Sorry for my Ignorance but, a lense hood does not protect your coating.
Put your lens hood on and make the lens stand on the hood. How far is the front element from the surface that it's standing on? On my 24-105, it's a good 2 inches. And unless you use lens hoods made of metal, the hood's elastic properties will absorb more shock if you drop it than a filter ever will.
but isnt the primary purpose of a lense hood to combat flare?
Yes but a welcome side effect is that it effectively acts as a bumper for your lens (except for ultra wides, which tend to have very short lens hoods).
I use Hoya's single coated G-UV (cheapest one I think) filter on my camera. I payed R130 for it and have not found any problems.
I had a Hoya Pro UV for my 24-105L. Granted, this only happened once, but shooting at one of my best mate's wedding (outdoors) I had horrible flaring (I stupidly didn't take the hood). Removing the filter reduced the flaring considerably. Fortunately I wasn't the official 'tog for the wedding, I just took my camera along to get some pictures of my own.
I'm not saying UV will necessarily give you flares, but in the right conditions (or the wrong conditions, depending on your view), even a good one can make things bad.
I guess if the 24-105L was designed in such a way that one could easily remove the filter without removing the hood, it wouldn't have bothered me, but I tend to need my CP more than the UV, and the CP, being thicker, is actually easier to screw on with my finger tips without removing the hood. Although using it is a different matter
Pentax has the right idea there. The hood has a little door that opens at the bottom that allows you to easily rotate the CP with the hood on.