Thanks - happened this weekend - and couldn't recall if that was a good or a bad thing. I usually turn the entie db board off - but because I was just changing the plug, I checked if the cabe was live and then just went ahead.
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The Home Improvements Thread (2)
- Thread starter TedLasso
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W@P
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You are right. It's madness.
I have a Hansgrohe shower select like below. Bought the place with it. No way I would pay that for a shower mixer. That is just the mixer to select where the water must come out and then there is the temp control unit below it. So you sitting at R14k just for the mixer setup. No showerheads yet. And now you must bite the bullet and get decent shower heads. No use in buying a R14k mixer with a R200 builders shower head.
I must say i had good service from Hansgrohe support regarding my mixer. It had an issue and they sent someone out to come and fix it. No issues.
AxField
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It's a good thing. As you've probably realised, it's best to switch off the main DB when working on plugs.
Hate doing that because then my server goes down, and its usually running some long running ETL
But - 100% aware I should be doing that.
AxField
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I have the same issue switching off the EL, lots of servers and networking gear running 24/7. And let’s not forget the rugrats losing their sheet when there’s no WiFi. But yeah, rather a controlled shut down than an unplanned tripHate doing that because then my server goes down, and its usually running some long running ETL
Tinuva
The Magician
I have an additional 600w inverter on a single battery I had before getting solar.
Put this on for the network cabinet. So generally, it never works hard, except when the EL has to go off for whatever reason. Invaluable when the solar installers are here or you need to do maintenance on a plug or whatever.
Yeh, I think I must just suck it up - the servers are on a UPS - but it only gives them enough time to shutdown.
Its not like I need to do this often(although, I have to put in a new plug today for a bar fridge) - the server was up for four months.
Its not like I need to do this often(although, I have to put in a new plug today for a bar fridge) - the server was up for four months.
Tim_vb
Expert Member
not if your house is wired correctly
there are a few odd cases out there though -I know of an install where lives are shared between circuits and you can get a shock between where the lives connect together,
AlmightyBender
Executive Member
My best mate works for Hansgrohe and they legit are the real deal. They are aiming very much at the buy-once-cry-once market and it is highly advised to go for their less fancy stuff. Of course they have super high end stuff like this but they do have some reasonable stuff.
Also that lifetime free support on any of their products is amazing. Nobody else comes close.
So like you can spend R700 on a kak tap every three years or you can spend R2500 for a Hansgrohe tap that will last you 20 years.
Not quite home improvement - but it could be
What would be the best way to treat firewood / braai wood before storing it in the house for things like wood borer.
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We discovered some expensive furniture (two chesterfield chairs) had been destroyed by wood borer recently - it looks like the damage was prior to when we bought because it had been repaired with new wood and epoxy.
Now going through the expensive process of fumigating the chairs and attempting to have them repaired.
What would be the best way to treat firewood / braai wood before storing it in the house for things like wood borer.
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We discovered some expensive furniture (two chesterfield chairs) had been destroyed by wood borer recently - it looks like the damage was prior to when we bought because it had been repaired with new wood and epoxy.
Now going through the expensive process of fumigating the chairs and attempting to have them repaired.
W@P
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Jip I agree. Buy once cry once.
I have an aluminium double-door that opens onto a yard, and twice now there have been geckos chilling in the grooves on the sides/top of the door, so as I open it they fall or scurry into the house. I want to prevent then and other creatures from going into the side of the doors.
I'm thinking of putting those brush seals on the door outside parts, so when it closes nothing can get into the groove. Anyone done something similar?
I'm thinking of putting those brush seals on the door outside parts, so when it closes nothing can get into the groove. Anyone done something similar?
Forza
Well-Known Member
Talking about taps and the likes. What's anyone thoughts on this?
https://www.takealot.com/new-modern...Y6HQXchDVM5lFX_zwDhoC5x8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Looks damn cool, don't think its the exact same as the one in the video.
https://www.takealot.com/new-modern...Y6HQXchDVM5lFX_zwDhoC5x8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Looks damn cool, don't think its the exact same as the one in the video.
Bit of a long one, but I am looking at buying a house in Cape Town that does need some work, so looking for any advise, suggestions and cost estimates for what I've seen so far and has been disclosed. The house was built in the 50's but has been renovated.
1. The parquet flooring appears to be a bit scuffed and possibly not sealed/lacquered. The colour is also quite light and I would prefer darker. Getting it sanded and lacquered/sealed to make it darker and more lively seems to be a more minor alteration. Is a cost of R150- R250 pm a good range? Any gotchas when it comes to this sort of work?
2. The asbestos gutters and fascia boards need replacement. The downpipes appear to be plastic and in good condition so should not need any work. Any ideas on a rough cost for this?
3. The built in cupboards look terrible so I would replace them with floor to ceiling sized cupboards. Any price ranges for this (I would probably be happy with a sturdy chipboard over a real wood cupboards).
4. Some the windows are ancient (think those old white metal (steel) ones) and I would like to replace them with possibly aluminum windows. Anyone had this done and what was the cost per window? Was there significant work required (I'm interested in how long it takes to bash out a window and install a new one, plaster it up etc.).
5. There is a sort of utility area that is cemented over, probably done when the house was built. I was thinking of using a grippy paint to paint over it and give it more polished look, not sure of the correct term for this?
1. The parquet flooring appears to be a bit scuffed and possibly not sealed/lacquered. The colour is also quite light and I would prefer darker. Getting it sanded and lacquered/sealed to make it darker and more lively seems to be a more minor alteration. Is a cost of R150- R250 pm a good range? Any gotchas when it comes to this sort of work?
2. The asbestos gutters and fascia boards need replacement. The downpipes appear to be plastic and in good condition so should not need any work. Any ideas on a rough cost for this?
3. The built in cupboards look terrible so I would replace them with floor to ceiling sized cupboards. Any price ranges for this (I would probably be happy with a sturdy chipboard over a real wood cupboards).
4. Some the windows are ancient (think those old white metal (steel) ones) and I would like to replace them with possibly aluminum windows. Anyone had this done and what was the cost per window? Was there significant work required (I'm interested in how long it takes to bash out a window and install a new one, plaster it up etc.).
5. There is a sort of utility area that is cemented over, probably done when the house was built. I was thinking of using a grippy paint to paint over it and give it more polished look, not sure of the correct term for this?
WAslayer
Honorary Master
2. Make sure you get someone registered with the city to do asbestos work.. there are meticulous safety records and files and procedures that must be followed.. a contractor who had done work for me a few months ago, also mentioned a cost of R110 per kg to throw away the asbestos..
3. How long is a piece of string..? There are a few variables at play here that influence cost.. there are a myriad of different colours and textures when it comes to chipboard and that determines the main cost.. a white sheet can be around 600 - 800 bucks and you would need about two to three sheets for a typical built in.. some cupboards I did recently myself, used Nordic ice, 2.7m tall, 2m wide and came in about 5k including hinges and handles.. if you are not doing it yourself, factor in cost of someone doing it for you too..
Thanks, it's just useful to get a ballpark amount. R25k vs R100k sort of thing
PhireSide
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I'm no plumber by trade but I tried my hand at replacing a 'vanity' in the main bathroom that was ugly to say the least. The people here cheaped out and ended up using an offcut from the kitchen counters and just slapped it onto a cupboard carcass and called it a day. The plumbing was quite bad, as the waste pipe was pinched and not flowing properly, the plaster behind the cupboard was bare and unprimed, they were apparently allergic to silicone as they didn't use any to seal the basin to the counter...I could go on but I think this paints the picture.
Progress pics:
Mock up of the new vanity:
Yuck:
Finished product. I still need to chase the wall to install and connect the light that came with the mirror, and the hideous tiles will be ripped out and replaced next week when the tiler comes. We are also going to be tiling to the ceiling but for now we will just paint over the bile yellow (I already cut in around the vanity and mirror so I don't need to remove them at a later stage). Also in the pipeline are some new blinds and a nicer-looking curtain rail with proper curtains. The astute among you might notice that the tap is a bit too big for the basin, but that's because we haven't decided on the fittings yet, so I just threw on an old new swivel kitchen mixer that I had laying here for the time being as the one from the old basin was really naff.
Progress pics:
Mock up of the new vanity:
Yuck:
Finished product. I still need to chase the wall to install and connect the light that came with the mirror, and the hideous tiles will be ripped out and replaced next week when the tiler comes. We are also going to be tiling to the ceiling but for now we will just paint over the bile yellow (I already cut in around the vanity and mirror so I don't need to remove them at a later stage). Also in the pipeline are some new blinds and a nicer-looking curtain rail with proper curtains. The astute among you might notice that the tap is a bit too big for the basin, but that's because we haven't decided on the fittings yet, so I just threw on an old new swivel kitchen mixer that I had laying here for the time being as the one from the old basin was really naff.
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