2008 Opel Corsa lite issues

Are the Midas prices all suppose to be the same? The Midas closest to me just quoted me R850 and the Midas I phoned earlier was R550
 
I have spent the last 2 hours trying to take this cover off. I have removed the center nuts. I have googled videos and it should pull off but it isnt. I need to replace my rear breaks. Anyone can give me some tips pls.
 

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carnagelan said:
I have spent the last 2 hours trying to take this cover off. I have removed the center nuts. I have googled videos and it should pull off but it isnt. I need to replace my rear breaks. Anyone can give me some tips pls.
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Handbrake down? Does it rotate when you move it by hand? Did you remove the bearing?
 
Hand break is down. It does roatate but not easily as if something is stuck.

When i push the breaks while i was driving. There is a heavy grinding sound on this breaks so thats why i am opening them to replace
 
carnagelan said:
Hand break is down. It does roatate but not easily as if something is stuck.

When i push the breaks while i was driving. There is a heavy grinding sound on this breaks so thats why i am opening them to replace
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What about the bearing, did it come out?
 
Then it's probably the brakes not releasing, it's going to be a challenge. Perhaps try putting the bolts on to use them to tug it off. Give it a couple of whacks with a hammer while wiggling, tap it back in and pull, repeat it a couple of times and hopefully it will release.
 
thechamp said:
Then it's probably the brakes not releasing, it's going to be a challenge. Perhaps try putting the bolts on to use them to tug it off. Give it a couple of whacks with a hammer while wiggling, tap it back in and pull, repeat it a couple of times and hopefully it will release.
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I will try that in the morning. Thanks for the tip
 
I think it might be the handbreak cable. Maybe to tight and thats why the cover isnt coming off. Just trying to figure out when the nut is to looses the cable
 
Ive spent another hour trying to take off the rear wheel from the other side. Also giving same kak. It feels like something is pulling it back Into place. Ill try again tomorrow.
Thanks for your help Champ.
 
So i put a wheel on with 2 botls and then wiggled it like that. Good news is it came off.

The side that isnt giving issues came off.
It is filthy inside there. When i pushed the breaks the cylinda sprayer break fluid out. I
 
carnagelan said:
So i put a wheel on with 2 botls and then wiggled it like that. Good news is it came off.

The side that isnt giving issues came off.
It is filthy inside there. When i pushed the breaks the cylinda sprayer break fluid out. I
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You are not supposed to push in the brake pedal with the drum removed.
 
carnagelan said:
Ok. I learnt something new. Thanks
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The drum is supposed to offer resistance to the brake piston when you brake, braking without a drum extends the piston too far and causes the fluid leak.

You now have air in your brake lines and the brakes would need to be bled properly.
 
thechamp said:
The drum is supposed to offer resistance to the brake piston when you brake, braking without a drum extends the piston too far and causes the fluid leak.

You now have air in your brake lines and the brakes would need to be bled properly.
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I no how to bled so i will do that. Got the breaks out and going to midas now.
 
Good morning to All I have a Opel corsa 1.3 98 model the Ne engine. I have a similar problem with my car over fueling no revs when I start it. In the morning it would start easy but still jerk and in the afternoon when I leaf for home it takes a lot of cranking before it starts and during starts it will back fire. so I started with service and when that did not help replaced all the sensors then the T-bel (I Have Double checked my timing and is Very sure that it is right) Replaced crank gear, crank pickup, coil, plug leads tested and cleaned my injectors and intake butterfly. replaced the fuel pump relay and fuel pump.After all that it ran sort of ok for a few day's and last night it acted up again checked my plugs an sow it's black as night replaced them wit new ones, so after that it starts but does not rev up. After a few min running the exhaust manifold become extremely red so I switched it off and towed it home. I have a OBD 2 Diagnostic tester but can't seem to get it to connect to the Car's computer,because the check engine light is on. This exercise is starting to cost me a lot. Any Thoughts on where else I can search for the problem. There is no holes in the exhaust and the car is defiantly over fueling. I also get some oil in the intake from the tappet cover and think that might also be part of the problem. I also found that the Fuel relay Became extremely hot some times. So I have checked the earth wires on the engine but all is ok there. Hope this Is enough info For someone that can Help Please it's not my best car It's my Only. Thanks so far have a nice day All.
 
cavedog said:
These cars have 3 issues with regards to sensors.

Idle control valve. Gets dirty affecting idling.
Coilpack. Sits next to the engine block so the heat breaks it.
Crank angle sensor.

Icv is R180 Goldwagon
Coilpack is R450 at Midas
Crank sensor is R160 at Midas

You don't need to replace them unless they are faulty just giving you a headsup.
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Tell me I suspected that my coil is faulty again coz gt little spark on no 1 an 3 the other 2 and is working well..... belive me I felt it.....o_O
now that u said the heat can damage it, if it is the cause how can one isolate the heat from it I recived a new coil today and want to test it tonight. and if it works it wil be my 3rd coil then I need to find a way to isolate the heat from it?????
 
Overfueling will not make your manifold glow red with heat. Rather underfueling. too much air in the fuelratio burns hotter, more power and then melts your engine. those two symptons seesm to clash a bit.
Unless the outlet valves are still open, loss of power and the flames down the exhaust.

You did not mention watertemp sender. Car is warm, but it thinks it is still cold. Will over fuel your car. Give you all the symptoms you state.

Make 100% of your timing.

Make sure idle control valve is clean.
 
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