The Home Improvements Thread (3)

Hi guys,

Apparently the pool filter (round thingy with sand is leaking). How much do you guys think this should cost to replace and is it something DIY-able as I got a ridiculous quote which makes me think getting rid of the pool would be a better option

where is it leaking though? it could just be the gasket at the top lid or the o-rings on the inlet or outlet?

it is definitely DIY either way depending on your capability
 
Hi guys,

Apparently the pool filter (round thingy with sand is leaking). How much do you guys think this should cost to replace and is it something DIY-able as I got a ridiculous quote which makes me think getting rid of the pool would be a better option
Very definitely DIYable if you take your time.

I replaced my pump and filter a number of years ago myself, just took my time doing the pipework. Think it cost me about 8k when I did it for a new filter and pump.

But check where the leak is and it might be the oring that needs replacing.
 
@W@P why don't remove those walls around the stove? Then you can continue with a countertop to the right.

EDIT: .................. and perhaps the left too :)
Just too much of an hassle imo. The space does feel a bit enclosed. And limits you a little bit while cooking, but not enough for me to knock down those walls.

Yes, as you will see in the pic, they only built one small concrete counter to the right of the stove, and then stopped. I was standing there over the weekend, and I tried to put myself in this okes shoes who signed off on this kitchen. It just doesn't make sense. As if the kitchen was the last part of the house to be built with and finished off with whatever materials they had left, and that's it, done.:ROFL: :ROFL:
 
before you paint that steel just wipe it down nice and clean with thinners, the cleaner it is the better. Then paint or spray an etching primer on them, then use whatever paint you want on top :thumbsup:

concrete counter tops are tricky as they can crack easily as they dry, the mixture has to be perfect and dried slowly and correctly. It's also a very messy and back breaking job, you'll be surprised how much you need... oh and remember to add in steel meshing into the mix for strength (like a foundation)

should be fun, the best is just to smash out everything, look at it as a clean slate and do it all in one go, this forces you to finish the job and work hard
This is the look sort of that I am going for. Just in countertop form.

1748198424224.png


TBH I have no fscking idea how the spray mixing etc works. I did get something to wipe down the steel before painting.
I would love to just wipe the bare metal down and put on a clear coat, but I am not sure if this would work or what products to use. If that can't be done, then I was thinking a matt black or a matt grey would be fine.

I plan on building the counter molds with melamine, and I got some white caulk and black caulk for sealing and rounding of the edges. I asked ChatGPT how many 40kg concrete premix bags I would require and he said 11 bags iirc. So I got 12.

Countertops will be 40mm thick. The biggest one being 1560 x 540.

Also got one length of reinforcing mesh that will be cut to size. Plan is to pour the mold and then vibrate the kaak out of it. Gonna use an Ingco multitool with an improvised attachment for the vibrating. Then cover with plastic sheeting, spraying some water every so often to keep it from drying and cracking too fast.

Hoping for the best.
 
howzit chaps.
My kid dragged the sliding door over the alarm door sensor and one of these resisters broke.
Any idea what kind it is and where to get it from? Its a paradox alarm.
Tx


1748200568683.png
 
howzit chaps.
My kid dragged the sliding door over the alarm door sensor and one of these resisters broke.
Any idea what kind it is and where to get it from? Its a paradox alarm.
Tx


View attachment 1823018
Resistors are normally all colour coded, so you can check the colour bands on them and see which resistance it is using this webpage.

 
howzit chaps.
My kid dragged the sliding door over the alarm door sensor and one of these resisters broke.
Any idea what kind it is and where to get it from? Its a paradox alarm.
Tx


View attachment 1823018
Not sure about paradox, but my experience with a few other systems is that 4.7k ohms is generally used. They cost probably 10 cents each. Communica should have stock.

AI says "Common EOL resistor values include 1KΩ, 2.2KΩ, 4.7KΩ, 5.6KΩ, and 6.8KΩ, with the specific value often depending on the brand."

You won't damage the system if you put in the wrong value, so maybe buy a few values and experiment?
 
thanks guys. These are tiny things and single colour with no bands. I'll go to Communica and try a few.
 
This is the look sort of that I am going for. Just in countertop form.

View attachment 1823014


TBH I have no fscking idea how the spray mixing etc works. I did get something to wipe down the steel before painting.
I would love to just wipe the bare metal down and put on a clear coat, but I am not sure if this would work or what products to use. If that can't be done, then I was thinking a matt black or a matt grey would be fine.

I plan on building the counter molds with melamine, and I got some white caulk and black caulk for sealing and rounding of the edges. I asked ChatGPT how many 40kg concrete premix bags I would require and he said 11 bags iirc. So I got 12.

Countertops will be 40mm thick. The biggest one being 1560 x 540.

Also got one length of reinforcing mesh that will be cut to size. Plan is to pour the mold and then vibrate the kaak out of it. Gonna use an Ingco multitool with an improvised attachment for the vibrating. Then cover with plastic sheeting, spraying some water every so often to keep it from drying and cracking too fast.

Hoping for the best.

If you are spraying with a machine then it's a little bit trickier, not overly difficult but you just need to know how to dilute the paint to the correct thickness etc. For such a small job I would either paint it by sponge roller or "spray paint" it, obviously the spray paint is more expensive. The above look is easy to do, just let the metal rust a bit, then clean it and wipe it down a tad and then spray a few coats of clear coat on it to seal it. If you want spray paint always use Rust-Oleum, they are by far the best, here is a clear coat in "gloss" you also get satin and matt etc. Just be aware of the counter top after pouring, since its concrete there can and most likely will be a lot of stones showing through the top layer, this they normally grind down to make it smooth... you don't always get a completely smooth concrete colour top. I'll see if I can find a photo of what I mean.

jpg
 
ok obviously excessive but same principal, these are stones showing through which have been ground down and polished. If you just want a smooth uniform finish then don't use stones and just use a coarse river sand mix. This will give a constant colour and smoothness throughout the whole top.

Concrete Kitchen Countertops – Stone Countertops For Kitchen
 
  • Like
Reactions: W@P
Are drain augers worth it? The ones that house the metal rod which can be rotated with a handle or by using a drill.

I tried a 5m long non housed version with handle at the end but could only get the rod about 40cm in.

It’s a shower and I’m not sure if it’s the shape of the pipe or if it’s the blockage (which feels solid/hard) I’m hitting.
 
Are drain augers worth it? The ones that house the metal rod which can be rotated with a handle or by using a drill.

I tried a 5m long non housed version with handle at the end but could only get the rod about 40cm in.

It’s a shower and I’m not sure if it’s the shape of the pipe or if it’s the blockage (which feels solid/hard) I’m hitting.
If the shower drain was properly installed, it would be a p trap, which is likely what you are feeling as solid..

I'd say start with a drain acid first to clear the blockage, going to be the easiest thing..
 
If the shower drain was properly installed, it would be a p trap, which is likely what you are feeling as solid..

I'd say start with a drain acid first to clear the blockage, going to be the easiest thing..
Noooooo

Start with a plunger, if it's draining but slow use some boiling water, then add cold after and plunge, don't plunge the boiling water...
 
Are drain augers worth it? The ones that house the metal rod which can be rotated with a handle or by using a drill.

I tried a 5m long non housed version with handle at the end but could only get the rod about 40cm in.

It’s a shower and I’m not sure if it’s the shape of the pipe or if it’s the blockage (which feels solid/hard) I’m hitting.

Try from outside if you can, i.e up the outlet pipe
 
Trampolines.
Someone please tell me I'm crazy for even considering an in ground trampoline...

Is there anyone who can recommend a manufacturer? I'm based in the Eastern Cape so guessing I'd need to have the thing shipped here and then deal with the install myself
 
Trampolines.
Someone please tell me I'm crazy for even considering an in ground trampoline...

Is there anyone who can recommend a manufacturer? I'm based in the Eastern Cape so guessing I'd need to have the thing shipped here and then deal with the install myself
It will only be used for a few months - max 2 years. Then it will just rot in the sun. A portable one will be so much easier to throw away when the time comes...
 
Top
Sign up to the MyBroadband newsletter
X