Clutch Pedal slipped

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richjdavies

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Was driving my 2012 Audi Q3 2.0tdi this morning and the clutch Pedal just went to the floor and didn't come up?

Thought uh oh... Clutch gone...

But after pushing the car to a safe place, pulled the pedal back up and pumped it a few times and it seemed to work. Managed to drive the 5 mins home without further issue.

It needs a service soon anyway, so booking it in and will get them to check for leaks / cables etc... but anyone know if I should drive it there or is this likely a big issue and I should be super cautious?
 
Yes had the same on our VW, pull it back after its stuck and then its fine for a week or two and happens again. Went on for a few months then got stuck and could not pull it back again. Changed master and slave and all good now. That parts are very expensive at dealers and you could do it privately with pirate parts for 1/4 of the price.
 
Sinbad said:
Most likely the seals in the clutch master or slave cylinder have failed.

Driveable in a pinch but not particularly safe - I wouldn't drive it myself.
Click to expand...
This, same thing happened to my 2010 A3 a couple of years back. I couldn't drive mine when it happened.
 
It’s normally the slave that gives up because it’s in the engine bay and subject to higher heats.
Just hope that the location of the slave is easily accessible and doesn't require the gearbox to be removed as it is in some vehicles.
 
Will leave it up to KC motors (a mybb recommendation) to see what they can do on Wednesday.
Defo would not take to dealership. They would charge R5k to look at it!

Guess it won't be the end of the world if I break down in Kenilworth on the way!

Thanks for the advice everyone.
 
richjdavies said:
Will leave it up to KC motors (a mybb recommendation) to see what they can do on Wednesday.
Defo would not take to dealership. They would charge R5k to look at it!

Guess it won't be the end of the world if I break down in Kenilworth on the way!

Thanks for the advice everyone.
Click to expand...
Only problem with independent garages is you have to use pirate parts. I took mine to independent and the quote for replacing master and slave with genuine parts was over 13k. With close to 5k for each part. then phoned VW for cost of that parts and they were closer to 3-3.5k each. The place then said they markup 30% on parts. I explained to the guy that in that case I could do it cheaper at the Dealership and left. Phoned two other independents and they all markup 20-30% on parts.
So if you want genuine parts go to dealership, otherwise pirate parts at independent.
 
Jean Claude Vaaldamme said:
Only problem with independent garages is you have to use pirate parts. I took mine to independent and the quote for replacing master and slave with genuine parts was over 13k. With close to 5k for each part. then phoned VW for cost of that parts and they were closer to 3-3.5k each. The place then said they markup 30% on parts. I explained to the guy that in that case I could do it cheaper at the Dealership and left. Phoned two other independents and they all markup 20-30% on parts.
So if you want genuine parts go to dealership, otherwise pirate parts at independent.
Click to expand...
Not always true. Some indies use OEM parts.
Also, some "pirate" parts are the same as OEM parts but without the branding, so not necessarily inferior.
 
airborne said:
It’s normally the slave that gives up because it’s in the engine bay and subject to higher heats.
Just hope that the location of the slave is easily accessible and doesn't require the gearbox to be removed as it is in some vehicles.
Click to expand...
It is an Audi... That slave is mated to one of the pistons if the designers got their way. :ROFL:
 
Sinbad said:
Not always true. Some indies use OEM parts.
Also, some "pirate" parts are the same as OEM parts but without the branding, so not necessarily inferior.
Click to expand...
Thats what I said, they will use the genuine part but they put 30% markup on that part, so its cheaper to just go directly to the dealership.
 
Sinbad said:
Most likely the seals in the clutch master or slave cylinder have failed.

Driveable in a pinch but not particularly safe - I wouldn't drive it myself.
Click to expand...
Probably this.

In my (limited) experience, do both slave and master when you get it fixed.

I once spent 6k to get the slave cylinder sorted, less than 2 weeks later the master cylinder went. That was the last straw and I got rid of the car. Would have been cheaper to do both at the same time.
 
richjdavies said:
Was driving my 2012 Audi Q3 2.0tdi this morning and the clutch Pedal just went to the floor and didn't come up?

Thought uh oh... Clutch gone...

But after pushing the car to a safe place, pulled the pedal back up and pumped it a few times and it seemed to work. Managed to drive the 5 mins home without further issue.

It needs a service soon anyway, so booking it in and will get them to check for leaks / cables etc... but anyone know if I should drive it there or is this likely a big issue and I should be super cautious?
Click to expand...
When last did you change the fluid?
 
richjdavies said:
Will leave it up to KC motors (a mybb recommendation) to see what they can do on Wednesday.
Defo would not take to dealership. They would charge R5k to look at it!

Guess it won't be the end of the world if I break down in Kenilworth on the way!

Thanks for the advice everyone.
Click to expand...
Pity you a bit far, but for anyone in the Montague Gardens area, West Coast Brake & Clutch for clutch related issues.
 
I had this exact issue recently on my Micra. First, replaced the master cylinder only, as the concentric slave cylinder is inside the gearbox, and issue was sorted for a week. Then it completely failed, dumping brake fluid all over the Total N14 parking. Flat bed home, big mess all around.

Mechanic took apart half my car to open up the gearbox, the concentric bearing is shot, so replace the slave cylinder, replace clutch while everything is open, replace a bunch of worn seals. But now everything seems to be fine.

Currently sitting on 262k km's, and this is the first major issue I've had, so probably quite lucky in that regard.
 
Jean Claude Vaaldamme said:
Thats what I said, they will use the genuine part but they put 30% markup on that part, so its cheaper to just go directly to the dealership.
Click to expand...

Take my old B6 Audi A4 Avant as an example of what @Sinbad is describing...

Luk clutch kit, Luk flywheel, thrust sleeve, bolts, etc. from Goldwagen was R9,833.
Luk clutch kit, Luk flywheel, thrust sleeve, bolts, etc. from a VW dealership was R17,736.

It is the same Luk parts, well the clutch, flywheel, etc, etc., with the same Luk part numbers, the Goldwagen supplied just didn't come in a VW branded box.
 
notayoba said:
Probably this.

In my (limited) experience, do both slave and master when you get it fixed.

I once spent 6k to get the slave cylinder sorted, less than 2 weeks later the master cylinder went. That was the last straw and I got rid of the car. Would have been cheaper to do both at the same time.
Click to expand...
They don't typically go at the same time like that, the master is normally a lot more expensive and virtually a job on it’s own to replace so unless it's showing signs of leaking I don't see much value in doing them both at the same time unless the slave can only be bled with the gearbox out or something similar.
 
Yoh... you guys weren't kidding.

Just been quoted 23k with non-dealership parts!

Clutch kit + Flywheel + Slave + new oil etc. + 2 days labour
6000+6500+2000+800+7600 = 23,000


Will check with these clutch guys in Milnerton just to see.

Sounds like it will keep going a little bit more though? Right??
 
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