Do I really need an SLR camera?

And once you outgrow P&S (I did long ago) you can get a nice bridge camera like the Canon S/Sx range or even (if you are cheap like me) a Z-range Kodak.

Roux, we're not cheap like you :D

Sorry, couldn't resist :o But too be serious, I know far too many people whos Kodak cameras (last two years) failed just outside the warranty period. There seems to be a QC issue there.

But I'm not disagreeing with you. I still use my CyberShot T100, despite owning a Powershot G9 and numerous (D)SLR bodies. Horses for courses...
 
As a beginner, I would think the D3000 + VR kit lens is a good deal. I see it does have the intuitive menu for beginners which is nice. As well as a better sensor than the D40/D60, and a better AF system. D40 is limited to 3 points, one of it's biggest downfalls for me.
Three? :eek:

And what's with Nikon omitting AEB from their entry level bodies? :confused:
But I'm not disagreeing with you. I still use my CyberShot T100, despite owning a Powershot G9 and numerous (D)SLR bodies. Horses for courses...
Pity bridge cameras are generally bulky.
 
So there's been great feedback regarding what SLR camera is good to buy, so far a lot of canon supporters, I only see a few Nikon supporters coming out now.

So to the Nikon supporters - What SLR Nikon do you suggest (D5000? any good)

Nikon have recently been making cameras that are not 100% compatible with their older auto focus lenses. These lenses require a manual coupling with a focussing motor in the body to auto focus. The motor doesn't appear in the new low end bodies - apparently to reduce the cost (but somebody forgot to tell those fatcat basterds at Nikon SA that R7k is not "low cost" for a DSLR).

So, if you buy one of these low end bodies you are cutting out a lot of compatibility with the old gems in the Nikon lens line up. There are a LOT of really good old Nikon lenses that can be had fairly cheaply, so my recommendation would be that if you want to really get into the whole photography thing you should look at the D90 if you're buying new. If you're buying used you can get great bargains by looking for D50, D80 and D70/D70s bodies (these all have the required manual coupling).

If you are just fooling around and not really the kind of person who would ever take more than the odd snapshot then the D3000/5000/40/40x/60 would be OK for you.
 
+1 for the most part.

Of course D3000/5000/40/40x/60 can also be for more than just the "odd snapshot". ;)
 
(...)
So, if you buy one of these low end bodies you are cutting out a lot of compatibility with the old gems in the Nikon lens line up. There are a LOT of really good old Nikon lenses that can be had fairly cheaply, so my recommendation would be that if you want to really get into the whole photography thing you should look at the D90 if you're buying new. If you're buying used you can get great bargains by looking for D50, D80 and D70/D70s bodies (these all have the required manual coupling).

If you are just fooling around and not really the kind of person who would ever take more than the odd snapshot then the D3000/5000/40/40x/60 would be OK for you.
Or if you don't mind using Manual Focus :)
 
Three? :eek:

And what's with Nikon omitting AEB from their entry level bodies? :confused:
I find both manufacturers leave odd things off their cameras. Sometimes even their expensive models.

The D5000 definitely has bracketing. Seems silly not to have it on the D3000.

Why don't low-end cameras typically have depth of field preview or mirror lock-up?

Nikon have recently been making cameras that are not 100% compatible with their older auto focus lenses. These lenses require a manual coupling with a focussing motor in the body to auto focus. The motor doesn't appear in the new low end bodies - apparently to reduce the cost (but somebody forgot to tell those fatcat basterds at Nikon SA that R7k is not "low cost" for a DSLR).

So, if you buy one of these low end bodies you are cutting out a lot of compatibility with the old gems in the Nikon lens line up. There are a LOT of really good old Nikon lenses that can be had fairly cheaply, so my recommendation would be that if you want to really get into the whole photography thing you should look at the D90 if you're buying new. If you're buying used you can get great bargains by looking for D50, D80 and D70/D70s bodies (these all have the required manual coupling).
Yes, they have older, good, lenses that will only be manual on these cameras, but how much does that matter? When I first read about this those complaining made it sound like this left you with almost no lens options when in reality Nikon has a wide range of lenses that contain an autofocus motor and that range will doubtless continue to expand.

The extra thousands of Rands spent on a D90 could instead be put towards buying a lens or a flash. The next question is how good is the motor in the D90 and is autofocus with these older lenses fast? Or should the buyer really be looking at a more expensive Nikon with a better motor? What about features other than autofocus that won't work on the D90 et al either?

I would say don't spend the extra on a D90 unless you're fairly sure you're going to be buying those older lenses in the near future. Otherwise you may find by the time you decide to use that benefit there's a much better model out.

If you are just fooling around and not really the kind of person who would ever take more than the odd snapshot then the D3000/5000/40/40x/60 would be OK for you.
So is everyone not using enthusiast or higher level SLRs the kind of person who only ever takes the odd snapshot?

Mutually exclusive with the "muk and druk" brigade! :D
How many of such people are going to be tracking down used lenses then?

Hmmm, good advice thanks. I'm in the process of looking to buy one, still have a few months before I actually make the plunge so I'm doing a bit of extensive homework.

So far I am convinced on the Canon 450d, which seems to be solid. My other option is the Nikon D5000?
It's a trade-off. I don't think either camera is overall better. I think the 450D and D5000 take similar quality pictures (and the same for the 500D). You have to go hold the cameras and also check through the feature lists to see if there is something only one has that you want. Are you happy with a lower viewfinder magnification in exchange for an interval timer? And so on. It's also worth looking at the range of lenses (it's possible only one of the two manufacturers has a particular lens that is exactly what you'd want).

This kind of trade-off does not stop with consumer cameras. Users of the Nikon D300s have features they love that just don't exist on the similarly priced Canon 7D, and vice-versa; and you can find heated threads where the two groups of owners argue over the usefulness of those features. The D300s has a sensible number of pixels while the 7D's sensor has too many. On the other hand with the 7D you get a pretty cool, and a very useful, when operated within its limitations, video mode. The D300s gets the same somewhat anaemic video mode you can find on the D5000 and D90. But then the D5000 at least has 24p video where the 500D has two weird modes 20p and 30p. But that's only important to filmmakers (anyone planning to use it as a camcorder will undoubtedly moan about 24p looking choppy).
 
I find both manufacturers leave odd things off their cameras. Sometimes even their expensive models.

The D5000 definitely has bracketing. Seems silly not to have it on the D3000.

Why don't low-end cameras typically have depth of field preview or mirror lock-up?
The Canons do.
 
Considering buying the D3000 on special @ Makro. Any reason I shouldn't?
 
Considering buying the D3000 on special @ Makro. Any reason I shouldn't?

Only if you're a real stickler. It's a great camera for the entry-level user. Apparently the main selling point is the Guide mode, which enthusiasts will quickly outgrow. Also consider the Canon 1000D, which has LiveView and slightly better image quality, albeit with a slightly less noob-friendly interface. Makro has the 2-lens kit for 7599
 
Only if you're a real stickler. It's a great camera for the entry-level user. Apparently the main selling point is the Guide mode, which enthusiasts will quickly outgrow. Also consider the Canon 1000D, which has LiveView and slightly better image quality, albeit with a slightly less noob-friendly interface. Makro has the 2-lens kit for 7599

Thanks flarkit.

I am what you would call a noob. Only recently started to take an interest in photography. My little Sony point and shoot seems to only give me decent pics when it feels like it.

I would like to learn how to take decent quality pics.
 
Considering buying the D3000 on special @ Makro. Any reason I shouldn't?
It doesnt have AEB which is useful if you want a quick and easy way to do HDR. Apparently it also doesnt have mirror-lockup (useful for long exposure shots) or a depth of field preview.
 
It doesnt have AEB which is useful if you want a quick and easy way to do HDR. Apparently it also doesnt have mirror-lockup (useful for long exposure shots) or a depth of field preview.

No offence bwana but you speaking Chinese to me :D
 
No offence bwana but you speaking Chinese to me :D
AEB - auto exposure bracketing - it takes one correctly exposed shot with at least one over exposed and one under exposed shot.

High Dynamic Range (HDR) can use those bracketed shots to generate an image with higher dynamic range than would normally be possible.

Depth of field is the area of an image that is in focus. A f/1.8 50mm wide open will give you a very shallow depth of field while the same lens stopped down (closed) to f/11 will greatly increase the DOF. The DOF button lets you preview this.

I'm sure someone else will go into greater detail but that's it in a nut shell. :)
 
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AEB - auto exposure bracketing - it takes one correctly exposed shot with at least one over exposed and one under exposed shot.

High Dynamic Range (HDR) can use those bracketed shots to generate an image with higher dynamic range than would normally be possible.

Depth of field is the area of an image that is in focus. A f/1.8
50mm wide open will give you a very shallow depth of field while the same lens stopped down (closed) to f/11 will greatly increase the DOF. The DOF button lets you preview this.

I'm sure someone else will go into greater detail but that's it in a nut shell. :)

Thanks for the explanation.

Are those features important in a DSLR or are they more nice to haves?
 
Thanks for the explanation.

Are those features important in a DSLR or are they more nice to haves?
AEB is really useful outside of HDR especially when there is tricky lighting involved. Yes, you can adjust manually but it's easier and a lot quicker for the camera to do it.

I dont often use mirror lockup because I'm not into astrophotography.

The DOF button can be useful . . . if you remember to use it :o
 
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