ECU damage, what can cause it?

I have a hunch. Do you have a spare key? try starting it with the spare key.

try with spare key.
Check crank position sensor
check that it does not have an after market immobilizer.
 
qscwbt said:
I have a hunch. Do you have a spare key? try starting it with the spare key.

try with spare key.
Check crank position sensor
check that it does not have an after market immobilizer.
Click to expand...
Crank position sensor checked, by few electrical specialist.

Spare key non existent, in actual fact have seperate key blade hidden in case battery dies and I can't get in as do have c/l

But even when I had the original keys and ecu, didn't make any difference, didn't start even then.

Cranks perfectly, but won't start.

Even the boffins at Kia can't diagnose the problem,
 
Franky03 said:
I had a damaged ECU on my car and it was as a result of a coolant leak
Click to expand...
And where on the car was the ECU located to be affected by a coolant leak? It is usually located at a higher point in the engine bay or inside the car away from coolant pipes.
 
No advice on getting it fixed, but when it’s running again, trade the bloody thing in for something else. If you love it so much, get another one of the same model. Just get rid of that particular one.
 
Maybe replace ecu with an aftermarket type seems diktator not bad , can maybe piggyback it
 
eg2505 said:
But even when I had the original keys and ecu, didn't make any difference, didn't start even then.
Click to expand...

I'd be really interested in how this transpired over the same period as having the ECU problems? ;)

Just for a moment, lets stop focussing on the ECU, take a step back.
Logically, you've replaced the ECU multiple times so let's take it out of the equation.

You're using a propellant to help start the motor when it cranks, which indicates an air flow problem, fuel flow problem.... maybe your spark plugs aren't behaving properly?
OR the propellant is overcoming some kind of internal resistance, which I doubt because the engine is turning over under the start motor, but worth keeping in the back of your mind.

It could be your ECU is fsckign itself up trying to compensate for the faulty component you're not finding?

I'm no car mechanic but in troubleshooting, if you keep fixing the "problem" and it keeps coming back, then your problem is actually a symptom of the actual problem and you need to explore further afield for the root issue.
 
thechamp said:
And where on the car was the ECU located to be affected by a coolant leak? It is usually located at a higher point in the engine bay or inside the car away from coolant pipes.
Click to expand...
'Twas probably a Ford... famous for the heater core leak
 
DMNknight said:
I'd be really interested in how this transpired over the same period as having the ECU problems? ;)

Just for a moment, lets stop focussing on the ECU, take a step back.
Logically, you've replaced the ECU multiple times so let's take it out of the equation.

You're using a propellant to help start the motor when it cranks, which indicates an air flow problem, fuel flow problem.... maybe your spark plugs aren't behaving properly?
OR the propellant is overcoming some kind of internal resistance, which I doubt because the engine is turning over under the start motor, but worth keeping in the back of your mind.

It could be your ECU is fsckign itself up trying to compensate for the faulty component you're not finding?

I'm no car mechanic but in troubleshooting, if you keep fixing the "problem" and it keeps coming back, then your problem is actually a symptom of the actual problem and you need to explore further afield for the root issue.
Click to expand...

exactly ... logic says its not the ecu but some type of electrical shorting that is blowing up the ecu.
 
ubercal said:
exactly ... logic says its not the ecu but some type of electrical shorting that is blowing up the ecu.
Click to expand...

I'm not so sure. The engine turns over and when a propellant is introduced it starts. That sounds like the engine is starving for something
 
DMNknight said:
I'd be really interested in how this transpired over the same period as having the ECU problems? ;)

Just for a moment, lets stop focussing on the ECU, take a step back.
Logically, you've replaced the ECU multiple times so let's take it out of the equation.

You're using a propellant to help start the motor when it cranks, which indicates an air flow problem, fuel flow problem.... maybe your spark plugs aren't behaving properly?
OR the propellant is overcoming some kind of internal resistance, which I doubt because the engine is turning over under the start motor, but worth keeping in the back of your mind.

It could be your ECU is fsckign itself up trying to compensate for the faulty component you're not finding?

I'm no car mechanic but in troubleshooting, if you keep fixing the "problem" and it keeps coming back, then your problem is actually a symptom of the actual problem and you need to explore further afield for the root issue.
Click to expand...

well I do know a few things , or I have deduced a few of them,
exhaust was changed, and its missing the one sensor, other sensor is showing a trouble code for the heater element, needs replacing,

car is driving perfectly though, even though the codes cant get cleared.
had those for a long time, and never affected anything. (no check engine light comes on)

other thing is the air filter box, its not fastened correctly, as its missing the plate where it stands
so its connected, but laying loose in the engine bay, not fastened down to a plate, it is sealed so no air leaks into the throttle body, and it worked up till now.

main reason the issue could be is wiring is made out of spaghetti and is not very durable and there is a short somewhere deep inside the injector harness
(even though everything is covered ) and all the wiring is original,

so honestly , don't know whats causing this, nobody can tell me what component needs to be changed, and nobody can fix it accurately.

going to fix it up, and find the first sucker to suffer with this car, and move on with my life.
 
eg2505 said:
main reason the issue could be is wiring is made out of spaghetti and is not very durable and there is a short somewhere deep inside the injector harness
(even though everything is covered ) and all the wiring is original,
Click to expand...

I had something similar, where a wire hard burned/carbonised along its length drawing the spark away/out of the wire and into the nearest conductive surface.
It was such a small burn too, like someone had traced a thin hot needle along the length of the wire.

Once you find the issue, you will probably find everything else clears up ;):giggle:
 
Had recently a similar event of car cranking but not starting. ended up being the transponder in the key and the ignition not communicating. Just check the immobilizer. it might make it look like its the ecu report.

have you ever replaced fuel injectors?
 
DMNknight said:
I had something similar, where a wire hard burned/carbonised along its length drawing the spark away/out of the wire and into the nearest conductive surface.
It was such a small burn too, like someone had traced a thin hot needle along the length of the wire.

Once you find the issue, you will probably find everything else clears up ;):giggle:
Click to expand...

so why cant all these auto electricians used by KIA themselves uncover this?
and all the other guys trying unsuccessfully to resolve this issue, cant any of them uncover this?

anyway, how would one uncover this? is there some way an average person could discover the burned/ shorted wire?
 
qscwbt said:
Had recently a similar event of car cranking but not starting. ended up being the transponder in the key and the ignition not communicating. Just check the immobilizer. it might make it look like its the ecu report.

have you ever replaced fuel injectors?
Click to expand...

never replaced Fuel injectors, do those get replaced? usually at what mileage?
and we tried to run around with their transponder and immobilizer, nothing helped, we even tried changing the ignition barrel coil, from the previous times.

its quite annoying this little story, and quite demoralizing
 
eg2505 said:
so why cant all these auto electricians used by KIA themselves uncover this?
and all the other guys trying unsuccessfully to resolve this issue, cant any of them uncover this?

anyway, how would one uncover this? is there some way an average person could discover the burned/ shorted wire?
Click to expand...

There comes a point where you stop troubleshooting in your head, because going further means a lot more trouble than you're willing to put in.
Sounds like your experts reached that point and simply shrugged.

The only choice right now, is to try and split the problem up.
Is it fuel? (e.g. if you add that bottle of octane performance liquid to your fuel, does it make a difference?)
Is it air intake? (maybe rig up a system like an intercooler)
Is it the injectors? (there should be a flow rate test somewhere)
Is it the spark plugs? (Test voltages? Check for spark etc)

Once you find something not working to scratch, follow that path till everything is working.
Every piece is connected to the other. With a manual, some elbow grease and logic i'm sure you can work it out eventually.
 
Ok so it looks like the problem might be a part that has an effect on the ecu.eg the maf sensor or 02 sensor might be cock eyed , or you have an air leak.This would cause the car to run lean and det , or maybe go into limp mode.
 
DMNknight said:
There comes a point where you stop troubleshooting in your head, because going further means a lot more trouble than you're willing to put in.
Sounds like your experts reached that point and simply shrugged.

The only choice right now, is to try and split the problem up.
Is it fuel? (e.g. if you add that bottle of octane performance liquid to your fuel, does it make a difference?)
Is it air intake? (maybe rig up a system like an intercooler)
Is it the injectors? (there should be a flow rate test somewhere)
Is it the spark plugs? (Test voltages? Check for spark etc)

Once you find something not working to scratch, follow that path till everything is working.
Every piece is connected to the other. With a manual, some elbow grease and logic i'm sure you can work it out eventually.
Click to expand...

solid plan, I must admit, ill check to see what they come up with, but after leaving the car at multiple mechanics, who ALL cant solve the problem,
or went in 10 different circles trying to fix the issue, and getting precisely nowhere

I have determined 1, Im going to trade/sell the car ASAP, and 2 never buy another car on auction, to save a buck..
 
good point, perhaps the sensors are causing the ECU to behave abnormally.
 
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