What's your base load?

Base load of your house

  • 0-50 W

    Votes: 1 1.2%
  • 50-100 W

    Votes: 8 9.6%
  • 100-150 W

    Votes: 4 4.8%
  • 150-250 W

    Votes: 19 22.9%
  • 250-500 W

    Votes: 25 30.1%
  • 500 W+

    Votes: 26 31.3%

  • Total voters
    83
There's your problem.
My Bosch is uber quiet and chews min juice. I think it's an inverter type?
Modern fridges it's more the insulation has gotten a lot better.
You don't need a big fridge, just buy food as you need it.
You end up saving quite a bit just being able to buy a bit more wherever the price is good at the time.
I lived with a bachelor fridge basically that had a tiny freezer inside the fridge, could store at most food for the next day probably. Moving to the new apartment with a very large fridge for one person, actually ended up reducing my grocery bill without adding effort.

That said, don't overbuy, it's more that I can plan a week's worth of food.
That's insanely low.
One thing about my place is there are downlights all over the lounge/kitchen/master bedroom/en-suite. Even with LEDs, my lounge kitchen uses 80w for lighting sadly. When I moved in I switched them all out - they were halogen 40w each. Oye.
If all my lights are on, this is an 80m^2 apartment, all 3-5W LED that are set to 60% brightness at night mostly, so we're talking like 40W if everything is on. Cooking is the thing that uses the most power.

Also don't have a geyser, anyone who said <100W with fridge and geyser probably has a gas one, mine is a "durchlauferhitzer" / gas one that turns on if enough water runs through. It's <R2/kWh for it, so cheaper than a geyser, great if the infrastructure is there.
 
Yes, you can save if you buy in bulk, but a big fridge is not without its costs.
Not practical to buy stuff every 2nd day. We have a Hisense fridge, the new models. A 450/460 litre one and it uses next to nothing. My load at this moment is 110W and the fridge is running with a laptop connected. They use little to nothing.

Even the startup current is low because it’s an inverter based fridge so you don’t get those 5 to 6x startup jolts old fridges do. Also super quiet. I need to open it to know if it’s running or not.
 
That's insanely low.
One thing about my place is there are downlights all over the lounge/kitchen/master bedroom/en-suite. Even with LEDs, my lounge kitchen uses 80w for lighting sadly. When I moved in I switched them all out - they were halogen 40w each. Oye.

I had a similar issue when I moved to my house 4 years ago. I changed out 32 of 40 and 60w downlights of the old MR16 type and replaced with 6W. Incredible to think of the power we wasted on old style bulbs until recently.
 
I had a similar issue when I moved to my house 4 years ago. I changed out 32 of 40 and 60w downlights of the old MR16 type and replaced with 6W. Incredible to think of the power we wasted on old style bulbs until recently.
Yeah back in the day lighting used to be a large portion of an electrical bill.
Hence why parents used to say don't leave a light on if you're not in it.
I got myself a little desktop lamp that had one of those tiny bulbs almost like a microwaves and that even used 20w, years later you could get away with a 2w led that did the same brightness.
 
An inverter type should be around 30% more efficient, but yes, that won't account for the majority of the diffs. True on the insulation though, The entire back of my fridge is injection foam, no access to the pipes like before.

OK I can't imagine using 3-5W LEDs, let alone at 60% brightness. Maybe it's just my age and eyes, but 9w min for me.
My outside lights are all motion activated 25W lights. It’s pitch black but if anything gets within 10 to 15m of the light it turns on. I also don’t like these low wattage ones. I want to see when I walk and blast anyone who coms near my house.
 
At my place, 800-1000w.

Have 1 x small square top lid deep freeze and another upright Bosch & Samsung freezer.
Then I have another 2 x fridge/freezers, a Samsung and a Haier. All are A++++++++++++ or whatever except the small one.

At night, I have about 40m of COB LED strips, which use about 8w p/m and a few 8w odd LED lights.
Not sure what else is chowing.
Needless to say, my 10kw batteries are at 40% between 22:00 - 23:00, then I am on eskom.

At the holiday home, it looks like about 150-300w.
 
At my place, 800-1000w.

Have 1 x small square top lid deep freeze and another upright Bosch & Samsung freezer.
Then I have another 2 x fridge/freezers, a Samsung and a Haier. All are A++++++++++++ or whatever except the small one.

At night, I have about 40m of COB LED strips, which use about 8w p/m and a few 8w odd LED lights.
Not sure what else is chowing.
Needless to say, my 10kw batteries are at 40% between 22:00 - 23:00, then I am on eskom.

At the holiday home, it looks like about 150-300w.
Do you have a couple of kudus stashed away? Are you a prepper? Only shop once a year?
 
At my place, 800-1000w.

Have 1 x small square top lid deep freeze and another upright Bosch & Samsung freezer.
Then I have another 2 x fridge/freezers, a Samsung and a Haier. All are A++++++++++++ or whatever except the small one.

At night, I have about 40m of COB LED strips, which use about 8w p/m and a few 8w odd LED lights.
Not sure what else is chowing.
Needless to say, my 10kw batteries are at 40% between 22:00 - 23:00, then I am on eskom.

At the holiday home, it looks like about 150-300w.
Get a few of these and measure them:
1761382720370.png
 
My outside lights are all motion activated 25W lights. It’s pitch black but if anything gets within 10 to 15m of the light it turns on. I also don’t like these low wattage ones. I want to see when I walk and blast anyone who coms near my house.
Mine are on daylight switches. Think the expense of replacing light fittings will take years to offset energy costs and I also prefer to look out the window and see.
 
On point. Yes, I have a kudu in the freezers. And a blouwillebees.

And I live alone. Makes no sense.
Are they iced up? When last were they defrosted? Get those smart plug energy monitors onto the plugs.
 
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