All things Sunsynk (Deye, Inge, etc...)

A form of isolation and overload protection is mandatory.

Disconnect fuses are the most cost effective method of achieving this

DC overload circuit breakers cost at least double what a disconnecting fuse will cost.

The switch and BMS protection built into batteries are not deemed sufficient.
Thanks for the solid feedback makes sense.
 
Opinion on ZBeny spds please? I have managed to put together an AC inverter db with Hager components but require a SPD for it and will likely go CBI but the pv db looks best suited to ZBeny a brand I don't know much about.

Thanks
 
The inverters also support an installer lockout mode where installers can lock the client out for non payment as an example.

If someone were to be malicious they can effectively brick the inverter either through WiFi or the cloud platform. They really should get someone to evaluate their security as I've seen a few concerning things.

Hardwired via LAN cable + HomeAssistant solves the security problem.

The issue of course is that the vast majority of people would find that too hard to setup and maintain.

They really do need to fix the security of the wireless dongles.
 
Good day

Need help with a dongle issue. We had panels installed yesterday, and ever since cannot reconnect the dongle. When checking the device status, the inverter shows as offline. I rebooted the dongle several times, tried to make WIFI reconnection but it fails. Any suggestions? Deye inverter.
 
Opinion on ZBeny spds please? I have managed to put together an AC inverter db with Hager components but require a SPD for it and will likely go CBI but the pv db looks best suited to ZBeny a brand I don't know much about.

Thanks
If you are going Hager, stick with them, they make excellent quality products. Not all can afford them though, so if it's an issue then ZBeny is ok.
 
Hi Synsync forum - hope someone has someone has some advice. I currently have a 5kw Sunsynk inverter + 5kwh Sunsynk combo installed at 2 properties. One of these is an area where the community is trying to limit the current "spike" once the power comes back on after loadshedding. We set this system to charge at only 1300w, but I potentially want to decrease it even further. Is it possible to go lower? Any dangers in making it charge even slower (I typically use about 40% in a loadshedding session, and I realize it will obviously take longer to charge). What is a safe minimum wattage to charge at?
 
Opinion on ZBeny spds please? I have managed to put together an AC inverter db with Hager components but require a SPD for it and will likely go CBI but the pv db looks best suited to ZBeny a brand I don't know much about.

Thanks
When it comes to DC, your only options are mostly chinese brands.
CBI have started manufacturing DC circuit breakers but mostly lower voltages and no DC SPD's. Their higher voltages arent being manufactured in big quantities yet.
I will switch over to CBI DC breakers as soon as they are better stocked.
I have 60a 125v and 100a 80v breakers in my possession but didnt install them as I got them afterwards.

ZBeny are decent but were out of stock when I was looking.
Check out e-glow.co.za for Tomzn and Feo. Its what I ended up using and so far so good.
You can also look at Onesto at lite-glo if they have stock.
 
Hi Synsync forum - hope someone has someone has some advice. I currently have a 5kw Sunsynk inverter + 5kwh Sunsynk combo installed at 2 properties. One of these is an area where the community is trying to limit the current "spike" once the power comes back on after loadshedding. We set this system to charge at only 1300w, but I potentially want to decrease it even further. Is it possible to go lower? Any dangers in making it charge even slower (I typically use about 40% in a loadshedding session, and I realize it will obviously take longer to charge). What is a safe minimum wattage to charge at?
No issues with the lower amounts of current you use to charge a battery.
The issues are at the upper end ie max charge currents.
Sometimes my solar might charge my battery at 3w if that's all the spare solar capacity left after servicing loads.
It all comes down to can you charge fast enough before next loadshedding block. I have mine set to 40a charging via grid, 60a via solar.
 
Hi Synsync forum - hope someone has someone has some advice. I currently have a 5kw Sunsynk inverter + 5kwh Sunsynk combo installed at 2 properties. One of these is an area where the community is trying to limit the current "spike" once the power comes back on after loadshedding. We set this system to charge at only 1300w, but I potentially want to decrease it even further. Is it possible to go lower? Any dangers in making it charge even slower (I typically use about 40% in a loadshedding session, and I realize it will obviously take longer to charge). What is a safe minimum wattage to charge at?
No danger in slower charging (it's actually better for the battery), you just need to check that it's enough to charge the battery between loadshedding sessions.
 
Hi Synsync forum - hope someone has someone has some advice. I currently have a 5kw Sunsynk inverter + 5kwh Sunsynk combo installed at 2 properties. One of these is an area where the community is trying to limit the current "spike" once the power comes back on after loadshedding. We set this system to charge at only 1300w, but I potentially want to decrease it even further. Is it possible to go lower? Any dangers in making it charge even slower (I typically use about 40% in a loadshedding session, and I realize it will obviously take longer to charge). What is a safe minimum wattage to charge at?
Also adjust your inverter Grid Reconnect Time to wait a bit when the grid comes back, better for the grid and better for the inverter / home. It defaults to 60s, can be pushed right up to 1399s (23 m). Mine is set to 600s
 
What's the verdict on max charge amps for a Sunsynk/Hubble combo?

The installer has mine on 50A. I noticed I lost some PV yesterday because the batteries were charging at about 2300w, the house was only taking 400w, so that left over 1000w of PV unused in bright sunshine.

I know the Hubbles can handle 100A, but should I up my charge rate or rather keep it at 50 to baby the Hubbles?
 
What's the verdict on max charge amps for a Sunsynk/Hubble combo?

The installer has mine on 50A. I noticed I lost some PV yesterday because the batteries were charging at about 2300w, the house was only taking 400w, so that left over 1000w of PV unused in bright sunshine.

I know the Hubbles can handle 100A, but should I up my charge rate or rather keep it at 50 to baby the Hubbles?
Interested to see the answer to this...

Slower charging is better for your batteries (see posts above as well). But as said above, it's about balancing to ensure you have charged enough to get through the next bout of load shedding.

We really are like mad scientists here - trying to find this balance.

Just imagine how easy life would be with these systems if all we were contenting with was night-time load and the odd day of cloud cover!
 
What's the verdict on max charge amps for a Sunsynk/Hubble combo?

The installer has mine on 50A. I noticed I lost some PV yesterday because the batteries were charging at about 2300w, the house was only taking 400w, so that left over 1000w of PV unused in bright sunshine.

I know the Hubbles can handle 100A, but should I up my charge rate or rather keep it at 50 to baby the Hubbles?
They can handle 100A each, but I charge my 3 at 100A, so 33A each.
 
What's the verdict on max charge amps for a Sunsynk/Hubble combo?

The installer has mine on 50A. I noticed I lost some PV yesterday because the batteries were charging at about 2300w, the house was only taking 400w, so that left over 1000w of PV unused in bright sunshine.

I know the Hubbles can handle 100A, but should I up my charge rate or rather keep it at 50 to baby the Hubbles?
AM-2 (NMC) or AM-5 (LFE)?

I guess either way my philosophy is to use the things - you paid good money for them. If it was me I'd go at least 75A, if not 100A
 
Who is the importers for sunsynk/deye to purchase at the cheapest price?
 
AM-2 (NMC) or AM-5 (LFE)?

I guess either way my philosophy is to use the things - you paid good money for them. If it was me I'd go at least 75A, if not 100A
AM-2 revision 2's. 2 of them
 
AM-2 (NMC) or AM-5 (LFE)?

I guess either way my philosophy is to use the things - you paid good money for them. If it was me I'd go at least 75A, if not 100A
So by that, it means I am only charging my 2 at 25A each with the setting on 50A
 
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