Home Automation - Smartkit

The energiser uses like 15 watts. Waste of a pow Imho
 
The energiser uses like 15 watts. Waste of a pow Imho

Also think so - that's why I'll first try find something else with similiar functionality. Although I do have a POW that's been sitting in the cupboard for months.
 
That will turn it on and off, but how you'll figure out the state I have no clue. Easiest way is probably just to make sure that one of those flashers is visible in a cctv camera.

Output voltage reading as a state?

Seems much easier in this situation with an actual ongoing state change over say an alarm system that just triggers once.
 
Output voltage reading as a state?

Seems much easier in this situation with an actual ongoing state change over say an alarm system that just triggers once.

If it stays at 0 it's off. If it goes 10000, 0, 10000, 0, 10000, 0, 10000, 0, 10000, 0, 10000, 0, 10000, 0... it's on.
 
If it stays at 0 it's off. If it goes 10000, 0, 10000, 0, 10000, 0, 10000, 0, 10000, 0, 10000, 0, 10000, 0... it's on.

Yeah kind of my logic.

Not sure how to go about it but at least you have something to work with.
 
Ok, I have been paying attention to this thread for a while but not very closely and want to bite bullet to 'automate' some stuff next weekend using some Sonoff controllers. Really would appreciate help regarding what I should buy from smarkit.co.za (where I did purchase two controllers in December that are still sitting in the box).

Currently, I have Alexa Devices, with loads of Philips Hue Lights and strip lights! Ok maybe about 12 of them and they work great with Alexa, Google Home and Siri. And I have an unused SONOFF Dual and a Sonoff POW. I have great Wi-Fi coverage both inside and outside the house. I also have an Efergy unit that has been working for over a year now giving me fairly accurate overall power usage. I also have an Internet connected Paradox Alarm with managed with Insite gold and CCTV system also accessible remotely. All my remote receivers for Fence, Garage, Gate use Sherlo receivers.


What I want to do:-

Firstly, I will be retrofitting an Raspberry Pi with Hass.io as that seems to the more secure/reliable option here than using EWElink software. I prefer to keep the control where possible inside the 'network, so I want all my SONOFF devices to be using Tasmota I think. Hopefully, I can get the Pi to use the Storage of my 10 year old NAS for logging, etc.


On the Purchase list:-

(1) Geysers
2 x SONOFF Pow R2 for my geysers. I guess I need to put a slave relay to turn on the geyser. So Sonoff turns on the relay which turns on the geyser. If I recall, this way I won't get power utilisation stats or will I? Both Geysers should be about 3Kw so I guess the Pow R2 should be able to handle natively. I don't have space in my DB so was planning to connect the SONOFF at the geyser input itself.

Good idea / bad idea?

(2) Pool Pump / External Lights
Use existing SONOFF Dual to control Pool Pump (1.1Kw) and External Lights (140w total) . According to Smarkit website, not available with Tasmota or is it possible? There is an external DB for this, so I can retrofit the SONOFF quite easily here.

(3) Automate Rolling Gate + Garage door
Want to automate Rolling Gate and Garage Door Motor with ability to see if they are open?
For this, which SONOFF should I buy? IIRC, I should buy two SONOFF Basics with Tasmota and then use pulse option to trigger gate? Do I need to put a reed switch to tell me if gate is open? My alarm guy tells me I can use the PGMs on the Paradox to control this and see status but I am thinking SONOFF would be better?

(4) Monitor pool temperature (just because it would be cool)
Will it be possible to install a SONOFF TH16 or SONOFF dual in a Sonoff IP66 case connected to the pool light point (I think it could be 12V) to monitor pool temperature? This way I can then using Hass.IO , i will be able to turn on lights and also see pool temp?


(5) Paradox alarm / Hass.io integration?
A few members talked about getting this right, but not sure if not posted publicly for others to use a custom job just for themselves. Would be lovely to tell Alexa, et al to arm/disarm instead of using Insite gold app?

6. Centralising control - Hass.io
With Hass.io, I will then also be able to connect my Philips Hue lights and Efergy to get a single pane of glass view. In the future, to build a panel like was posted earlier in this thread? Ideally still get Alexa to do stuff when asked or will this not be possible?

Thanks in advance to all for their help.
 
With the pows running relays, you will not get power usage. 3kw I would consider too much to risk with the POW though.
 
I'm assuming you'd still need to get power to the SV input?

From the manual:
A remote receiver can obtain 12VDC from the keypad bus. Current consumption
must not exceed 0.1 Amps. This is not sufficient to supply power for an armed
response transmitter.
• Never use the energizer battery to power a radio alarm transmitter or alarm panel.

Guessing you can't connect it direct to the battery because of the charging circuit etc.
It also doesn't indicate a convenient connector to connect to the keypad in that manual, and from the website it looks like only the Druid and Merlin models even have keypads so maybe it's a bit of copy/paste.
 
With the pows running relays, you will not get power usage. 3kw I would consider too much to risk with the POW though.
3kW draws 13 Amps. The POW should be able to handle that.
 
With the pows running relays, you will not get power usage. 3kw I would consider too much to risk with the POW though.

Ok, so definitely try to avoid slave relay if possible. For POW R2, the input/out rating is at 3500W /16 amps. With a 3000w element, the load would be 13amp ... but of course hoping the 3 amp buffer it has, will be be enough to protect it when the geyser is turned on :) I am willing to take a risk to try it on my main geyser
 
POW R2 also has overload protection. To be can set it to turn off if the current is exceeded.
 
Reason I would not use a POW is the fact that the geyser is on a 20A breaker normally. It's possible through an element malfunction to go well over the rating without tripping the breaker, how well do you trust the pow2 overload protection?
 
Why would you want to control you geyser? One thats not used often?
I have a POW on a 2kw tumble dryer but i would be apprehensive to add one to a geyser?
Other option it to step the element down to a smaller one.
 
Reason I would not use a POW is the fact that the geyser is on a 20A breaker normally. It's possible through an element malfunction to go well over the rating without tripping the breaker, how well do you trust the pow2 overload protection?

In this case, I guess the risk is that the POW R2 can catch fire or burn/short it's internals out. But if it does exceed 16amp which is what POW R2 is rated at .. will it not trip the switch in any case? One thing I don't want it to be non-compliant electrical wise in case of fire as that would void buildings cover, etc.
 
In this case, I guess the risk is that the POW R2 can catch fire or burn/short it's internals out. But if it does exceed 16amp which is what POW R2 is rated at .. will it not trip the switch in any case? One thing I don't want it to be non-compliant electrical wise in case of fire as that would void buildings cover, etc.

It will be non-compliant.
 
For all those guys using single channel/SVs on their gates and garages: do you have an issue with the gate not closing after having been opened? Sometimes you have to trigger multiple times to get the gate to close?
 
Never happened to me - I'm having trouble having lost contact with the sonoff (SV) after the 6.1.0 firmware debacle but never had above problems....
 
Never happened to me - I'm having trouble having lost contact with the sonoff (SV) after the 6.1.0 firmware debacle but never had above problems....

OK, but that's Tasmota then.

What are the Reed switches being used for?
 
OK, but that's Tasmota then.

What are the Reed switches being used for?

yeah, mine is a different type of problem.

I actually added a 12V relay (NT72C IIRC) to my sonoff SV in the gate motor as follows:

12V + and - (from the gate motor supply) to the sonoff + and - power input
sonoff SV output (+ and -) to relay input
relay output (NO contact) to gate motor trigger contacts

Previously, without the above relay, when sonoff triggers it would short the contacts on the gate motor trigger and this is not good. I therefore had to put the above relay in place in order to avoid shorting the "trigger" and "common 12V+" contacts on the gate motor.

If the above isn't very clear I can make a quick schematics or take a few photos of the wiring in my D5.
 
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