1000w solar panel? Is it even true

Cosmik Debris said:
Yes, it was Grade 8 science. Shows how dumbed down education has become. In Grade 9 you were producing hydrogen and oxygen by electrolysing water.
Click to expand...
Yet here we are with people who learnt this stuff in Grade 8 thinking you need a fridge size breaker to switch a 1000V, isn't life just awesome?
 
itareanlnotani said:
Stop being a dumbass.

Heres the model i actually own, here in .za

It takes up to 1000V DC

View attachment 1155894

The output is 3 phase AC.
Click to expand...
I also have a 1000V DC rated breaker in there (not pictured as its on the DC input side to the left).

It's definitely not "fridge sized", more like standard equipment sized (similar to the other breakers pictured)

Its about the amount of power, not the voltage.

eg. I have a 63A 1000V DC breaker which can push around 6KA.


If you want something Fridge sized, you're probably pushing a ton more through it, and would probably be closer to 600A @ 1000V, and would be a fairly decent sized industrial system.

I wouldn't want to be turning that one on and off, will be "fun".
 
Last edited:
Cosmik Debris said:
Something horribly wrong with that info:

Voltage rating 880VDC / 1000VDC – 50Hz / 60Hz
Click to expand...
Not sure where the frequency (Hz) comes in, but solar panels produce DC. In this case a single panel produces a maximum of 70V open-circuit voltage (VoC / no load) at STC (Standard Test Conditions), and the Maximum System Voltage is 1000V DC. The latter refers to a system, so no more than 14 panels in series.

Cosmik Debris said:
The reason DC breakers are so big is they pull an arc and need arc quenchers which AC breakers don't due to the 0V of the sine wave.
Click to expand...

Correct, DC arcing isn't AC arcing, that's why special DC breakers are used, as in the picture. Also note that any fault or dry joint in the system is a huge fire hazard, that's why special connectors are used, like QC 4.10. Note also that size of switchgear and cabling are proportional to amps, not volts.

Cosmik Debris said:
1000 Volts is common on solar panels? Yeah right. What voltage do the batteries run at? I suppose you have DC transformers to step the 1000 Volts down to the battery voltage too?
Click to expand...
Maximum System Voltage is 1000V DC, as above.
 
Last edited:
Cosmik Debris said:
I worked in the industry and have a high voltage certification and lock out tag out authority (Brady system). Tell me about your experience?
Click to expand...
My experience? I know you don't need a fridge sized circuit breaker to switch 1000Vdc, looks like some very valuable experience that can be useful for someone of your stature.
 
Cosmik Debris said:
1000 Volts in there? You're aware of the high voltage protocol for electricians and I stake it you have a high voltage certification to be allowed to work on it? How high does your meter read?
Click to expand...
I don't run it at 1000v, i run it at 450v or so (as efficiency is better in that range).
It could run at a max of 1000v, although it wouldn't be as efficient.


Also just so you know -

All electrical installations on premises must comply with the requirements of SANS 10142 – code of practice for the wiring of premises – part 1. The current code does not specifically address solar installations but does cover DC installations up to 1500 V DC

"low voltage" means the set of nominal voltage levels that are used for the distribution of electricity and whose upper limit is generally accepted to be an a.c. voltage of 1000V (or a d.c. voltage of 1500 V). [SANS 1019]

The limit of 1500 V for DC makes the higher voltage solar PV systems fall within the scope of the code, and no special provisions apply. 1500 V DC systems are thus subject to the same requirements as 1000 V and 600 V systems.

(mostly snarfed from here - https://www.ee.co.za/article/high-voltage-rooftop-solar-developments.html as its been a while since I read the code, and did the install ).


So again, stop talking kak.
 
Cosmik Debris said:
Why would you need a system voltage of 1000V in a home system?
Click to expand...
Efficiency in getting the electrons from generated source, to where it's used. At low voltages / high current, one needs to use very thick cables, and copper is expensive. So using higher voltage, lower current, means thinner and cheaper wires.
 
TheChamp said:
Yes, that's what the kA value means on circuit breakers.
Click to expand...

How thick are those conductors to push 6000 Amps without glowing? You realise that amount of current is pushed through bus bars? And that would take an enormous breaker to interrupt? And for DC it would need arc quenchers? How much can your house plug take? Now work out its size for 6000A.
 
Cosmik Debris said:
How thick are those conductors to push 6000 Amps without glowing? You realise that amount of current is pushed through bus bars? And that would take an enormous breaker to interrupt? And for DC it would need arc quenchers? How much can your house plug take? Now work out its size for 6000A.
Click to expand...
They only need to handle it for a very short period of time so there won't be time to glow, because that's what the CB is there for, to prevent the conductors from glowing.
 
RonSwanson said:
Efficiency in getting the electrons from generated source, to where it's used. At low voltages / high current, one needs to use very thick cables, and copper is expensive. So using higher voltage, lower current, means thinner and cheaper wires.
Click to expand...

Ron, this is for long distance AC transmission. Long distance DC transmission requires thick cables, the reason long distance transmission is via AC, thinner cables and high voltage.

No local authority is going to allow 1000V system distribution in a house. Houses are 220V, Factories 380V and maritime voltages 440V. The Eskom breaker for most houses is 80 Amps but according to some here, their systems are capable of 6000 Amps. Those are industrial power requirements and specialised personnel are required to work with and switch them.
 
Cosmik Debris said:
How thick are those conductors to push 6000 Amps without glowing? You realise that amount of current is pushed through bus bars? And that would take an enormous breaker to interrupt? And for DC it would need arc quenchers? How much can your house plug take? Now work out its size for 6000A.
Click to expand...
The value of the kA rating determines how much current the circuit breaker can withstand under fault conditions. For example, a value of 6kA means that the circuit breaker can withstand 6,000 amps of current during the brief time it takes to trip.
 
TheChamp said:
They only need to handle it for a very short period of time so there won't be time to glow, because that's what the CB is there for, to prevent the conductors from glowing.
Click to expand...

Your electrical knowledge is dangerous. Why would you need to handle 6000 Amps in a home at all and what to you is a short time? So, according to you it's acceptable to massively overload a system for "a short time"? What do the regulations state regarding overcurrent delay and instantaneous trips and what percentage overload is acceptable?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top
Sign up to the MyBroadband newsletter
X