The Home Improvements Thread (3)

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I want to move this geyser up so that i can get access to the roof underneath and seal the gutter.

If I put a 90° bend on the pipe that comes out the top of the geyser would that pressure release valve still work.

I assume it would still.

Most geyser i have seen has the pipe pointing upwards like that.

Edit: Vacuum breaker not pressure release.
 
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xrapidx said:
Can anyone tell me if Duram NS4 requires a top coat?
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Given the various colour range of the NS4 now, possibly not.
I've always used it as a rust converter/block and primer, with a top coat after. At the time, only grey was available and I top-coated with black exterior gloss.
 
xrapidx said:
Can anyone tell me if Duram NS4 requires a top coat?
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Yes and no, depending on how long you want it to last. But I would not Duram NS4 because it is water based. I would rather go for a solvent based Screenshot_20250329-151416_Google.jpg
I have been using this one lately and got a noticeable difference. The solvent based one last longer.
 
MarmiteMonster said:
View attachment 1807797
I want to move this geyser up so that i can get access to the roof underneath and seal the gutter.

If I put a 90° bend on the pipe that comes out the top of the geyser would that pressure release valve still work.

I assume it would still.

Most geyser i have seen has the pipe pointing upwards like that.

Edit: Vacuum breaker not pressure release.
Click to expand...

Looks like your bracket is breaking your geyser, you need a L-shape bracket for a horizontal install.
 
spiff said:
thanks
never heard of woodoc 50 - not much of a wood lover, but as long as it last the next 10yrs then I'm happy to try it out.
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Yeah no

You treat a wooden outside door every year. Unless you want to replace it after 5 years every time
 
MarmiteMonster said:
Yes and no, depending on how long you want it to last. But I would not Duram NS4 because it is water based. I would rather go for a solvent based View attachment 1807979
I have been using this one lately and got a noticeable difference. The solvent based one last longer.
Click to expand...
Too late. It's already done.

It's the bottom side of ibr sheeting edging overhang.

I did NS1 first, then NS4 two coats.

The NS4 I had was labelled anti-rust coat, when it ran out and I bought more, the new labelling days NS4 anti-rust primer, hence the question about a top coat.
 
xrapidx said:
Too late. It's already done.

It's the bottom side of ibr sheeting edging overhang.

I did NS1 first, then NS4 two coats.

The NS4 I had was labelled anti-rust coat, when it ran out and I bought more, the new labelling days NS4 anti-rust primer, hence the question about a top coat.
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Yeah, top coat it for longer lasting..
 
krieg said:
Looks like your bracket is breaking your geyser, you need a L-shape bracket for a horizontal install.
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Yes noticed that, I did not do the original install. It's been like that for the past 5 years. So it should last another 5. And I currently don't have the money, time or energy to fix it.
 
MarmiteMonster said:
Yes noticed that, I did not do the original install. It's been like that for the past 5 years. So it should last another 5. And I currently don't have the money, time or energy to fix it.
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From my experience geysers seem to fail every five years if you don't replace the sacrificial anode. I've installed the current geyser myself. Also there's a minimum height from the top of the geyser for the two vacuum breakers, the one in the back looks too low.
 
krieg said:
From my experience geysers seem to fail every five years if you don't replace the sacrificial anode.
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Yes, now that you mention the anode while I am there I might as well replace it.
krieg said:
Also there's a minimum height from the top of the geyser for the two vacuum breakers, the one in the back looks too low.
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Yes I read that It should be atleast 300mm above the geyser. But that back one has been like that for 5 years and hasn't given any problems, So if ain't broke don't fix it
And also when this geyser fails I will move it to a different location and mount it vertically.
 
Joh MyBB search is so crap I cannot find this thread.
Anyway is there some special tool to got this pin out?
Nail just keeps slipping off.
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kolaval said:
Joh MyBB search is so crap I cannot find this thread.
Anyway is there some special tool to got this pin out?
Nail just keeps slipping off.
View attachment 1810066
Click to expand...

Just drive it out from the bottom with a centre punch and hammer.

10mm Centre Punch - Kincrome Tools - Kincrome
 
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Anybody have a contact for proper half bricks in Gauteng?
I can organise collection if need be.
Also there seem to different grades of half bricks, with some dissolving very quickly when they get wet.
 
kolaval said:
Anybody have a contact for proper half bricks in Gauteng?
I can organise collection if need be.
Also there seem to different grades of half bricks, with some dissolving very quickly when they get wet.
Click to expand...
My house's foundation is made from those dissolving bricks, not half bricks but still the same type, in some places the bricks are completely gone only the mortar is left. But that's a problem for a later day. The house is built in semi vlei/marsh ground. If I remember i will get a pic later.
 
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