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Citi Golf Sound
- Thread starter Pooky
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Crackling usually = Torn speaker. Can you see a tear, even small tear would cause it.
Only way you could damage a speaker is by wiring it incorrectly or clipping.
Audio signals are sinusoidal, when a audio signal clips it becomes closer to square, this causes the speaker to overheat, overexert itself, etc. and permanently damages it.
You can hear when the speakers clip tho, it'll be loud but really harsh. Usually clipping occurs when either the speaker cannot handle all the power the amplifier is outputting, therefore the speaker is moving outward or inward further than it is supposed to, or the amplifier isn't powerful enough.
The + and - on a speaker does matter btw. depending on the speaker type. Co-Axle, 6x9 and split systems all matter. Only a single mid range speaker with wired directly to the voice coils would not be affected. The reason is all those aforementioned speakers use capacitors or inductors to either cut out the high-range audio signals or low range audio signals. Wiring it incorrect will result in those signals no longer being filtered out and in case of certain capacitors it'll cause the capacitor to pop.
It is significant because if you don't filter the low range on a tweeter for example the tweeter will be damaged very quickly, it isn't meant to play low range audio. Mid range speakers can usually handle the high-range but it'll sound crap and put a damper on how loud the speaker can go before it'll clip. 6x9's, Co-axle and split system all include a mid-range and tweeter and the filters to filter mid/low-range and high-range. Cheaper speakers would only include low range filtering for the tweeter.
Most likely the crackling is caused by a torn/damaged tweeter
Only way you could damage a speaker is by wiring it incorrectly or clipping.
Audio signals are sinusoidal, when a audio signal clips it becomes closer to square, this causes the speaker to overheat, overexert itself, etc. and permanently damages it.
You can hear when the speakers clip tho, it'll be loud but really harsh. Usually clipping occurs when either the speaker cannot handle all the power the amplifier is outputting, therefore the speaker is moving outward or inward further than it is supposed to, or the amplifier isn't powerful enough.
The + and - on a speaker does matter btw. depending on the speaker type. Co-Axle, 6x9 and split systems all matter. Only a single mid range speaker with wired directly to the voice coils would not be affected. The reason is all those aforementioned speakers use capacitors or inductors to either cut out the high-range audio signals or low range audio signals. Wiring it incorrect will result in those signals no longer being filtered out and in case of certain capacitors it'll cause the capacitor to pop.
It is significant because if you don't filter the low range on a tweeter for example the tweeter will be damaged very quickly, it isn't meant to play low range audio. Mid range speakers can usually handle the high-range but it'll sound crap and put a damper on how loud the speaker can go before it'll clip. 6x9's, Co-axle and split system all include a mid-range and tweeter and the filters to filter mid/low-range and high-range. Cheaper speakers would only include low range filtering for the tweeter.
Most likely the crackling is caused by a torn/damaged tweeter
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Could also be interference, is the crackling there even when the volume is low? Or only when it's loud?
Also are the speakers powered from the Head-unit or from a amplifier. By speakers I mean all of them 6x9's, mid's, co-axle's, whatever you put in.
Also are the speakers powered from the Head-unit or from a amplifier. By speakers I mean all of them 6x9's, mid's, co-axle's, whatever you put in.
I have two 6x9's and two coaxials both powered from the head unit. When it's very low it didn't do that crackling sound, but after it was turned up a bit it did, but it seems to have stopped now (hold thumbs)...
Well interference would still be present at low volume. Head-units don't put out much power so if you put the volume too loud it will start clipping. Clipping kinda sounds like paper being crumpled. You should try avoid it.
I've got a damaged speaker in my car currently, it tore (haven't put sound in my car again, it crappy OEM speakers), you usually only notice it when with certain types of music. If you have "A Perfect Circle - The noose" play that, it's the last song I listened to that I could very clearly hear the speaker was properly f-ed. Or there was some stuff from Prodigy - Invaders Must Die, hmm can't remember which songs now. Next time it happens check if it only happens with some songs.
What HU you get btw?
I've got a damaged speaker in my car currently, it tore (haven't put sound in my car again, it crappy OEM speakers), you usually only notice it when with certain types of music. If you have "A Perfect Circle - The noose" play that, it's the last song I listened to that I could very clearly hear the speaker was properly f-ed. Or there was some stuff from Prodigy - Invaders Must Die, hmm can't remember which songs now. Next time it happens check if it only happens with some songs.
What HU you get btw?
Yes I can but I need more to go on, you need to provide the speakers RMS power, it'll say RMS (Root Mean Square) or average power handling or something like that. Peak power is of no consequence. Else you might end up buying an amp that puts out lots of power but it's overkill on your wallet and sound system.
It would also be helpful if you could quote from the package the impedance/ohm (Ω) ratings of the speakers, if you don't know how to find all this, just quote the speaker names and numbers like you did with the HU.
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It's this: http://www.rascohk.com/catalogue/starsound/subwoofer/SSW380015.htm
So is that 300W rms??? As far as I can google I seem to find references to 300W, and it doesn't say anywhere on the actual speaker.
So is that 300W rms??? As far as I can google I seem to find references to 300W, and it doesn't say anywhere on the actual speaker.
Yeah if that's best?
The 6x9's : 40W rms
The Coaxials: http://www.autostyle.co.za/product/17687/KenwoodKFCM1632A6260wspeakers/
Yeah, I generally find I get much more out of even weak speakers with amps VS. HU's.
Ok well your Sub-woofer is 4ohm impedance and your Co-Axle's are also 4ohm. Best case scenario your 6x9's are also 4ohm, worst case 2ohm.
Reason I say this is:
If both the 6x9's and Co-Axle's are 4ohm impedance you can wire that + the amp to a single amplifier. Else you are stuck leaving either the 6x9's or the Co-axle's on the HU or else risk the amp overheating (which is a pain in the ass because it'll constantly cut out which is super annoying imho).
If your 6x9's are 4ohm impedance, this should be enough: http://www.autostyle.co.za/product/15680/AudiobankPro1600w4champ/
Else if you keep either the 6x9's or Co-Axle's on the HU you can go for: http://www.autostyle.co.za/product/15681/AudiobankPro1200w4champ/
Their prices are pretty high, you are in Durban so I'm sure you can get it for cheaper, there is a Indian fellow close to here I know that gets the stuff from Durban and even his prices are generally 15%-20% lower than Autostyle (no they didn't fall off of a truck
).Feel free to exchange brands or whatever but just keep the RMS levels in that range.
If you find out the impedance of the 6x9's I can tell you how to wire the amp, even draw a little diagram and everything...
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The JVC's are 4ohms yeah! : https://www.dpcauto.com/products/JV...eaker-with-290-Watts-Max.-Power-Handling.html
So does that mean the first amp will be a good choice? Nothing cheaper than that?
Also a question: my HU says it has 52W x4 so isn't that more than that amp? I'm sure it isn't but ya...
So does that mean the first amp will be a good choice? Nothing cheaper than that?
Also a question: my HU says it has 52W x4 so isn't that more than that amp? I'm sure it isn't but ya...
Well you can go for the second amp also but if the ratings on your speakers are true it'll be might be a bit underpowered. I err'd on the side of caution, but if you are tight on money go for the 2nd.
Hmm, only thing I can find cheaper than those on Autostyle pricelist is this: http://www.autostyle.co.za/product/1099/Blaster1600w4ch/
But like I said Autostyle is expensive, go to flea markets, it's cheaper there + you can negotiate . I've used the Audiobank amps before and never had trouble, never used Blaster before tho.
Your HU's peak power output is: 52w x 4, once again not RMS, that's probably around 10w RMS
I'll make a quick diagram in paint and post it for you.
Hmm, only thing I can find cheaper than those on Autostyle pricelist is this: http://www.autostyle.co.za/product/1099/Blaster1600w4ch/
But like I said Autostyle is expensive, go to flea markets, it's cheaper there + you can negotiate
. I've used the Audiobank amps before and never had trouble, never used Blaster before tho.Your HU's peak power output is: 52w x 4, once again not RMS, that's probably around 10w RMS
I'll make a quick diagram in paint and post it for you.
So will that make my system sound good?
Err, LOL, well I have no idea, I've only ever done setups that used split-systems, and I haven't ever bought the brands you bought. So why don't you let us know when you are done.
Not really, I mean I prefer split-systems personally but I have absolutely no idea how your sound system will perform because it's impossible to say unless you have built one exactly like yours before. It's kinda like asking someone how a song sounds (based on what they read, IE. lyrics or cords, notes, etc.) before they have ever heard it.
I've never used those components before so I don't know how they perform.
Anyway here is the diagram: http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/7533/simplediagramk.jpg
That should give you the best results. Not included with the amp is the wire you need to run from the battery to your amp, the thing remote wire that runs from your head-unit to your amp, the 2xRCA cables that run from your head-unit to your amp and finally the fuse that goes between the wire that runs from your amp to your battery.
Basically the ground wire should have a crimp on the end that attaches to your cars chassis. And it should attach to the chassis somewhere that's a main panel on the car. The best method really is you take some 1000grit sanding paper, sand a tiny area that's one of the main panels on the car (BELOW some carpeting or something that is out of sight!!) until it's completely bare metal and nice and smooth, then you drill a small hole, making sure you aren't drilling into your fuel tank, exhaust or whatever. Put a bolt & nut or something through it to keep the wire in place, make it so it sits flush (IE. tightly against the bare metal), then after just coat it up with silicone from inside and outside to prevent corrosion from moisture or moisture getting in.
Wire gauge should be 6 gauge or less for both power wire and ground wire. 28gauge for the remote turn on is enough.
I've never used those components before so I don't know how they perform.
Anyway here is the diagram: http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/7533/simplediagramk.jpg
That should give you the best results. Not included with the amp is the wire you need to run from the battery to your amp, the thing remote wire that runs from your head-unit to your amp, the 2xRCA cables that run from your head-unit to your amp and finally the fuse that goes between the wire that runs from your amp to your battery.
Basically the ground wire should have a crimp on the end that attaches to your cars chassis. And it should attach to the chassis somewhere that's a main panel on the car. The best method really is you take some 1000grit sanding paper, sand a tiny area that's one of the main panels on the car (BELOW some carpeting or something that is out of sight!!) until it's completely bare metal and nice and smooth, then you drill a small hole, making sure you aren't drilling into your fuel tank, exhaust or whatever. Put a bolt & nut or something through it to keep the wire in place, make it so it sits flush (IE. tightly against the bare metal), then after just coat it up with silicone from inside and outside to prevent corrosion from moisture or moisture getting in.
Wire gauge should be 6 gauge or less for both power wire and ground wire. 28gauge for the remote turn on is enough.
Np
, I'm procrastinating exam studies, *sigh* should probably start on that Sure you can but generally those setups are more expensive, only consider it when you feel that you want louder. Then come ask here first
I know a few not so expensive setup's that'll have you standing at robots laughing at the guy in his shiny new Polo/M3/etc. trying so hard to drown out your sound when it's at low Always puts a smile on my face when I turn it up and his windows/mirrors/etc. starts rattling to the sound (and his face at that point ) A bit common I know but fun every now and then.