Xbox Series X / S

ToxicBunny said:
I'm an ex-keyboard player from donkey's years ago... plus I'm a mouse warrior in my day job, I click lots of things and shyte happens :p

I know I'll adjust, but also "shooting" games were never my forte, even with a mouse. I'm a Strategy kind of guy more than anything else.
Click to expand...
Those don't translate well on to the controller, they've tried numerous times and non worked.
 
Lupus said:
Those don't translate well on to the controller, they've tried numerous times and non worked.
Click to expand...

Yeah I know they don't... I've tried a few of them and they were horrible in the extreme....

All they need to do is enable Mouse/KB for those games on the console and all will be good though.
 
AfricanTech said:
Snagged one at Incredible Connection - all working.

Thanks

PS: had to search a bit for the correct code since there was no gaming section in the codes pamphlet - eventually found it in the AV section.
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Not been following this conversation closely, but you saying that remote works well and has a working back button?
 
GrootBaas said:
Not been following this conversation closely, but you saying that remote works well and has a working back button?
Click to expand...
Yes - there is a back arrow button that works well, and, if I'm not mistaken, the colour buttons correspond to B (red) Y (rellow) X (blue) A (green). I haven't looked to see if any of the buttons correspond to the LT/RB/LB/RT or the [three lines] or [2 small overlapping squares] buttons but for the purposes of controlling Plex, Netflix, DSTV, Spotify and YouTube I haven't needed those buttons.

To make it easier for the others in the house, I setup a 'dummy' user that doesn't need a login PIN on the Xbox that presents the Media Apps on the homescreen.

I also configured the remote to work with the Sound Bar and set the Volume rocker to default to that (tip - download the manual in pdf format from the All in One site 'cos it's written in a 2 point font).

Oh ja, no issues with line of sight either - the signal bounces off happily off the walls to reach the console.
 
AfricanTech said:
Yes - there is a back arrow button that works well, and, if I'm not mistaken, the colour buttons correspond to B (red) Y (rellow) X (blue) A (green). I haven't looked to see if any of the buttons correspond to the LT/RB/LB/RT or the [three lines] or [2 small overlapping squares] buttons but for the purposes of controlling Plex, Netflix, DSTV, Spotify and YouTube I haven't needed those buttons.

To make it easier for the others in the house, I setup a 'dummy' user that doesn't need a login PIN on the Xbox that presents the Media Apps on the homescreen.

I also configured the remote to work with the Sound Bar and set the Volume rocker to default to that (tip - download the manual in pdf format from the All in One site 'cos it's written in a 2 point font).

Oh ja, no issues with line of sight either - the signal bounces off happily off the walls to reach the console.
Click to expand...

Hint: Even if you programmed it via code you can reprogram individual buttons as well. So when set to game, I programmed volume to change soundbar instead of xbox and such.

Helps a bit if you use it to reduce switching devices ;)
 
AfricanTech said:
Snagged one at Incredible Connection - all working.

Thanks

PS: had to search a bit for the correct code since there was no gaming section in the codes pamphlet - eventually found it in the AV section.
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Why not just use the official Xbox remote?
 
AfricanTech said:
You mean the controller?

I have my reasons...:ROFL:
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No the remote. Controller is annoying because it has to stay on and all that.

But more so why oh why did they remove the system that kills notifications when watching fullscreen? Now it's only Do Not Disturb mode that fixes that and you need to go turn it on every damn time.

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SauRoNZA said:
No the remote. Controller is annoying because it has to stay on and all that.

But more so why oh why did they remove the system that kills notifications when watching fullscreen? Now it's only Do Not Disturb mode that fixes that and you need to go turn it on every damn time.

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Click to expand...
Oh,

R239 vs R485 and of course

1645449992893.png

If I could find stock I'd probably have gone for the official one.

That said, the AIO does offer additional advantages for my use case (eg being able to connect to soundbar) etc.
 
SauRoNZA said:
No the remote. Controller is annoying because it has to stay on and all that.

But more so why oh why did they remove the system that kills notifications when watching fullscreen? Now it's only Do Not Disturb mode that fixes that and you need to go turn it on every damn time.

Takealot.com: Online Shopping | SA's leading online store

South Africa's leading online store. Fast, reliable delivery to your door. Many ways to pay. Shop anything you can imagine: TVs, laptops, cellphones, kitchen appliances, toys, books, beauty & more. Shop the mobile app anytime, anywhere.
www.takealot.com www.takealot.com
Click to expand...
1645450112963.png
 
AfricanTech said:
Oh,

R239 vs R485 and of course

View attachment 1249852

If I could find stock I'd probably have gone for the official one.

That said, the AIO does offer additional advantages for my use case (eg being able to connect to soundbar) etc.
Click to expand...
Yeah but HDMI-CEC does that job for you so shouldn't need a remote to change volume etc on the soundbar.

But sure didn't realise there is a stock issue.

It's a great remote and the fact it lights up is a feature every other bloody remote needs.
 
SauRoNZA said:
Yeah but HDMI-CEC does that job for you so shouldn't need a remote to change volume etc on the soundbar.

But sure didn't realise there is a stock issue.

It's a great remote and the fact it lights up is a feature every other bloody remote needs.
Click to expand...

My downstream components are, ahem, a bit legacy....oldish projector and soundbar without HDMI - has Bluetooth and Optical only)

Xbox feeds into a Projector and Soundbar via HDMI/Optical splitter

Xbox - splitter - Projecter (picture) - Soundbar (sound)

HDMI-CEC doesn't work in this setup

And of course the new Xbox's aren't able to connect external speakers via line-out or Bluetooth
 
AfricanTech said:
My downstream components are, ahem, a bit legacy....oldish projector and soundbar without HDMI - has Bluetooth and Optical only)

Xbox feeds into a Projector and Soundbar via HDMI/Optical splitter

Xbox - splitter - Projecter (picture) - Soundbar (sound)

HDMI-CEC doesn't work in this setup

And of course the new Xbox's aren't able to connect external speakers via line-out or Bluetooth
Click to expand...

I seem to recall you could actually program remote codes into it, but that may have been the old 360 Remote which had numbers on.

Either way, makes sense yeah.
 
quite impressed with the load times on the series s

fh5 used to take atleast a min or more to load and now its seconds

and the graphics is on another level
 
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