The Home Improvements Thread (3)

MarmiteMonster said:
Here is a Quote to the previous post about this wall. For anyone that might be interested in it.
Click to expand...
Rea
lly keen to make sure I don't struggle with waterproofing.

Guys are nearly done with plaster.

A quick recap

Sika Cemflex slurry applied to bottom of wall down to below ground level and 1m above. Cemflex & water mixed with the plastersand/cement mix.

Now looking at the next part, I seem to recall someone saying apply Drikon directly to the wall after plaster but I can't find it. Also bought membrane for the top of the wall which again will be mixed with plaster . Just trying to check whether we would do tall the water proofing before primer or after primer ?

Was even recommended for some of the wall bottoms with water damage.


Finally anyone have a recommendation on where I can get large cypress trees (Christmas tree lookingtall trees)
 
Not sure if this has been covered but can't seem to find a post on it and getting conflicting information from different electricians.

Changing out my oven and old one was plugged in to this cable wire to wire with tape (I know).

New one is a 3 pin wall plug...electrician is telling me to cut it and warranty is telling me no.

So do I need a 3 pin block at the end of this orange sleeved cable or replace circle outlet with new 4x4 wall socket placed right behind the oven or should wall socket be in adjacent cupboard ?

Note: there is an isolator switch above counter that runs to the orange sleeve outlet
 

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DrX said:
Not sure if this has been covered but can't seem to find a post on it and getting conflicting information from different electricians.

Changing out my oven and old one was plugged in to this cable wire to wire with tape (I know).

New one is a 3 pin wall plug...electrician is telling me to cut it and warranty is telling me no.

So do I need a 3 pin block at the end of this orange sleeved cable or replace circle outlet with new 4x4 wall socket placed right behind the oven or should wall socket be in adjacent cupboard ?

Note: there is an isolator switch above counter that runs to the orange sleeve outlet
Click to expand...

I would add a socket on the orange wire and keep the plug.
 
DrX said:
Not sure if this has been covered but can't seem to find a post on it and getting conflicting information from different electricians.

Changing out my oven and old one was plugged in to this cable wire to wire with tape (I know).

New one is a 3 pin wall plug...electrician is telling me to cut it and warranty is telling me no.

So do I need a 3 pin block at the end of this orange sleeved cable or replace circle outlet with new 4x4 wall socket placed right behind the oven or should wall socket be in adjacent cupboard ?

Note: there is an isolator switch above counter that runs to the orange sleeve outlet
Click to expand...
Do the 4x4 box using the orange wires to plug the oven in there..
 
DrX said:
Not sure if this has been covered but can't seem to find a post on it and getting conflicting information from different electricians.

Changing out my oven and old one was plugged in to this cable wire to wire with tape (I know).

New one is a 3 pin wall plug...electrician is telling me to cut it and warranty is telling me no.

So do I need a 3 pin block at the end of this orange sleeved cable or replace circle outlet with new 4x4 wall socket placed right behind the oven or should wall socket be in adjacent cupboard ?

Note: there is an isolator switch above counter that runs to the orange sleeve outlet
Click to expand...

Definitely install an unswitched 4x4 plug socket i.e. it doesn't have an on-off 'switch' since you already have an isolator and wire the orange lead into it. So much more professional and safe.

Helped a relative recently. Their moulded plug connected to the dryer somehow burnt out on live point IIRC. It is under warranty. They called the company (BOSCH) who said they would charge R600 or something to come change the plug so they told them to do it themsevles. So I did and all is good. Of course, it could then have been another problem.

However, I would definitely not cut a plug for an expensive appliance as that could void warranty for no reason.
 
Anyone know about sewer rods?
6mm at +-R2400 vs 8 mm R2800 vs poly R2000, is it worth going for the 8mm?
 
kolaval said:
Anyone know about sewer rods?
6mm at +-R2400 vs 8 mm R2800 vs poly R2000, is it worth going for the 8mm?
Click to expand...

how many meters is that? I would be really reluctant to try pushing far down unless its just a straight run.

personally i would rather buy attachments for my pressure washer
 
Steamy Tom said:
how many meters is that? I would be really reluctant to try pushing far down unless its just a straight run.

personally i would rather buy attachments for my pressure washer
Click to expand...
The whole sewage pipe is at least 20m, but we have opened the ground close to where we suspect the blockage is.
A set seems to be 20m as well.
 
kolaval said:
The whole sewage pipe is at least 20m, but we have opened the ground close to where we suspect the blockage is.
A set seems to be 20m as well.
Click to expand...

Do you have constant blockages? imo if its a once off I would hire a set or hire a guy, otherwise if you have already potentially opened the ground I would just do that if you can.
 
Some advice or ideas please.

The holiday home roof is in a bit of bad shape. Found plenty of loose tekscrews and replaced all that were needed. Some screw heads we put a square piece of lyca tape over to help with waterproofing.

Now I have spots that need attention before the rain starts again.

What do I do here? Just lap and plak again on some problem areas, as well as some extra spots?
Some or other Flash Harry product, maybe, or lap and plak with some rubber product?
I donno.

There seems to be a ton oxcidation or whatever on the whole roof surface. Everywhere you touch or step it leaves a mark.
Maybe a propper wash down with an agent and pressure cleaner?

If you look at the detail you can cleary see the work was done soos die hond se gat.
Piss poor workmanship.

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W@P said:
Some advice or ideas please.

The holiday home roof is in a bit of bad shape. Found plenty of loose tekscrews and replaced all that were needed. Some screw heads we put a square piece of lyca tape over to help with waterproofing.

Now I have spots that need attention before the rain starts again.

What do I do here? Just lap and plak again on some problem areas, as well as some extra spots?
Some or other Flash Harry product, maybe, or lap and plak with some rubber product?
I donno.

There seems to be a ton oxcidation or whatever on the whole roof surface. Everywhere you touch or step it leaves a mark.
Maybe a propper wash down with an agent and pressure cleaner?

If you look at the detail you can cleary see the work was done soos die hond se gat.
Piss poor workmanship.

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Click to expand...
If it does leak or there is evidence it has before, then worth getting up and doing it right.

Otherwise I've seen roofs that looked worse but we're sound. For peace of mind I would Lap and plak either way...

If there is a Chamberlains close by id go with their in house product (made by Flash Harry).
 
xrapidx said:
Yeh, used Permobond - and then our normal what-ever-they-sold us house paint. Still looks light we just painted it, the house on the other hand looks crap.
Click to expand...

Hi, Need to repaint my precast walls. Some painted a few years ago, but the paint has peeled off.

So is this a good method to paint them

1. Permobond (https://www.alcolin.com/diy-products/bonding/permobond/) as the base layed after walls are cleaned, etc
2. Would roof paint be a good thing to paint on thereafter. We painted our front plastered wall with roof paint and it looks good even all these years later. Concrete at the bottom failing or breaking but thats rising damp and I think a careless gardener.

Cheers
 
TedLasso said:
Hi, Need to repaint my precast walls. Some painted a few years ago, but the paint has peeled off.

So is this a good method to paint them

1. Permobond (https://www.alcolin.com/diy-products/bonding/permobond/) as the base layed after walls are cleaned, etc
2. Would roof paint be a good thing to paint on thereafter. We painted our front plastered wall with roof paint and it looks good even all these years later. Concrete at the bottom failing or breaking but thats rising damp and I think a careless gardener.

Cheers
Click to expand...
It worked for me what I still look like the day I did it. What painters did has been redone twice.

I can't remember the exact steps, but I seem to recall
1. Clean
2. Permabond
3. Permabond mixed with paint
4. Paint

Just remember paint does expire. I've reused old paint without issue though.
 
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