All things Sunsynk (Deye, Inge, etc...)

Also: My apologies for second-guessing you earlier in the thread, it was uncalled for. You were right, your battery was not delivering what it ought to have.

Please forgive me.
 
I'm about to pull the trigger on a 8kW Sunsynk and 2x Greenrich U-P5000 batteries.
Anyone that's using the same setup?

Then secondly, and reason why I post. Did anyone prepare their tile roof before panel install?
Granted, my roof tiles haven't been cleaned in the last 30 years but the south side is very prone for moss to grow in winter and sometimes even last through into late summer. This clogs my gutters and downpipes etc.
Now I hazard a guess that the north side will look similar within a year underneath the panels.

I plan now to paint with Plascon Nuroof Cool as it will help the south side in summer.
Correction: The Greenrich U-P5000 is rated at 2C. One whopper of a battery, but conditions on the specs suggest 1.5C. That's quite big, compared to other batteries.
 
Correction: The Greenrich U-P5000 is rated at 2C. One whopper of a battery, but conditions on the specs suggest 1.5C. That's quite big, compared to other batteries.
Their spec sheet also recommends 0.5C though. I think it's important to note that while some BMS will allow for higher charge/discharge rates, don't this will negatively affect the expected life of the battery. These batteries don't allow higher discharge rates because they have some improved technology, it is just that these manufacturers are willing to allow the trade off. This is not necessarily a bad decision, but it is important to be aware of.
 
I am currently trying to find the right panels for a Sunsynk 5kW install.

Can we confirm what the current MPPT limit is? Will it utilize 13A panels without clipping on the newest firmware?
 
Sure they have stock?
Only place I know of with stock(over 400W) is Rubicon with Longi 550W panels. I bought 7 on Friday for my SunSynk 5kw+SunSynk batt if those ever arrive from Power forum store.
I know its busy but the communications from Power Forum store is atrocious so who knows how long it will take for the rest to arrive.
 
I am currently trying to find the right panels for a Sunsynk 5kW install.

Can we confirm what the current MPPT limit is? Will it utilize 13A panels without clipping on the newest firmware?
I'm in the same boat and torn between 540/550 Watt panels and 455 Watt ones. Many people have indicated that the 540 / 550 ones work fine.

It's important to note the 150 Volt startup and the voltage range of the inverter 125V - 425V. So take care when choosing the amount of panels used, too few panels and the inverter will struggle to start up, to many and you risk damaging the inverter.

On the Sunsynk users and installers Facebook book page, Heine Herholdt (from Herholdts one of the Sunsynk importers), has commented before that 450W ones should be used. Something about some or other internal components that runs the risk of being damaged otherwise.

I'm no expert though amd maybe someone else more knowledgeable can advise better.

Mine's specs on the side still shows 13A and since I haven't upgraded the firmware, I'll work with that.
 
I'm in the same boat and torn between 540/550 Watt panels and 455 Watt ones. Many people have indicated that the 540 / 550 ones work fine.

It's important to note the 150 Volt startup and the voltage range of the inverter 125V - 425V. So take care when choosing the amount of panels used, too few panels and the inverter will struggle to start up, to many and you risk damaging the inverter.

On the Sunsynk users and installers Facebook book page, Heine Herholdt (from Herholdts one of the Sunsynk importers), has commented before that 450W ones should be used. Something about some or other internal components that runs the risk of being damaged otherwise.

I'm no expert though amd maybe someone else more knowledgeable can advise better.

Mine's specs on the side still shows 13A and since I haven't upgraded the firmware, I'll work with that.
Remember the inverter will fail at some stage. it's like every electrical component in your house.

Now let's say you buy a Hilux bakkie. You can drive it at 180km/h every once in a while, but if you always drive it at 180km/h it will always break earlier and you will maybe save you 10 min.

But if you drive it at 100km/h you will get to your destination a bit slower but the bakkie will last you 15 years instead of 5 years.

Same with the inverter. If you stay within the lower specs it will last longer and if you don't need the more power and can wait 10min longer for your battery to charge why run it at its upper limit. Why run the inverter at its upper limits? I would rather have my inverter last 15 years instead of 5.
 
I am currently trying to find the right panels for a Sunsynk 5kW install.

Can we confirm what the current MPPT limit is? Will it utilize 13A panels without clipping on the newest firmware?

On the 5K's MPPT amperage limit, it started out at 11A, then it was increased to 13A, and then throttled back slightly to about 12.8/12.9.

Most important is voltage though, do not exceed 450V, it will end up being expensive.

Look here for some good guidance which Ted Lasso dilligently followed.
 
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I am currently trying to find the right panels for a Sunsynk 5kW install.

Can we confirm what the current MPPT limit is? Will it utilize 13A panels without clipping on the newest firmware?
I havent received mine yet but its still showing as 11A in the last fact sheet. You need a minimum of 150V startup, bit its unlikely anyone is going to be debating the difference between installing 3 and 4 panels...
 
<snip>
1. Is the Master battery dipswitch set?
2. And the Slave?
3. is there a comms cable (usually serial) between master and slave battery?

Just to double-check, are these dip switch settings correct for the master and slave UP5000s?

Master:
1674984703047.png

Slave:
1674984719577.png
 
Just to double-check, are these dip switch settings correct for the master and slave UP5000s?

Master:
View attachment 1465825

Slave:
View attachment 1465827
As they relate to CAN comms with the inverter, only the Master matters. You are running at 9600 baud, and no (resistive) termination of the CAN bus, which seems to work. If you get intermittent comms issues then you can fiddle with it, but right now it seems to be good.
 
My Sunsynk invert is connected to my pylontech through a countertop but I'm gonna be removing it so my question. How difficult is it to disconnect and then reconnect it afterwards and is there anything specific I should be doing before and afterwards?
 
My Sunsynk invert is connected to my pylontech through a countertop but I'm gonna be removing it so my question. How difficult is it to disconnect and then reconnect it afterwards and is there anything specific I should be doing before and afterwards?
Very easy. Just turn it off, disconnect the fuses and then you're good to go. If you need you can take a photo of the connections beforehand to make sure you hook then back up the same way.
 
My Sunsynk invert is connected to my pylontech through a countertop but I'm gonna be removing it so my question. How difficult is it to disconnect and then reconnect it afterwards and is there anything specific I should be doing before and afterwards?
My no1 piece of advice would be to make sure the battery is turned off before you reconnect, unless of course you have a very big cap lying around to pre-charge the inverter caps. If you dont then understand why when you connect the battery cables again... :)
 
My Sunsynk invert is connected to my pylontech through a countertop but I'm gonna be removing it so my question. How difficult is it to disconnect and then reconnect it afterwards and is there anything specific I should be doing before and afterwards?
Not difficult at all. The batteries are an integral part of the Sunsynk Hybrid system, so just keep your head and wits about you, and think the procedure through carefully. It will involve an outage of the power, so prepare family members beforehand.

My own procedure for bringing my system down for maintenance:
  1. Switch off the grid feed breaker to the inverter at the DB;
  2. Flip the changeover switch at DB that bypasses the inverter. This will cause the home power to reset, off and on again;
  3. Switch off the essentials load breaker at DB;
  4. Switch off the PV at the DC breaker DB;
  5. Switch off the PV at the inverter (8K is on the LHS, 5K is underneath);
  6. Switch off the inverter at inverter switch;
  7. Disconnect the battery / fuse breaker;
  8. Switch off battery/ies at the battery.
Steps 6 and 7 are reverseable, it depends if you want the SS to register an error code for no battery or not, I personally don't like unneccsessary error codes, so I do it this way.
Do your maintenance. In your case, you will need to disconnect the two battery cables on the batteries themselves, just pull them off.

Startup is the reverse of the procedure above.
 
Seems my battery and inverter is stuck at 96% SOC..

Reset, rebooted etc. Nothing has worked so far. Will probably have to log a call with Hubble support
 
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