Where do I get a passive power supply.

I don't mean to rattle your cage Effkay but the industry terms for this kind of power supply is "passive" or "fanless". This may not be correct by an engineers definition but neither is "fat free" just let it go.
 
Shayd:
To be technically correct, you have to say "passively cooled power supply" or "power supply with passive cooling" and not just a "passive power supply" :)

Here's a description of "passive" in Engineering/Electronic terms: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passivity_(engineering)

You can really trust the posts of EffKay. He has made numerous technical posts on Sybaritic's forum...
 
Pada said:
Shayd:
To be technically correct, you have to say "passively cooled power supply" or "power supply with passive cooling" and not just a "passive power supply" :)

Here's a description of "passive" in Engineering/Electronic terms: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passivity_(engineering)

You can really trust the posts of EffKay. He has made numerous technical posts on Sybaritic's forum...
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Was just thinking about that, "passively cooled power supply unit" is just sooo long winded so in true geek fashion from now it will be called a PASPU yeah you heard it PASPU.

I get the feeling this thread is about to go off the rails.
 
Shayd, you can always try contacting Graham from Sybaritic and ask him if they can import that Seasonic X400, which Effkay mentioned.

Otherwise, see if you can source the Mean Well ATX-100 PSU from www.rectifier.co.za or somewhere else.
This one won't work if you have installed a graphics card that requires external power OR if your CPU requires the 4-pin power connector.
 
From the spcr review:
9. LONG TERM, FULL POWER, THERMAL TORTURE TEST

This is a test we have never run on any PSU before: Long-term, full load test without an exhaust fan in our PSU hotbox. It was mentioned earlier that even running this box without the exhaust fan is not normal. Commercially manufactured PSU load testers have non-defeatable, multiple high speed fans to keep themselves cool. This is a major reason why we use our custom-cobbled load tester: It lets us turn the fans off entirely when measuring or recording PSU noise. So why run this test on the X-400 Fanless? Well, almost on a dare.

In direct discussions about the X-400 Fanless, Seasonic reps were brimming with confidence that their new baby could not only perform just like a fan-cooled 400-watter, but even deliver full power under extremely low airflow conditions, such as one might find in a fanless (or single fan) silent PC. The parts in the X-400 FL are apparently robust enough that if it was fan cooled, it could easily be rated for 700W. This led to our running the normal tests without an exhaust fan. When our Seasonic rep found out the 30 minute duration of the 400W test load, he wanted us to try running it at full power for 24 hours, as is often done for testing of mission-critical server PSUs — which are never fanless.

The challenge was on. So, the X-400 Fanless was set to full load without any exhaust fan in the test hotbox, and left to run as long as possible. It was decided early on that 24 hours continuous was not going to be practical. For safety reasons, the test would be monitored regularly (about once every half hour) by a physically present person. That's your author. The test was begun at about 8 AM with 22~23°C ambient room temperature, and left to run until 11 PM that night, a total of 15 hours. The ambient temperature in the room climbed to 26~27°C by 1 PM, stayed around there for several hours, and only declined down to 24°C at 11 PM.

The temperature in the hotbox directly beneath the PSU ranged 56~60°C. Spot checks with the aforementioned infrared thermometer showed temperatures inside the X-400 as high as 82~84°C; mostly it hovered close to but under 80°C. The efficiency dropped as the PSU heated up. The 444W AC input seen after half an hour rose gradually about 10~12W higher during the hottest part of the day.

The end result after 15 hours: The X-400 Fanless survived the test. Furthermore, it worked perfectly the next day — and ran another 12 hours at the same load and conditions. At the end of the second day, a 1500W hair dryer was brought into play while the PSU was at full load, blowing the hot air down into the open grill cover of the X-400 to see what would happen with thermal overload. In a minute, the PSU shut down with a little click, the Over Temperature Protection finally kicking in. The IR thermometer showed temperatures of over 90°C around the main heatsinks. The AC cord was unplugged, the power switched off for a few minutes, then it was turned back on — with no change to the load settings: The X-400 powered back up without a hitch and kept running. The hair dryer was used several times to force OTP, just to check on the protection function. It worked without a flaw about half a dozen times. The X-400 sample is now powering a new system being set up for use in the lab.
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...yea, that looks like a winner all right: you don't get a much better endorsement than the nutters in the biz choosing to use it in their own equipment! ;)
 
EffKay said:
snip
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Seriously, keep you caps lock off or expect a certain amount of rudeness in peoples replies. No need to shout in here.

EffKay said:
snip...
And a Laptop power brick is typically Switchmode regulator power supply and neither a passive nor linear nor resistive voltage regulator. There's nothing PASSIVE about it... Stop using Passive.
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Except for the cooling of it... so thats something, which means its not nothing as you seem to think it is. And see, I didnt even have to shout.

Read in context it is very easy to discern that the OP is talking about passive cooling and its simply easier to say passive PSU than passively cooled PSU. Nothing more is going on here.
 
Pada said:
Shayd, you can always try contacting Graham from Sybaritic and ask him if they can import that Seasonic X400, which Effkay mentioned.

Otherwise, see if you can source the Mean Well ATX-100 PSU from www.rectifier.co.za or somewhere else.
This one won't work if you have installed a graphics card that requires external power OR if your CPU requires the 4-pin power connector.
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Very nice find. You'll have to add on a couple more wires though, like HDD power, DVD (if you have it) and CPU (as you already mentioned).

OP, what exact model CPU/mobo you have? Wouldn't hurt to double check your max power requirement :) Especially with the small amount of power over the 12V line
 
Did anyone make any progress on this? The stock cooler on my 2100T is WAY too loud, and I can't find a "passive" cooler to fit inside the CoolerMaster Elite 100, so I'm thinking of getting a CoolerMaster Elite 360 (I want a desktop form factor) and using a Thermalright heatsink without a fan. That just leaves the PSU. So, has anyone found a fanless PSU locally, to complete my no-moving-parts PC.
 
Drunkard #1 said:
Did anyone make any progress on this? The stock cooler on my 2100T is WAY too loud, and I can't find a "passive" cooler to fit inside the CoolerMaster Elite 100, so I'm thinking of getting a CoolerMaster Elite 360 (I want a desktop form factor) and using a Thermalright heatsink without a fan. That just leaves the PSU. So, has anyone found a fanless PSU locally, to complete my no-moving-parts PC.
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Only passives I know of are Seasonic 80plus gold PSUs. Bought one myself a few days ago (Seasonic X-750) and its fan only spins up at 400W (well under the poower draw for most single GPU configs).
 
Archer said:
Only passives I know of are Seasonic 80plus gold PSUs. Bought one myself a few days ago (Seasonic X-750) and its fan only spins up at 400W (well under the poower draw for most single GPU configs).
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NOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!! They're only available for Sybaritic *spits*. I can't bring myself to buy from them. I just can't. Any other options (low wattage preferred).

flarkit said:
Alternatively, try a PicoPSU: http://www.mini-box.co.za/ProductDescription.aspx?id=846714
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I see. No, I lied, I don't see. How do these work? Do I get a backplate to plug the brick into, which has slots for SATA power and Board power? Must I get the backplate made? :confused:
 
Drunkard #1 said:
NOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!! They're only available for Sybaritic *spits*. I can't bring myself to buy from them. I just can't. Any other options (low wattage preferred).

I see. No, I lied, I don't see. How do these work? Do I get a backplate to plug the brick into, which has slots for SATA power and Board power? Must I get the backplate made? :confused:
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Lol, well then you can try get take2 to import you the 400W fanless version nice and "cheap".

From what I can tell that power brick comes with one 24pin connector, one 4 pin molex, and one SATA power connector. Google picoPSU and check out their website for a few more details
 
Ok, so a PicoPSU would work nicely. High efficiency, cut a small hole in a custom backplate, more space for heat dissipation. All I need to find is a 1U heatsink for the CPU, and a PicoPSU with a 24 pin Board power connector + 4 pin Board power connector + 2 SATA power connectors. I'll do some searching.
 
Drunkard #1 said:
NOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!! They're only available for Sybaritic *spits*. I can't bring myself to buy from them. I just can't. Any other options (low wattage preferred).



I see. No, I lied, I don't see. How do these work? Do I get a backplate to plug the brick into, which has slots for SATA power and Board power? Must I get the backplate made? :confused:
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Nope, the brick is similar to a laptop's power, so it doesn't need to go into the case. You just plug this into the PSU itself and the PSU has connectors for the mobo, SATA, IDE and floppy.

picoPSU-120-big3.jpg


Google is your friend:

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article601-page1.html

It's hard not to be delighted with the picoPSU. It's quiet (fanless, in fact), efficient, small, cool... the list goes on. Although it is targeted at systems using VIA's embedded EPIA technology, it can easily be used in a desktop system with a low-powered Athlon 64, to say nothing of a laptop processor such as a Core Duo or a Turion 64.

Its only real disadvantage is its size: 120W isn't quite enough for a system with a decent (read: power-hungry) graphics card. Its limited cable length and connectors may also cause difficulties. But these are small gripes about what is otherwise an excellent power supply.
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