The Home Improvements Thread (3)

Neuk_ said:
Bloody hell! Our last house was built in 1949 so same roof structure as yours but the space between roof trusses was around 800mm and we didn't have any issues like you are having...

86af87a83ce3692d8016ab764fe093d8.jpg
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Okay

So you don't have dust in the roof cavity?

The only option I can think of is to remove the tiles, replace the existing battens with bigger battens to accommodate the span, put a roof plastic and put the roof tiles back.

Has anyone been through something like this?
 
Snyper564 said:
Its sufficient, I know the plumber checked yesterday and they need to be signed off by the building inspector as well before being closed up. Pipes are 110m
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Are those pipes underneath the surface bed inside your house?
 
smiley-zn said:
Okay

So you don't have dust in the roof cavity?

The only option I can think of is to remove the tiles, replace the existing battens with bigger battens to accommodate the span, put a roof plastic and put the roof tiles back.

Has anyone been through something like this?
Click to expand...

You do it section by section, lift tiles, replace plastic, lay tiles. I would check with an engineer because your space between trusses is too wide and I don't see any cross support.
 
Mosgi said:
So because the work was thing done by my now almost idle gardener - worked out cheaper to let him work through the vibra. Went around searching for labour workers for a plaster job and apparently R350 is the going rate in my area, would rather pay him 10x over than pay a day labourer more than the going rate.

Slight stale mate he needs to do ceilings and I've got 220, 40 &60 sandpaper and he has asked for 120... I'm saying use what we have so we are beefing...
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Not sure why you're sanding when you should be skimming. You are going to be wasting a lot of sandpaper trying to go from 60 to 220. Go to an abrasive store instead of Builders etc.
 
Mosgi said:
So because the work was thing done by my now almost idle gardener - worked out cheaper to let him work through the vibra. Went around searching for labour workers for a plaster job and apparently R350 is the going rate in my area, would rather pay him 10x over than pay a day labourer more than the going rate.

Slight stale mate he needs to do ceilings and I've got 220, 40 &60 sandpaper and he has asked for 120... I'm saying use what we have so we are beefing...
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Life is too short to argue about sandpaper. :ROFL:
Get him his stuff so he can finish the job and be gone.
 
Mosgi said:
So because the work was thing done by my now almost idle gardener - worked out cheaper to let him work through the vibra. Went around searching for labour workers for a plaster job and apparently R350 is the going rate in my area, would rather pay him 10x over than pay a day labourer more than the going rate.

Slight stale mate he needs to do ceilings and I've got 220, 40 &60 sandpaper and he has asked for 120... I'm saying use what we have so we are beefing...
Click to expand...

Go buy 100 grit just to fsck with him
 
rodga said:
Are those pipes underneath the surface bed inside your house?
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Yup. This is the extension room we are completing. It's just a scullery but the foundation floors etc were already there so we needed to chase through it to lay the correct drain. Previous owners did not do the drainage at this point correctly.
 
Snyper564 said:
Yup. This is the extension room we are completing. It's just a scullery but the foundation floors etc were already there so we needed to chase through it to lay the correct drain. Previous owners did not do the drainage at this point correctly.
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Just double check the sans regulations or speak to your architect.
No change of direction or gradient is allowed under the floor. The pipes also require a form of protection, usually encased in concrete.
 
rodga said:
Just double check the sans regulations or speak to your architect.
No change of direction or gradient is allowed under the floor. The pipes also require a form of protection, usually encased in concrete.
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Yeah, was all signed off by architect and engineer and approved on the building plans. Will also be encased
 
smiley-zn said:
Okay

So you don't have dust in the roof cavity?

The only option I can think of is to remove the tiles, replace the existing battens with bigger battens to accommodate the span, put a roof plastic and put the roof tiles back.

Has anyone been through something like this?
Click to expand...

Lots of dust, in our old house which didn't have plastic underneath the tiles and in our current house which has insulation just under the metal roof sheets.
 
Quick question:
Does the brand of tile cement/adhesive really matter or are they all more or less the same?

I have to re-tile outdoor covered patio area due to tile tenting and was just wondering if a R120 bag really differs from a R40 bag?
 
SHL said:
Quick question:
Does the brand of tile cement/adhesive really matter or are they all more or less the same?

I have to re-tile outdoor covered patio area due to tile tenting and was just wondering if a R120 bag really differs from a R40 bag?
Click to expand...
Well, my contractor asked me to not get tile adhesive from CTM, as he has had numerous issues with their rockgrip stuff they sell..

He prefers using the prestige brand from brights, which is also cheaper..

So if there is a difference, it's not necessarily price wise, likely more brand wise..
 
SHL said:
Quick question:
Does the brand of tile cement/adhesive really matter or are they all more or less the same?

I have to re-tile outdoor covered patio area due to tile tenting and was just wondering if a R120 bag really differs from a R40 bag?
Click to expand...

imo the type matters most depending on the type of tile you are trying to put down, but brands/quality also matter, last thing you want is tiles lifting in a year or two
 
WAslayer said:
Well, my contractor asked me to not get tile adhesive from CTM, as he has had numerous issues with their rockgrip stuff they sell..

He prefers using the prestige brand from brights, which is also cheaper..

So if there is a difference, it's not necessarily price wise, likely more brand wise..
Click to expand...

Steamy Tom said:
imo the type matters most depending on the type of tile you are trying to put down, but brands/quality also matter, last thing you want is tiles lifting in a year or two
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Cool so from these brands, which would u guys recommend? (If I'm not mistaken, the current adhesive used was from CTM so I'll avoid Pro Grip)

Pro Grip
Weber Tylon
KBC
TAL
Ezee Tile
Mapei
Tile Magic
 
SHL said:
Cool so from these brands, which would u guys recommend? (If I'm not mistaken, the current adhesive used was from CTM so I'll avoid Pro Grip)

Pro Grip
Weber Tylon
KBC
TAL
Ezee Tile
Mapei
Tile Magic
Click to expand...

I have had good results with
Pro Grip
Ezee Tile
Mapei
Tile Magic

probably used pro grip the most and never had issues with it my side
 
dont think a survey here is gonna help might have been a bad batch might not have been applied correctly... waaaaay to much risk for CTM to stock something like that thats kek
 
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