koffiejunkie
Executive Member
LOL, that's a good idea. Do some proper spying on him before you go.
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Question of the Day: If you were buying a TV today, which brand would you choose?
LOL, that's a good idea. Do some proper spying on him before you go.
Lol... I meant if he dissappears after selling me a dud.
Do these camera's have service menu's listing amount of photo's taken, etc?
Nope.
Damn... any tips if I go for the one on BoB? (things to check for to confirm its local stock, new, etc)
I don't think there will be any problems though, If you check the responses, they've sold a few camera's... including the 40D for just under 10k (lens included)... maybe I should wait for one of those.
I don't think there will be any problems though, If you check the responses, they've sold a few camera's... including the 40D for just under 10k (lens included)... maybe I should wait for one of those.
koffiejunkie
Executive Member
The one I linked or the one you linked? The one I linked won't be local stock.
Sounds too good to be true.
The one I linked for 8K... I can then get a decent lens. The person has 100% rating, and sells various things, including he odd camera.
Here's the link to the 40D... although she actually bought it, my bad.
koffiejunkie
Executive Member
Well, there's a Q&A section so you can always ask.
I have been... check below the ad... quick responses also.
That link was to a second hand 40D.
I thought it was one she sold, but she actually bought it...
Make sure you get the 50mm f/1.8 while you're shopping - you wont regret it.
Not sure about the 70-300 (is that the one koffiejunkie has?). I've got the 28-300mm macro and love it (even if it is in for repairs).
the 70-300 is the one that the camera comes with, the 450D for R8,000.
Its the Sigma 70-300mm F4-5.6 DG MACRO Lens
ldmelsa
Executive Member
F4-5.6 means max aperture. It's basically the widest that the lens can open, 4 being at its wide end and 5.6 fully zoomed in.
I always get aperture confused.... when we talking open we're talking about the hole that lets the light in (basic terms)? So the 4 would be at 70mm, and the 5.6 at 300mm?
But the minimum aperture of F22 is throughout 70-300mm?
Last question... the 'lower' the apature, e.g. F4, the more the 'entire' image will be in focus, and the higher. F22, the more specific the focus will be, i.e. background blur'd out?
But the minimum aperture of F22 is throughout 70-300mm?
Last question... the 'lower' the apature, e.g. F4, the more the 'entire' image will be in focus, and the higher. F22, the more specific the focus will be, i.e. background blur'd out?
Yea I believe F22 throughout the whole zoom range.
F22 aperture closed more and more in focus. Least light comes in at F22 as the hole is smallest. I would need an illustration to explain why more is in focus at smallest opening.
F4 least in focus, F22 most in focus.
So if you want a really blurred back you would use a lower F value. Lower F value means the hole is open bigger, or higher aperture. It's really confusing at first I know...cause higher in minimum and and lower is maximum.
F4 - open most - maximum (as in the hole is open to max)
F22 - open least - minimum (as in the hole is closed to as small as it can go)
Hope that helps a little to remember things.
F22 aperture closed more and more in focus. Least light comes in at F22 as the hole is smallest. I would need an illustration to explain why more is in focus at smallest opening.
F4 least in focus, F22 most in focus.
So if you want a really blurred back you would use a lower F value. Lower F value means the hole is open bigger, or higher aperture. It's really confusing at first I know...cause higher in minimum and and lower is maximum.
F4 - open most - maximum (as in the hole is open to max)
F22 - open least - minimum (as in the hole is closed to as small as it can go)
Hope that helps a little to remember things.
koffiejunkie
Executive Member
If you stand far enough
No seriously - unless you're looking to shoot wide landscapes, you can make 70mm work. It's the 70-300mm F4-5.6 DG MACRO. Mine is the 70-300mm F4-5.6 APO DG MACRO - the only difference is the APO glass which according to their website is a "special low dispersion" glass. From their own graphs there doesn't seem to be much difference though.
I didn't find many. Take care when you find something, this is not the "Macro Super Reviews" The Super is the one the APO replaces.
It should read "f/4-5.6" or "f/22" - ratio of focal length to effective aperture diameter. Read this. To add to the confusion - a lower number is considered "fast" while a higher number is considered "slow."
Correct.
No, the other way around. At f/22 more will be in focus. At f/1.2 you'll have a hard time getting all of someone's face in focus at the same time.
If you want to see how this works, find a fairly dark room with a window. The window needs to face a white (or very light coloured) wall on the inside. Take a large magnifying glass, hold it parallel to the wall directly opposite the window. Usually between 15 and 30 cm away from teh wall, maybe closer. You'll see it will make an up-side-down image of the window on the wall. Move the magnifying glass back and forth until the picture is in focus. Cool, eh? Now, cut a circle in a sheet of cardboard or paper, with a radius about 20% less than the magnifying glass. This translates into roughly 33% of the surface size of the magnifying glass (if I remember highschool maths correctly). Now hold it in front of the magnifying glass. You'll notice two things (again, if memory serves correctly - I haven't tried this in 20 years):
1. The image will be the same size - it is determined by the curve of the glass, not the size.
2. The image will be much much less bright. About 33% less, in fact. That's how aperture works.
And if you dont already subscribe to TWIP maybe you should
+1 on that!