All things Sunsynk (Deye, Inge, etc...)

RanzB said:
I wanted one when I had it installed but was talked out of it because apparently they have a tendency to break easily and cost a lot to fix. I was sceptical but after talking to a few friends, some of them have had this issue.
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Interesting. Funny, thats what I was told as well. They have a far more complicated electronics system I believe. Additional boards. The guy said since I'm at the coast he doesn't recommend it. I think it's more a case of he doesn't want to service it out at my place - 100km from town.
 
TedLasso said:
Ok, so I tried to log into my sunsynk app for the first time in months. After r1/2 moves or whatever was mentioned in this app.

So it tells me my password is not valid. Which it is cos I use a password manager. I tried the forgot password thing where it needs to send a code to the registered email address. Then says not a valid email address .

So does this mean they just deleted everything or do I start again.
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Just change the region…top right.

***

Didn’t realise post is so old. See you see you are sorted.
 
lkpat said:
Interesting. Funny, thats what I was told as well. They have a far more complicated electronics system I believe. Additional boards. The guy said since I'm at the coast he doesn't recommend it. I think it's more a case of he doesn't want to service it out at my place - 100km from town.
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Yeah, apparently it's common and the other issue is that repairs frequently cost as much or close to an entire new system. My microwave just broke, and the guy who evaluated it told me that if I'm getting a new one to stay away from the inverter microwaves.
 
lkpat said:
10A... is that a joke? My geyser would consume more than that. My Kettle would almost consume that.
30 minutes load shedding for who? Only you I assume?
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10A > 0A
The point is to reduce the impact of loadshedding so you can keep on lights, alarms and some other basics.
Not for the heavy draw geysers and kettles.
I'd rather have the 10A than 0A.
I think it's a good approach from Eskom relative to the mess we are in.
Grid shave feature on sunsynk/deye inverters should help control it well
 
lkpat said:
You should calculate BTU from floor space in M2.
I went for 36k because of an open plan room with 70 square meters of space to cool. Once you have the BTU, you can look at the options.

BTU Calculator

Two free calculators estimate the number of BTUs needed to cool or heat a room or house based on its size, insulation, and some other conditions.
www.calculator.net www.calculator.net

From that link, what I can gather is that that system won't cool when it's heavily overcast and it won't cool at night - correct?

What I love about this aircon is that it's uber silent by comparison to traditional aircons and when it's up to temp, it idles nicely at under 1kw consumption. Peak demand is around 3kw.
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Thanks, comes out to 18000BTU. So my system should cope fine. Point taken about the times when it is heavily overcast or after sunset. What make of aircon do you have? Lastly, thanks for the Bluchem tip.
 
glennhurlow said:
It is a beautiful thing!

Any advice from people with experience running air conditioners with their solar? I’m especially interested in something I just discovered today, solar air conditioners (not just running your aircon with solar power).

savingenergy.co.za

Solar Thermal Air Conditioners

What are Solar Air Conditioners & how do they work? The Solar Cool™ system uses the sun and one solar collector to super heat and pressurize environmentally friendly R410 and this delivers the …
savingenergy.co.za savingenergy.co.za

I have an 8kW inverter with a 10kWh battery and 10 x 550kWp panels. How many BTU am I looking at?

Apologies if there is a dedicated thread for this.
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Our 18,000 BTU uses around 1.3 kW when getting the room up to temp, dropping to around 600W once it's at the set temp.

Make sure to get an inverter aircon...
 
Condenser placement also matters. I have 2 of the same ACs cooling about the same size of area, the 1 is fully shaded due to a tree while the other is in full sun in the afternoon. The power consumption of the 1 in full sun is double the shaded unit.
 
glennhurlow said:
Thanks, comes out to 18000BTU. So my system should cope fine. Point taken about the times when it is heavily overcast or after sunset. What make of aircon do you have? Lastly, thanks for the Bluchem tip.
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I have an Alliance unit for the big one - they’re part of the Samsung group. I’ve owned GMC and Keylon units in the past and been happy with them. I’ve also got a Gree which works well but the Alliance is my first inverter type.
 
Mike Hoxbig said:
Our 18,000 BTU uses around 1.3 kW when getting the room up to temp, dropping to around 600W once it's at the set temp.

Make sure to get an inverter aircon...
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This.
Big diffs in electricity use between the regular and inverter models. I imagine a 12000/9000 BTU wil use even less.
 
lkpat said:
I have an Alliance unit for the big one - they’re part of the Samsung group. I’ve owned GMC and Keylon units in the past and been happy with them. I’ve also got a Gree which works well but the Alliance is my first inverter type.
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Also have Alliance. 2x 18000BTU and 1x 9000BTU in the bedroom. All inverter type.

My bedroom one, along with my house base load, sits at 800-900w overnight and uses 50% SOC of my 3x 5.5KW Hubble AM-2's overnight.

One of the bigger one's in the lounge, once the room is cooled to the set 23 degrees, along with the house base load sits at 1200-1300w spooled down.

I love them.
 
lkpat said:
10A... is that a joke? My geyser would consume more than that. My Kettle would almost consume that.
30 minutes load shedding for who? Only you I assume?
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What do you mean 30 minutes of laodshedding ?
\

Fcon_Vpro said:
10A > 0A
The point is to reduce the impact of loadshedding so you can keep on lights, alarms and some other basics.
Not for the heavy draw geysers and kettles.
I'd rather have the 10A than 0A.
I think it's a good approach from Eskom relative to the mess we are in.
Click to expand...
100% + laodshedding no longer works that's why stages keep getting higher and higher
before it had an impact , we all sat with out power unless you had a generator, so they saved the power we didn't use, (the kick from like geysers wasn't so hectic) now more people have invested in inverters, so all that happens is the load shifted only save maybe the street lights -actually you now end up using more then before to charge up.


Fcon_Vpro said:
Grid shave feature on sunsynk/deye inverters should help control it well
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I set mines already so been running full time no issues - will tell you this week how it works when load limiting is implemented
 
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Anyone also showing their inverter offline? SunSynk servers down again.

SunSynkOffline.JPG
 
acp said:
Yip. Again... Round 3 in 10 days (that I know of) for me.
Wonder how much of logged data will be awol this time.

(seems to be back up again now after an hour or so, but portal and app still refreshing very slow for me)
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And again... Make that round 4... :(
Down from 12:55 to 14:30 today.

If this keeps happening on an almost daily basis as it is now, in addition to large gaping holes in historic data, the reported data will eventually become fairly inaccurate and useless to rely on for things like ROI values over time etc.

That's on top of the immediate frustration of not knowing where the SOC's at for all ACs, geysers and pumps to be fired up freely.

Not loving this Sun(cannot)Synk crowd at the moment...
 
That is weird. I have no gap in data, my system has been on since 1 march. Didn't look back further
 
acp said:
And again... Make that round 4... :(
Down from 12:55 to 14:30 today.

If this keeps happening on an almost daily basis as it is now, in addition to large gaping holes in historic data, the reported data will eventually become fairly inaccurate and useless to rely on for things like ROI values over time etc.

That's on top of the immediate frustration of not knowing where the SOC's at for all ACs, geysers and pumps to be fired up freely.

Not loving this Sun(cannot)Synk crowd at the moment...
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How sure are you it's not just intermittent WiFi from your dongle? How good is signal where it is?
 
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