water cooling idle temperature high

[adamr]

Ok so my machine spec:
I7 3930k
Asrock x79 mobo
Gtx590
Tx750m corsair psu
8gig ram
Cosmos 2 case
1tb hdd
Sony dvd writer
Intel water cooling kit rts2011lc
Std thermal paste

So turning on the pc and going into the bios I see my cpu idling (after 15min) at 45 deg celcius this afternoon. Every review had it idling at 33deg c odd. I put the paste on right (I wasn't sure and did it again, with same results, pea sized gob in the middle, and cooler ontop)

Is this normal? (Ok one review had ambient temp of 22deg c)

My mobo temp is 34deg c
SB temp is 38deg c

 

[Messugga]

If your motherboard temperature is 34 degrees, your ambient temperature inside that case is probably around there as well, which doesn't make the 45 degree idle temp unrealistic, although a tad on the high side. Are your case fans in the correct spots and is everything running as they should?

 

[adamr]

Front fan sucking in air, top fan at rear sucking out air, fan on radiator and back of pc sucking out air also

 

[NomNom]

Not everything is made exactly the same, some CPU's can overclock higher than others of the exact same model. It would make sense if temperature was also a factor than can not 100% be the same as the next CPU. Also reviews have different room temperature and humidity levels than where you are, so that plays a factor aswell.

 

[cerebus]

Yoshi... that is quite a PC.

 

[guest2013-1]

I'd check your water cooling unit's water levels and/or make use of some non-abrasive coolant instead of water. The water cooling kit I had years ago had my CPU run at around 23-28 degrees. But over time it degraded and was hovering at around what you're experiencing now.

 

[Messugga]

I'd check your water cooling unit's water levels and/or make use of some non-abrasive coolant instead of water. The water cooling kit I had years ago had my CPU run at around 23-28 degrees. But over time it degraded and was hovering at around what you're experiencing now.

What he's using is closed-loop system for CPUs only, similar to what Corsair and Antec produce, only it is Intel branded. In essence, there is no water level to top up and it already contains a good quality coolant.
The pump that cycles the liquid through the loop may be acting up.

 

[Archer]

I'd check your water cooling unit's water levels and/or make use of some non-abrasive coolant instead of water. The water cooling kit I had years ago had my CPU run at around 23-28 degrees. But over time it degraded and was hovering at around what you're experiencing now.

Its a sealed unit...

 

[adamr]

When oc'ed to 4.4ghz it idles at 61 deg c ... That's what the bios is telling me ...

This a pic

 

[froot]

Try checking with HWMonitor what your temps are. It is more accurate than [most of] the motherboard manufacturers' temp readings.

Your WC is made by the same place that does the Corsair w/coolers. Your temps are definitely too high though, if it is 45C. It is still heavily dependent on ambient temp.

At stock clocks on my 2500k I get 28-32C, dependent on my room temps.

 

[Archer]

Oh you were checking temps in the bios? No wonder your temps were higher than you expected - the bios is NOT a good indication of idle temps, because the chip cant employ any of its power saving features in the bios

 

[Messugga]

Oh you were checking temps in the bios? No wonder your temps were higher than you expected - the bios is NOT a good indication of idle temps, because the chip cant employ any of its power saving features in the bios

Aha, good point, and don't the new i7's have particularly good power management tools at their disposal? That probably explains the high temps then.
+1 on HWMonitor.

 

[froot]

When oc'ed to 4.4ghz it idles at 61 deg c ... That's what the bios is telling me ...

This a pic

That's high.
I idle at 60C when I'm sitting at 4.9GHz.
At ~4.4GHz it should be around 40C-ish.

 

[adamr]

Ahhhhhhh ... Ok will get hwmonitor

And also the heatsink fan is pulling air out, ill try and switching it such that it blows air on the radiator. And those tubes are crossing over each each other? When I'm home ill untangle that and see if it makes a difference.

 

[Ryanbighead]

The whole 'fan pushing air into a case' idea is moronic. All case manufacturers seem to do it and play it up.

Have all your fans near the top of the box where the hot air will naturally migrate to and have them pull it out. Leave the bottom area of your case for passive air intake(Holes with no Fans). Move your intake fans to another higher location and have it extract air. This will create a low pressure inside the box pulling air through the passive intakes due to Various Laws you learnt about in Primary School.

Regarding the water cooler:

To cool the liquid you obviously need cool air flowing over the cooling blades. It then makes no sense to have the radiator at the top let alone the inside of the box! I would mount this nearer the bottom of the box, making use of the cooler air coming in or even mount it on the outside of the box. There is no use trying to cool hot liquid with hot air. Unless you are spraying the radiator with water vapor (To make use of phaze changey goodness) and we all know this is not happening.

In Conclusion:

To all people with fans pushing air into your case. Stop being a silly monkey and turn the fans around. Also put them at the top of your case.

To all the liquid cooling people. Find a way to put those radiators on the outside of your case.

PS: This is all really un-necessary if you are not OCing.

PPS: If you are ever growing tomatoes in a box use these principles as well.

 

[Archer]

To all people with fans pushing air into your case. Stop being a silly monkey and turn the fans around. Also put them at the top of your case.

Your physics is lacking. The tiny tiny bit of force that hot air makes, is easily overcome by the power of any fan. Having more air pushed in is preferable, as it makes it easier to keep dust out. Also, to one of your other points - he is using a SEALED UNIT. ie he simply can not place the fan somewhere else, like the bottom of the case (does nobodyu read these days?). He can however, turn the fan around and make it an intake.

To all the liquid cooling people. Find a way to put those radiators on the outside of your case.

Um... why? And relevance, with the OPs SEALED UNIT?

PS: This is all really un-necessary if you are not OCing.

Who said anything about necessary? Does you car go faster than what your require?

PPS: If you are ever growing tomatoes in a box use these principles as well.

/facepalm

 

[Ryanbighead]

I just don't even know what to reply to ^^^

Apparently you saw me type hot air rises and ignored everything else I explained.



What I was getting at is you do not need intake. Just like when you suck at one end of a straw you don't need someone spitting liquids up the other. The negative pressure created inside the straw draws in liquid from the other end. The same applies with the box and air.

And my Water cooling comments were general, not directed at him. I did see he said he had a closed loop. But aren't the tubes a little longer than like 5 inches?

 

[adamr]

I can't move the unit, its sealed, but from googling ... I see there is like a 15 deg c difference from hwmonitor n bios readings

And if those tubes are twisted around each other would it make a difference

 

[Archer]

What I was getting at is you do not need intake. Just like when you suck at one end of a straw you don't need someone spitting liquids up the other. The negative pressure created inside the straw draws in liquid from the other end. The same applies with the box and air.

And what I'm getting at (using this straw analogy) is that a case is more like a straw with holes along its length (not just at the ends), which makes it difficult to control what gets in, where it gets in, and how much of it gets in at certain points. But if you set up a case to have positive pressure, you have very good control over where your cool air comes from, as well as very well defined areas to place dust filters should you want/need them. Set up an intake fan where you need it, and you are guaranteed to have fresh air where you need it.

I can't move the unit, its sealed, but from googling ... I see there is like a 15 deg c difference from hwmonitor n bios readings

And if those tubes are twisted around each other would it make a difference

That sounds about right, 15°C drop from bios to Windows idle
Twisted tubing should not make any difference, I'd say 1°C at most with an underpowered pump. Unless its kinked, which it doesnt look to be in your pics.

 

[Ryanbighead]

And what I'm getting at (using this straw analogy) is that a case is more like a straw with holes along its length (not just at the ends), which makes it difficult to control what gets in, where it gets in, and how much of it gets in at certain points. But if you set up a case to have positive pressure, you have very good control over where your cool air comes from, as well as very well defined areas to place dust filters should you want/need them. Set up an intake fan where you need it, and you are guaranteed to have fresh air where you need it.



That sounds about right, 15°C drop from bios to Windows idle
Twisted tubing should not make any difference, I'd say 1°C at most with an underpowered pump. Unless its kinked, which it doesnt look to be in your pics.

O.K I see where the misunderstanding came from now...

I am talking about a properly sealed unit, this is something I do with my cases. I don't do the whole mesh and led's everywhere thing so it's relatively easy to get a plain box nice and sealed. All it takes is a bit of strategic masking tape and beading work on screw down panels.

What I do is use a nice large bore drill and make the same sized holes on the bottom of the case that fit the normal fan filters. e.g. if I have 4 fan on top I have 4 fan sized holes with filters on the bottom and everything sealed up in-between. I mean it's not like I will every be able to pressurize it for some mad scientist reason but it's sealed enough for the job.




I also agree with you on the twisting thing.

I don't even think it would make a 1degree difference. the tubing itself is not very conductive... I assume its some sort of rubber tubing which doesn't conduct heat very well. If you touch the tubes and they feel hot then maybe just wangle them a small distance apart.