Car won't start - Suggestions on possible problems?

Mystic Twilight

Mystic Twilight

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So I have a Ford Fiesta 2010 model (same model type that came out in 2007/8). More often than not when turning the ignition the car makes that starting noise but there is no ignition, just like your typical Hollywood cliche ignition problems in a horror movie. When I turn the key back and try again, I don't get the ignition noise but instead get a rapid repetitive low pitch clicking like noise and the needles on the instrument cluster move up and down very rapidly in millimeters. At this stage I have to either use jumper cables or push start the car to get it running. If I use any electronics(radio, headlights) before attempting to start the car the above scenario occurs except the car is guaranteed to not start, but there is no obvious indication that the battery is drained such as dimmer than usual headlights.

Obviously a mechanic would know what is wrong, but if someone can give me a few pointers then perhaps I can solve the issue myself. It sounds like the battery needs replacing but the lack of dim high beams or a flat battery makes me think otherwise.

Advice is much appreciated.
 
I had similar symptoms in my 2005 fiesta and it could be your battery, in my case it was dropping to 7V when cranking but would only occasionally fail to start.
 
The battery is probably shot. The headlights might work as they do not draw nearly the same current as the starter does.
 
Long answer...... a car battery consists of 6 cells of 12V each. They are connected in paralel to deliver the starting current to the starter motor.
It is common for a cell or 2 to die overnight.
The rest of the cells will still provide 12V and enough current to operate the radio and headlights, but will not be able to provide enough current for the starter motor.
You can have a battery test done at any battery, tyre centre. But it is almost sure that you need to replace the battery.
 
Last edited:
Battery or bad earth connections
 
Robocop said:
Long answer...... a car battery consists of 6 cells of 12V each. They are connected in paralel to deliver the starting current to the starter motor.
It is common for a cell or 2 to die overnight.
The rest of the cells will still provide 12V and enough current to operate the radio and headlights, but will not be able to provide enough current for the starter motor.
You can have a battery test done at any battery, tyre centre. But it is almost sure that you need to replace the battery.
Click to expand...

That's not correct.
A lead acid battery has six cells wired in series - not parallel.
Each cell produces 2.1 Volts making the total 12.6 Volts.
If a single cell dies or develops an internal short you lose up to 2.1 Volts.
 
biometrics said:
2010 model. Old battery.
Click to expand...

Paul_S said:
That's not correct.
A lead acid battery has six cells wired in series - not parallel.
Each cell produces 2.1 Volts making the total 12.6 Volts.
If a single cell dies or develops an internal short you lose up to 2.1 Volts.
Click to expand...

That is not correct. If they were connected in series, if one cell dies the whole circuit would be interrupted and there would be no current flow.
 
My apologies. I see that there are 2 different types of batteries available to car manufacturers. Series and parallel types.
 
Take your car to Battery Centre for a free battery check. They'll check up the battery and your alternator. I recommend getting a locally made battery like Exide, Willard or Raylite.
 
Fox1 said:
Take your car to Battery Centre for a free battery check. They'll check up the battery and your alternator. I recommend getting a locally made battery like Exide, Willard or Raylite.
Click to expand...

2 of those 3 brands are manufactured here in East London by First National Battery. I heard that instead of increasing prices the past 2 years they have gone for lower quality materials to keep costs down. I have opted to stop using those brands.

I found Probe batteries to be quite reliable though. They also come with charge indicators.
 
boxerulez said:
2 of those 3 brands are manufactured here in East London by First National Battery. I heard that instead of increasing prices the past 2 years they have gone for lower quality materials to keep costs down. I have opted to stop using those brands.

I found Probe batteries to be quite reliable though. They also come with charge indicators.
Click to expand...

I found SABAT to be the best since the past few decades but it's just not as easily available as before.

Who is selling Probe batteries?
 
Fox1 said:
I found SABAT to be the best since the past few decades but it's just not as easily available as before.

Who is selling Probe batteries?
Click to expand...

SABAT is the 3rd one made at the plant here in EL.

I get the probe batteries from Allmans Automotive... but I am seeing them in cars from JHB too so they must be nationwide.
 
Robocop said:
The battery is probably shot. The headlights might work as they do not draw nearly the same current as the starter does.
Click to expand...

If there is any noise it isn't the battery. It sounds like spark plugs or bogey cords
 
funkzar said:
If there is any noise it isn't the battery. It sounds like spark plugs or bogey cords
Click to expand...

The clicking is the solenoid kicking the bendix out but no power to swing the motor over. It is the battery definately. When your battery rests and you try again, It will swing one attempt and not start. Then it will revert back to clicking.
 
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