wingnut771
Honorary Master
It doesn’t, but you need to enter a number and that is the resting voltage value.Float? I thought lithium doesn’t float
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It doesn’t, but you need to enter a number and that is the resting voltage value.Float? I thought lithium doesn’t float
User defined needs a numberFloat? I thought lithium doesn’t float
It sounded specific when he told cavedog that’s why I was wonderingUser defined needs a number.
I installed two on my geysers. The one lasted about a year and the other one is two and a bit years old now.Anyone installed the CBI Astute Smart Controller ASC WiFi Enabled
Anyone know what the below means?
- Service life: 20 000 operations at full load
Guess you dont need to be a electrician to install it?I installed two on my geysers. The one lasted about a year and the other one is two and a bit years old now.
I replaced the broken one with a sonoff POWR320D.
That is the specs of the relay. When you switch it under load there is some arcing and wear on the relay that eventually wears it out.
Which sounds like a meaningless stat if yours failed in a year, switching off under load once a day is 54 years.I installed two on my geysers. The one lasted about a year and the other one is two and a bit years old now.
I replaced the broken one with a sonoff POWR320D.
That is the specs of the relay. When you switch it under load there is some arcing and wear on the relay that eventually wears it out.
Guess you dont need to be a electrician to install it?
Any reason you went for the sonoff POWR320D over another CBI Astute?
Which sounds like a meaningless stat if yours failed in a year, switching off under load once a day is 54 years.
That isn't an isolator. You keep the existing isolator and add the switch before the isolator.Technically you should be at least a wireman I believe as you will be replacing the isolator.
I flash most of my devices with Tasmota and the sonoff is just better supported for that. I wouldn't say one is better than the other.
Do you need both devices isolator as well or just the DB board WiFi piece?That isn't an isolator. You keep the existing isolator and add the switch before the isolator.
Makes sense to keep isolator as that is last line of defence if this device fails and there is a short.Do you need both devices isolator as well or just the DB board WiFi piece?
Sure any geyser has that already as I am sure there is one in my roofMakes sense to keep isolator as that is last line of defence if this device fails and there is a short.
Sorry I meant breaker in DB board that trips if overload or short.Sure any geyser has that already as I am sure there is one in my roof
I think the regularions dictates that a isolator has to be in place by the geyserDo you need both devices isolator as well or just the DB board WiFi piece?
That isn't an isolator. You keep the existing isolator and add the switch before the isolator.
Does it not need to break both conductors? I am not sure all Sonoff's do that. I know the 320D manual states that it still needs a isolator with high current devices.The Sonoff could be fitted in place of the isolator, hence the comment I suspect.
Doesn’t have to be in the DB board like the Astute and bridged to the circuit breaker.
Yeah, regulations require isolator near device for when it needs to be worked on it’s easy to turn off. I think it’s quite a new regulation too because my house doesn’t have one. Breaker in the db protects cabling from melting in overload or shorting situations afaik.The Sonoff could be fitted in place of the isolator, hence the comment I suspect.
Doesn’t have to be in the DB board like the Astute and bridged to the circuit breaker.