the windows/doors plastering/rhinolite.

Also using Dulux Luxury Silk White for walls and Dulux Acrylic PVA White for ceiling. Contractor seems to think they could be used interchangeably, is he smoking his socks? I can see the one is more shiny, is it just me?
Reason I stuck to those is that what's used all round the house. Anyone else use these or have any comments?

Thanks!
 
Tradezzz said:
Hi all

My first dabble into this thread. :)
But by looks of things will be around for a while.. the never-ending journey begins..

I had windows and sliding doors replaced (wood for aluminium), and was wondering if the plaster/rhinolite/paint job done after could actually be smooth and almost unnoticeable? Or will there always be some sort of line where the old rhinolite meets the new?
Want to ask the contractor to redo them, but just need some info before I get the "this is the best you're gonna get it".

He's already agreed ro redo the ceiling in the extension, so I'm feeling like he suspected the guy doing the work wasn't capable of doing it properly. And this the same guy that did the windows/doors plastering/rhinolite.

Also using Dulux Luxury Silk White for walls and Dulux Acrylic PVA White for ceiling. Contractor seems to think they could be used interchangeably, is he smoking his socks? I can see the one is more shiny, is it just me?
Reason I stuck to those is that what's used all round the house. Anyone else use these or have any comments?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
We used those paints on the interior about 15 years ago, still looks new today, washes well and no issues with Dulux. Coverage is also good
 
WAslayer said:
Concrete question:

If I wanted to build a small (1m high, 1m long, 2 block wide) m140 block wall, what am I looking at in terms of foundation..?

Concrete slab width, length and thickness..? Rebar..?
Click to expand...

250mm thick, 500mm wide and use brickforce.
 
Should a shower wall mixer cover be sealed against the tiles? I'm talking about the circular outside part of this thing: 1674371425673.png

Mine is currently just pushed against the tiles but there's no silicon sealing it or anything. Worried that's it's bad that water is running behind there.
 
derp90 said:
Should a shower wall mixer cover be sealed against the tiles? I'm talking about the circular outside part of this thing: View attachment 1461861

Mine is currently just pushed against the tiles but there's no silicon sealing it or anything. Worried that's it's bad that water is running behind there.
Click to expand...

Yes, get some shower silicon and seal it. At my previous house so much water went in behind the mixer that the wall on the other side showed water bubbles
 
Snyper564 said:
Finally getting to garage ceiling. Cleared out ceiling during the holiday the guy that does out building will be popping in "foil insulation" and ceiling board almost against the tiles on the brandering etc. So the garage should be nice and "finished off" in the next week or so.

Side walls to be painted etc too. Wires to be sorted too

View attachment 1458301


all on the back of this thread

Garage - stop the dust

Hey all I have a roof tiles in my garage with no ceiling - so the beams are exposed. I like this but get dust from the tiles. What is the material used to almost seal the tiles exposed at the beam level where it connects with the tiles. I do not want to put a ceiling in and I want access to my...
mybroadband.co.za mybroadband.co.za
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1674380698199.png

Boards in first coat of paint done, should be finished this week then I can get the wiring finished which I should have done first but it is what it is
 
derp90 said:
Should a shower wall mixer cover be sealed against the tiles? I'm talking about the circular outside part of this thing: View attachment 1461861

Mine is currently just pushed against the tiles but there's no silicon sealing it or anything. Worried that's it's bad that water is running behind there.
Click to expand...

Phone Hansgrohe, they sent somebody to my house free of charge to check the shower mixer - mine was a new installation??
 
maumau said:
Phone Hansgrohe, they sent somebody to my house free of charge to check the shower mixer - mine was a new installation??
Click to expand...
It's not a new installation, but maybe I'll email them to ask how it should be installed, as on videos I've seen that part is not exactly siliconed to the wall.
 
Tradezzz said:
Hi all

My first dabble into this thread. :)
But by looks of things will be around for a while.. the never-ending journey begins..

I had windows and sliding doors replaced (wood for aluminium), and was wondering if the plaster/rhinolite/paint job done after could actually be smooth and almost unnoticeable? Or will there always be some sort of line where the old rhinolite meets the new?
Want to ask the contractor to redo them, but just need some info before I get the "this is the best you're gonna get it".

He's already agreed ro redo the ceiling in the extension, so I'm feeling like he suspected the guy doing the work wasn't capable of doing it properly. And this the same guy that did the windows/doors plastering/rhinolite.

Also using Dulux Luxury Silk White for walls and Dulux Acrylic PVA White for ceiling. Contractor seems to think they could be used interchangeably, is he smoking his socks? I can see the one is more shiny, is it just me?
Reason I stuck to those is that what's used all round the house. Anyone else use these or have any comments?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

It depends, even the best plasterer could struggle depending on the finish/type of plaster. I'd say definitely go ahead and speak to them about your disappointment in the finish.

Explain that you know it would be tough to make it perfect but it's currently at 30% or x% of what would be acceptable. Basically they need to sand down and blend the finish in between the old and new. Depending on how many there
 
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