Your Raspberry Pi Projects

deesef

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Mar 3, 2017
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Eventually I'll do away with the B315 and just have the Edgerouter when our fibre is finally live, and I can actually power the Edgerouter using PoE passthrough which is quite handy. So then I could, in fact, use the DC output at 5V and just find a DC to MicroUSB adapter. By Jones, I think we've got a solution!
The fibre ONT wil probably require 12v, if you need internet access when the power is off...
 

PhireSide

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Dec 31, 2006
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The fibre ONT wil probably require 12v, if you need internet access when the power is off...
Oh yes, didn't think about that. Facepalm

EDIT: Setup Grafana last night to pull in some local Rpi stats. I only installed it yesterday afternoon so I'm still figuring it out, but I'd like to try and pull network traffic stats using SNMP when I have the time again.

EDIT EDIT: I think the most elegant solution for me would to just get rid of the Gizzu and replace it with one of those Ratel 860P's when they are back in stock. They have double the capacity vs what I have right now (16.6Ah vs 8.8Ah) and they have dedicated USB ports on the actual unit, so I can drive 5VDC/9VDC/12VDC, 5V USB and 24V PoE from one elegant unit.

I guess the SO is getting the power bank after all :)
 
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Pseudonym

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Sep 5, 2009
Messages
731
With the latest VLC updates you can now finally play 1080p H265 files fullscreen. Great news.
On which board? Would be great for me if it was the Pi 3. I wonder which part of the chain was optimised and whether it was a shared library such that other software (Kodi in particular) would benefit as well.
 

hjst45

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Mar 23, 2013
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290
You might be surprised. The ARM processors traditionally punched above their weight performance wise and I would guess that a modern ARM would handle something like a Wordpress site pretty well (from a CPU point of view at any rate.)

When the PI first came out, I thought it would kick the Arduino into touch for cheap embedded applications but now I think that both will occupy complementary spaces. They would both be a great addition to any classroom.
Microcontroller programming is highly sought after at the moment, too few guys who can do it...
 

backstreetboy

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Jun 15, 2011
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On which board? Would be great for me if it was the Pi 3. I wonder which part of the chain was optimised and whether it was a shared library such that other software (Kodi in particular) would benefit as well.
The Pi 4 with HW decoder. Doubt the Pi 3 would be able to handle it but you can try Libreelec 19.2 AFAIK the fixes are there aswell.
 

PhireSide

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Dec 31, 2006
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These 3B+ Pi's run quite warm, I must say.

Mine is currently idling at 65*C inside the Brix case I ordered it with:



Removing the top half of the case drops it to around 58*C, and I have disabled BT and Wifi to get the power draw a little less. Currently it's in an empty cupboard in a room in our house, with an ambient temperature of around 24*C. I have a heatsink attached to the main SoC chipset housing the ARM cores and it gets quite warm to the touch, so I have no doubt it does transfer some heat away from the board.
 

K3NS31

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Jul 19, 2009
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These 3B+ Pi's run quite warm, I must say.

Mine is currently idling at 65*C inside the Brix case I ordered it with:



Removing the top half of the case drops it to around 58*C, and I have disabled BT and Wifi to get the power draw a little less. Currently it's in an empty cupboard in a room in our house, with an ambient temperature of around 24*C. I have a heatsink attached to the main SoC chipset housing the ARM cores and it gets quite warm to the touch, so I have no doubt it does transfer some heat away from the board.
Yeah, my 3 also has a heatsink, and I "upgraded" from the original pi case to one with holes above the chip. No idea what temp it runs but it doesn't shut down so that's the main thing.
 

PhireSide

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Yeah, my 3 also has a heatsink, and I "upgraded" from the original pi case to one with holes above the chip. No idea what temp it runs but it doesn't shut down so that's the main thing.
The 3B that I had previously was a very cool-running board, but the + seems to be much worse WRT thermals. At the moment I am running it off the B315 USB port (headless, only 5V USB + LAN plugged in) so I am getting 0x50005 when I run vcgencmd get_throttled which causes it to remain at 600MHz clockspeed anyway. When plugged into the official Rpi PSU, it boosts up to 1400MHz as per the device spec when running sysbench but temps are unchanged.

I am toying with the idea of using some Lego and making a 'case' out of Technics parts to try and get some airflow around the board and components.

As soon as I have some spare time I will fire up leocad and see what I can hack together.
 

PhireSide

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So an update on my little venture:

  • The Adata powerbank doesn't actually supply 5v as per the spec sheet, but rather ~4.6v. The Pi3 voltage regulator squeals at anything lower than 4.73v and clocks the ARM cores down to 600MHz until a reboot is performed. If the sensor grabs 4.75v and up upon reboot, it will not throttle the ARM cores. I tried with the 1A and 2.1A outputs on the Adata powerbank, to no avail.

  • The Boabab Micro-USB Travel Adapter, rated 5v and 2.1A, also only delivers around 4.7v at best and fails to power the Pi properly. I am using a very short (15cm) thick little USB cable that was supplied with the powerbank, so internal resistance should be low. There are no AWG numbers on the cable, however, so I am speculating that it must be around 24/26. My other USB cables are all 28AWG and much longer so I didn't try them.

  • (off topic) Even the weedeater bump feed head that I ordered along with the above is incorrect, as it doesn't include the piece that mounts on the shaft - so I can essentially return my entire order due to it not being suitable for my needs.
My best bet would be to pull a 9V supply off the Gizzu powerbank and use a buck converter and set it at 5.1v to power the Pi, and increase it to get exactly 5v at the microUSB end. This is becoming one massive headache :(
 

K3NS31

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So an update on my little venture:

  • The Adata powerbank doesn't actually supply 5v as per the spec sheet, but rather ~4.6v. The Pi3 voltage regulator squeals at anything lower than 4.73v and clocks the ARM cores down to 600MHz until a reboot is performed. If the sensor grabs 4.75v and up upon reboot, it will not throttle the ARM cores. I tried with the 1A and 2.1A outputs on the Adata powerbank, to no avail.

  • The Boabab Micro-USB Travel Adapter, rated 5v and 2.1A, also only delivers around 4.7v at best and fails to power the Pi properly. I am using a very short (15cm) thick little USB cable that was supplied with the powerbank, so internal resistance should be low. There are no AWG numbers on the cable, however, so I am speculating that it must be around 24/26. My other USB cables are all 28AWG and much longer so I didn't try them.

  • (off topic) Even the weedeater bump feed head that I ordered along with the above is incorrect, as it doesn't include the piece that mounts on the shaft - so I can essentially return my entire order due to it not being suitable for my needs.
My best bet would be to pull a 9V supply off the Gizzu powerbank and use a buck converter and set it at 5.1v to power the Pi, and increase it to get exactly 5v at the microUSB end. This is becoming one massive headache :(
Or a boost converter from one of your 5V sources (well, almost 5V, lol) just to pump it up a bit. Assuming you have enough current to play with as well.
 

Urist

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Mar 20, 2015
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So an update on my little venture:

  • The Adata powerbank doesn't actually supply 5v as per the spec sheet, but rather ~4.6v. The Pi3 voltage regulator squeals at anything lower than 4.73v and clocks the ARM cores down to 600MHz until a reboot is performed. If the sensor grabs 4.75v and up upon reboot, it will not throttle the ARM cores. I tried with the 1A and 2.1A outputs on the Adata powerbank, to no avail.

  • The Boabab Micro-USB Travel Adapter, rated 5v and 2.1A, also only delivers around 4.7v at best and fails to power the Pi properly. I am using a very short (15cm) thick little USB cable that was supplied with the powerbank, so internal resistance should be low. There are no AWG numbers on the cable, however, so I am speculating that it must be around 24/26. My other USB cables are all 28AWG and much longer so I didn't try them.

  • (off topic) Even the weedeater bump feed head that I ordered along with the above is incorrect, as it doesn't include the piece that mounts on the shaft - so I can essentially return my entire order due to it not being suitable for my needs.
My best bet would be to pull a 9V supply off the Gizzu powerbank and use a buck converter and set it at 5.1v to power the Pi, and increase it to get exactly 5v at the microUSB end. This is becoming one massive headache :(
I'll check if my router power backup. 12v gate battery + car charger gives 5v
 

SBSP

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Sep 7, 2007
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653

PhireSide

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Or a boost converter from one of your 5V sources (well, almost 5V, lol) just to pump it up a bit. Assuming you have enough current to play with as well.
What I eventually did was follow the advice given to me by @Daruk and added avoid_warnings=2 to config.txt and my power issues seem to have disappeared. It now boosts to 1400MHz and seems stable enough for daily usage. Time will tell whether I will encounter SD corruption over the coming months, but I am not running much on there and can have it set up as it is in around an hour.

I should just dd a backup img of it but I am pretty lazy. Maybe I'll look into it when I have a day off again :)
 

Daruk

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What I eventually did was follow the advice given to me by @Daruk and added avoid_warnings=2 to config.txt and my power issues seem to have disappeared. It now boosts to 1400MHz and seems stable enough for daily usage. Time will tell whether I will encounter SD corruption over the coming months, but I am not running much on there and can have it set up as it is in around an hour.

I should just dd a backup img of it but I am pretty lazy. Maybe I'll look into it when I have a day off again :)
Nice. Should be fine. That thing is just a warning, as long as the source can compensate for the lower volts with amps it'll be fine.
 

backstreetboy

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Jun 15, 2011
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I just downloaded chromeOS and extracted the library from the ISO. Back when the PI2 launched I did this to get Netflix to work. But back then there was no GL support for chromium and the stream was super jittery.

Has things changed since then ?
Works great in Kodi. Super smooth.
 

K3NS31

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Jul 19, 2009
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Super interesting write up about Pi4 heating issues and firmware updates from the Pi foundation.
Also useful TLDR tip - keep your Pi vertical.

 

dualmeister

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Oct 15, 2005
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Windows 10 now runs on the Raspberry Pi 4 and 3

Developers have finally installed ARM-optimized version of Windows 10 on the Raspberry Pi 4 after some people managed to get it running on the Raspberry Pi 3 in the first half of 2019.

Raspberry Pi 4 and Pi 3 officially support the IoT Core version of Windows 10, which is not same as the version of Windows 10 that runs on a desktop but is a stripped-back release for low-power computer board.

More
 

backstreetboy

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Jun 15, 2011
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14,503
Windows 10 now runs on the Raspberry Pi 4 and 3

Developers have finally installed ARM-optimized version of Windows 10 on the Raspberry Pi 4 after some people managed to get it running on the Raspberry Pi 3 in the first half of 2019.

Raspberry Pi 4 and Pi 3 officially support the IoT Core version of Windows 10, which is not same as the version of Windows 10 that runs on a desktop but is a stripped-back release for low-power computer board.

More
No thanks. Open source FTW! Just fixed keyboard shortcuts on my Rpi with a simple copy command sudo cp /etc/xdg/openbox/lxde-pi-rc.xml /home/pi/.config/openbox and it felt like I conquered the world.
 
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