The Home Improvements Thread (3)

I have finally started fixing aesthetical items around the house after 2 years of medium renovations and bigger fixes in the new house.

I have 4 "brick-lights" around the pool on the retaining wall, similar to this, except they are now completely smashed. I basically broke them out and all that remains are the steel inner shell, the covers were anyways broken and the shell is rusting.

1746612309171.png

I tested the wiring, there is continuity (thank goodness). Originally they were fed by a 300VA transformer, but that is also now gone.

I decided to not try and retrofit into the existing cavities, but rather get a slim surface mount fixture that will cover the hole and will be easier to maintain.

Question, do I stay with 12V (300VA transformer is around R1100), or do I just feed 220V (it will make my life a lot easier, no 12V bulbs required, no transformer etc.). It's roughly 20m-25m of cabling.

There is no risk of electrocution like with the in-pool LED light.

Thoughts?
 
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I have finally started fixing aesthetical items around the house after 2 years of medium renovations and bigger fixes in the new house.

I have 4 "brick-lights" around the pool on the retaining wall, similar to this, except they are now completely smashed. I basically broke them out and all that remains are the steel inner shell, the covers were anyways broken and the shell is rusting.

View attachment 1818611

I tested the wiring, there is continuity (thank goodness). Originally they were fed by a 300VA transformer, but that is also now gone.

I decided to not try and retrofit into the existing cavities, but rather get a slim surface mount fixture that will cover the hole and will be easier to maintain.

Question, do I stay with 12V (300VA transformer is around R1100), or do I just feed 220V (it will make my life a lot easier, no 12V bulbs required, no transformer etc.).

There is no risk of electrocution like with the in-pool LED light.

Thoughts?
Personally, I prefer 12v for any garden lighting, have always used 12v and never had mains. Just my preference though.
 
Thanks. but why though?
I'd say stick with 220v.. 12v dc doesn't do too well over longer distances, though I don't know what distances are involved with your setup.. besides that, replacing the transformer if it should fail at 1100bucks every time seems like an unnecessary waste of money..
 
I'd say stick with 220v.. 12v dc doesn't do too well over longer distances, though I don't know what distances are involved with your setup.. besides that, replacing the transformer if it should fail at 1100bucks every time seems like an unnecessary waste of money..
That's my thinking. I should have mentioned that. I don't know how the wires are routed but assuming it's point to point, it is roughly 20m-25m of cabling, so the losses are noticeable when I used a 18VA transformer just to test, the voltage was below 5V.

220V would make this problem go away.
 
That's my thinking. I should have mentioned that. I don't know how the wires are routed but assuming it's point to point, it is roughly 20m-25m of cabling, so the losses are noticeable when I used a 18VA transformer just to test, the voltage was below 5V.

220V would make this problem go away.
If you use LED lights, you can feed 12v from a power brick from an old external hard disk. Most houses have these lying in a drawer somewhere...
 
If you use LED lights, you can feed 12v from a power brick from an old external hard disk. Most houses have these lying in a drawer somewhere...
Yeah, depends on the rating, 4 lights over that distance might be a stretch for it.
 
Thanks. but why though?
Always had short runs for our garden lights, so never bothered with mains. I see the other comments after mine and agree that if a longer run and not LED, rather use mains.

Are you planning to extend the lighting run/s at any point, would also maybe be a factor?
 
Always had short runs for our garden lights, so never bothered with mains. I see the other comments after mine and agree that if a longer run and not LED, rather use mains.

Are you planning to extend the lighting run/s at any point, would also maybe be a factor?
Not gonna extend, the cables are chased through the wall, so no option.
 
Using mains for lighting generally makes more sense due to the reduced risk of electrocution. While low-voltage systems are often considered safer, a failing transformer introduces a potential hazard. Eliminating the transformer and opting for standard 220V, installed with appropriate safety measures for wet environments, simplifies the system and removes a point of failure that could be dangerous.
 
Using mains for lighting generally makes more sense due to the reduced risk of electrocution. While low-voltage systems are often considered safer, a failing transformer introduces a potential hazard. Eliminating the transformer and opting for standard 220V, installed with appropriate safety measures for wet environments, simplifies the system and removes a point of failure that could be dangerous.
Thanks ChatGPT...
 
Thanks ChatGPT...
So 12V DC was always safer where human "contact" was a possibility e.g. submersed pool-lights, over-head 12V lights (the ones that run on the rails) etc. But there is no inherent benefit to 12V, in fact, the losses incurred by DC over distance makes it a bit of a con when long runs are required. This is in context to lighting,

I'm excluding 12-24V DC systems where a backup power system is involved e.g. Bore-Hole pumps running off solar etc.
 
So 12V DC was always safer where human "contact" was a possibility e.g. submersed pool-lights, over-head 12V lights (the ones that run on the rails) etc. But there is no inherent benefit to 12V, in fact, the losses incurred by DC over distance makes it a bit of a con when long runs are required. This is in context to lighting,

I'm excluding 12-24V DC systems where a backup power system is involved e.g. Bore-Hole pumps running off solar etc.
My boundary fence and drive way gate is being replaced.. along with that my gate motor.. I will be getting rid of the 12v transformer that powers the motor in favour of running 220v to the new gate motor..
 
Sorry for the wall of text.

I finally started the holiday home mini kitchen renovation. I gathered enough will in my mind to finally start.

The kitchen is a bit of a clusterfsck atm. But it was built by, what I assume, must be a total idiot. The house has an old farm house vibe to it so the fit and finish are lacking in some places. We bought it in 2010 and I guess the house was about 5 years old by then.

Anyway, we added some stuff over the years like a pool, outdoor shower, an extra boma under the trees so you can choose which boma you want to use. One on either side of the house.

Like I have mentioned before, when I was still planning this whole saga, I have a 900mm freestanding SMEG gas stove/oven that my mother always wanted to have installed in this house. Now she is no longer with us, and I decided I might as well do her a solid. And in the process, learn how to weld half decent, how to pour a concrete countertop, and how to spray paint steel with a compressor and paint gun. Something to keep my mind busy from all the kaak I have going on.

The kitchen layout is ok, but the counters, or lack thereof, are a problem. So I am removing the old wooden cabinet that houses the microwave and oven. Where the mic/oven is atm the mirror fridge will move to that spot. Then, a small concrete/steel corner countertop will be installed in that corner by the door, limiting the door usage to only the top part. Never use the door anyway. Wasted space.

1748185078693.png

Then the old stove will be removed, and the concrete countertop will be cut/demolished to make way for the new stove/oven. New splashback tiles will come on the walls inside the stove/oven space, and pos extractor fan will be removed. That spot is 1200mm wide, I am planning on leaving part of the current concrete counter intact on either side and fit the SMEG in the middle. That leaves a little counter space on either side of the stove of about 120mm, which is not much. So either I do that and the stove is centered, or I move it all the way to either side and leave a small counter space of about 250mm. But that would irritate the hell out of me with it not being centered.

1748185013550.png

Next the old wooden counter/cabinet will be removed as well as the current fridge. I am going to put 2 counters in that space. One running in front of the window and the other along that protruding wall. By the window, I will install a small prep bowl with a mixer.

1748185146434.png

In total, there will be 4 counters built with concrete countertops and steel frames. No cabinets. Will put wood slatted shelves in the frames.

I started off with the steel frames. Bought a couple of lengths of 50x50x3 square tubing. Used a cut list tool on the web to give me a cut list that minimizes the off-cuts. Still managed to get it wrong. Anywway, welded the frames, moer toss welding skills I have. But some of the welds came out pretty decent IMO. No pics of welding or frames yet.

1748185275613.png

Me and my bra, who takes care of the place are doing all the work.

Till next time.
 
before you paint that steel just wipe it down nice and clean with thinners, the cleaner it is the better. Then paint or spray an etching primer on them, then use whatever paint you want on top :thumbsup:

concrete counter tops are tricky as they can crack easily as they dry, the mixture has to be perfect and dried slowly and correctly. It's also a very messy and back breaking job, you'll be surprised how much you need... oh and remember to add in steel meshing into the mix for strength (like a foundation)

should be fun, the best is just to smash out everything, look at it as a clean slate and do it all in one go, this forces you to finish the job and work hard
 
Ground has officially been broken today on the new building.
<snip>

So this past Friday was the builders last day. Building is now complete and quite happy with how it turned out. Furnishing, cupboards and all those things are coming much later as we turn our attention to the garden now.


In addition, also got a bamboo wall put up, not only to give more privacy but the neighbor has a flatlet on the boundary with a wall that isn't plastered so was a bit of an eyesore.


We are now working on taking out the paving and putting in pathways to open the back garden up a bit more. Started with a little section to see what it looks like and we kinda like it. Was originally planning on a more contrasting color stones but since our borehole is quite iron heavy it would stain anyways.


Rewarding work doing it yourself (the paving), but also kak at the same time.
 
@W@P why don't remove those walls around the stove? Then you can continue with a countertop to the right.

EDIT: .................. and perhaps the left too :)
 
Hi guys,

Apparently the pool filter (round thingy with sand is leaking). How much do you guys think this should cost to replace and is it something DIY-able as I got a ridiculous quote which makes me think getting rid of the pool would be a better option
 
So this past Friday was the builders last day. Building is now complete and quite happy with how it turned out. Furnishing, cupboards and all those things are coming much later as we turn our attention to the garden now.


In addition, also got a bamboo wall put up, not only to give more privacy but the neighbor has a flatlet on the boundary with a wall that isn't plastered so was a bit of an eyesore.


We are now working on taking out the paving and putting in pathways to open the back garden up a bit more. Started with a little section to see what it looks like and we kinda like it. Was originally planning on a more contrasting color stones but since our borehole is quite iron heavy it would stain anyways.


Rewarding work doing it yourself (the paving), but also kak at the same time.

Love that bamboo, it lasts forever.
 
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