All things Shelly

Steamy Tom said:
lord that wiring though xD is that a burn mark on the one red wire xD
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I won't lie, jthis thick wiring is nasty, but the law.

Will have to check the mark, don't think it's a burn mark. Maybe a mark to show which live go to other switch ir is from dB board.
 
Tinuva said:
In August 2019 I was in the UK and was able to acquire 3 Shelly 1 switches at the time. Had them lying around until now.

Installed 1st one just now.
a354437e6b5a8570af886021f4611dce.jpg


There more wires there, because this house have another light switch feeding off this one. Was annoying because the dining lights could only be switched on if the kitchen light is on. So also rectified that little problem when I found the wires at the switch. Saves me another trip into the ceiling.

Must say, very happy with this little guy.
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Hi Tinuva,

Try to use more choc block terminals for the live, neutral and outputs, chase one wire into the Shelly 1 terminals.

Two or three as illustrated will come undone.
 
ShellySA said:
Hi Tinuva,

Try to use more choc block terminals for the live, neutral and outputs, chase one wire into the Shelly 1 terminals.

Two or three as illustrated will come undone.
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Hi ShellySA,

Thank you for the advice.

For the second part of your suggestion, I already only have a single wire into each terminal on the Shelly 1 terminals, because it literally can't do 2 wires on those tiny terminals.

I do realize I have 4 wires going into a terminal on the physical switch, which I would have done with choc blocks if I was allowed to shop at hardware shops during the lockdown. My test was to make sure if I pull hard on them, that they do not come loose. I wouldn't feel comfortable if they did.

In hindsight, looking at my photo, there is too much copper visible on that terminal on the physical switch and I will fix that best I can for now.

The earth, don't ask me what the previous guy in there did. I know for certification, if there was a metal face plate it needs to be earthed. With the plastic physical switch its not needed, as long as it goes through to the lights. However this previous guy wrapped it around one of the metal screws. I think when I can get my hands on chock blocks, I will put them into that too.
 
Tinuva said:
Hi ShellySA,

Thank you for the advice.

For the second part of your suggestion, I already only have a single wire into each terminal on the Shelly 1 terminals, because it literally can't do 2 wires on those tiny terminals.

I do realize I have 4 wires going into a terminal on the physical switch, which I would have done with choc blocks if I was allowed to shop at hardware shops during the lockdown. My test was to make sure if I pull hard on them, that they do not come loose. I wouldn't feel comfortable if they did.

In hindsight, looking at my photo, there is too much copper visible on that terminal on the physical switch and I will fix that best I can for now.

The earth, don't ask me what the previous guy in there did. I know for certification, if there was a metal face plate it needs to be earthed. With the plastic physical switch its not needed, as long as it goes through to the lights. However this previous guy wrapped it around one of the metal screws. I think when I can get my hands on chock blocks, I will put them into that too.
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I want this lockdown to end so I can get my hands on these guys, I hate shoving three or four wires into a normal terminal block:

1587451287715.png
 
At least those wires are multi-stranded. Mine are a single solid wire and I feel like that makes it a lot harder to get three wires into a single screw terminal. One of them won't get properly gripped and just slide out or the screw catches only half and deforms the wire, making it snap when you bend the mess back into the wall.

I have Shelly dimmers for my one floor now, it's really nice to see how you go down from 27W to 18W and still feel like the room is bright enough while eating or couch-lounging. I want to do the same in my rooms now, but dimmable E27 bulbs were out of stock before lockdown and I didn't want to replace the fittings for GU10 lights.
 
SAguy said:
I want this lockdown to end so I can get my hands on these guys, I hate shoving three or four wires into a normal terminal block:

View attachment 825963
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Those are brilliant. I love using them. I installed my backup power (inverter) myself and had to redo a lot of the wiring. Those terminals made the job a lot easier.
 
I started getting wifi problems this weekend.

I have a Ubiquiti Unifi AC LR access point that has up to now delivered absolutely seller results. But now all of a sudden my 2.4 Ghz band is really poor with bad WiFi experience and many resends.

What baffles me more is that the Shelly's do not always seem to recover. My Sonoff Tasmota devices seem to recover fairly reliably during a bad WiFi spot, but the Shelly's often become unavailable and can only be reset by power cycling them.

A bit of a problem because two 1's are connected to light circuits directly, so I have to throw a breaker, and the other two PM's are in plugs into which stuff like my wifi is plugged into, so a lot of shutdown before I can reset those.

I tried a firmware upgrade tonight, will see if anything is better.
 
ebendl said:
I started getting wifi problems this weekend.

I have a Ubiquiti Unifi AC LR access point that has up to now delivered absolutely seller results. But now all of a sudden my 2.4 Ghz band is really poor with bad WiFi experience and many resends.

What baffles me more is that the Shelly's do not always seem to recover. My Sonoff Tasmota devices seem to recover fairly reliably during a bad WiFi spot, but the Shelly's often become unavailable and can only be reset by power cycling them.

A bit of a problem because two 1's are connected to light circuits directly, so I have to throw a breaker, and the other two PM's are in plugs into which stuff like my wifi is plugged into, so a lot of shutdown before I can reset those.

I tried a firmware upgrade tonight, will see if anything is better.
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Hi ebendl,

Your AP gave intermittent connectivity issues whereas your router was working fine?

With MESH topography you could try to enable multicast routing.
 
ShellySA said:
Hi ebendl,

Your AP gave intermittent connectivity issues whereas your router was working fine?

With MESH topography you could try to enable multicast routing.
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It's a Wifi issue -- connectivity on the router is fine (I have a Mikrotik router connected to a single Unifi access point). I don't run a mesh network.

My main problem is that when the wifi goes down (or something -- still figuring that one out), all devices reconnect except the Shelly's with stock firmware. All 4 that I run have now given me problems. I can see in the Unifi logs that they do reconnect a couple of times, but then somewhere they disconnect and never come back.

The Shelly firmware upgrade didn't help at all unfortunately. Pretty much planning on flashing them to Tasmota over the weekend.
 
ebendl said:
I started getting wifi problems this weekend.

I have a Ubiquiti Unifi AC LR access point that has up to now delivered absolutely seller results. But now all of a sudden my 2.4 Ghz band is really poor with bad WiFi experience and many resends.

What baffles me more is that the Shelly's do not always seem to recover. My Sonoff Tasmota devices seem to recover fairly reliably during a bad WiFi spot, but the Shelly's often become unavailable and can only be reset by power cycling them.

A bit of a problem because two 1's are connected to light circuits directly, so I have to throw a breaker, and the other two PM's are in plugs into which stuff like my wifi is plugged into, so a lot of shutdown before I can reset those.

I tried a firmware upgrade tonight, will see if anything is better.
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Only one AP?

What are your power output settings? If it's on Auto try High, if it's on something else try Auto. Also you might want to set your 2.4Ghz to HT20 to provide a bit more range but you will restrict it to 144Mb only then...worth the compromise I reckon.

Also I would advise putting the Wifi AI so that it scans every night and adjusts your channels accordingly. (The auto setting will appear to be manual, but it will simply set it manually every night)
 
SauRoNZA said:
Only one AP?

What are your power output settings? If it's on Auto try High, if it's on something else try Auto. Also you might want to set your 2.4Ghz to HT20 to provide a bit more range but you will restrict it to 144Mb only then...worth the compromise I reckon.

Also I would advise putting the Wifi AI so that it scans every night and adjusts your channels accordingly. (The auto setting will appear to be manual, but it will simply set it manually every night)
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Yeah, bought one first to give it a go (coming from a TP-Link AC router) and was super impressed just by how it improved my network at that time. Well, until now. Have been planning on buying another, but most of the devices are on 2.4Ghz so not sure if that would help. I have a lot of Sonoffs / Shelly's / Zigbee devices / Chromecasts (some on 5Ghz, some not).

I've put the 2.4Ghz band on channel 11 after running an RF scan to see what looks cleanest, and I've set the channel width to HT20 pretty much from the start.

Power is on auto, so will try changing that one.

Had the AI on for one night but I assume it disconnects all clients to run, right? So wasn't sure if that was making it worse, switched it off again the next morning.

Side note: happy to take the Unifi discussion to another thread / DMs.
 
ebendl said:
Yeah, bought one first to give it a go (coming from a TP-Link AC router) and was super impressed just by how it improved my network at that time. Well, until now. Have been planning on buying another, but most of the devices are on 2.4Ghz so not sure if that would help. I have a lot of Sonoffs / Shelly's / Zigbee devices / Chromecasts (some on 5Ghz, some not).

I've put the 2.4Ghz band on channel 11 after running an RF scan to see what looks cleanest, and I've set the channel width to HT20 pretty much from the start.

Power is on auto, so will try changing that one.

Had the AI on for one night but I assume it disconnects all clients to run, right? So wasn't sure if that was making it worse, switched it off again the next morning.

Side note: happy to take the Unifi discussion to another thread / DMs.
Click to expand...

Yeah I also had only one LR initially and then later added another.

In retrospect and what I tell people now is to rather get 2 x Lites for the same money. Especially for the 5ghz factor and range being much lower.

AI is meant to disconnect clients when it runs or that’s what they warn about but I’ve not witnessed any trace of it to be honest.
 
SukkaFoo said:
Where did you buy them from? Should probably ask on the other thread....
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@SukkaFoo send a pm to the @ShellySA

I remember when I had an electrician out for certification, he didn't even look at certs for the plugs at my previous house. Was only interested in the earthing everywhere, that there is no leakage between live and neutral and that the wiring was correct everywhere, especially inside the DB box. They also gave special attention to the wiring to the stove and oven. But if you buy shellies for your garage door, which is 12 or 24v, should be fine with these shellies.
 
SauRoNZA said:
Yeah I also had only one LR initially and then later added another.

In retrospect and what I tell people now is to rather get 2 x Lites for the same money. Especially for the 5ghz factor and range being much lower.

AI is meant to disconnect clients when it runs or that’s what they warn about but I’ve not witnessed any trace of it to be honest.
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Would you say a Lite combined with the LR makes sense? Or should I just get another LR?
 
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