Home Automation - Smartkit

mbayshark said:
Could still just have them as an cheaper option. I've used them for Onedayonly as well. Don't think it's them that's slow, Onedayonly takes a while before the item is dispatched.
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It would only be for outlying areas, anyway. All major cities would be door-to-door.
 
I'm trying to connect a Sonoff POW switch. I'm having a problem that the switch doesn't connect to the wifi. My current wifi setup is my B618 router and Rain fixed LTE. I have also installed the eWeLink on my cellphone.
 
SlowInternet said:
I'm trying to connect a Sonoff POW switch. I'm having a problem that the switch doesn't connect to the wifi. My current wifi setup is my B618 router and Rain fixed LTE. I have also installed the eWeLink on my cellphone.
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Make 100% sure you're not connecting on a/c (5Ghz) as Sonoff only supports b/g/n (2.4Ghz) wifi.
 
InternetLuddite said:
In this case, I guess the risk is that the POW R2 can catch fire or burn/short it's internals out. But if it does exceed 16amp which is what POW R2 is rated at .. will it not trip the switch in any case? One thing I don't want it to be non-compliant electrical wise in case of fire as that would void buildings cover, etc.
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What did you do in the end? I am in the process of connecting 2 R2's to my geysers. Electrician advised me that it should be fine as its rated at 16A and geyser usually pulls 14. It does have overload protection so can do this at 17A just to be sure.

The last thing I want to do is start a fire!!!
 
Sensorei said:
Thanks man. Order placed. ;)
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Just to give you guys a heads up. This Sonoff RF Bridge just does not cut it. Big time FAIL.

The specs say it supports 'Receive & transmit frequency: 433.92MHz' on fixed code RF remotes. It doesn't work on my 433.92 MHz fixed code projector remote. It pairs and connects to my LAN without an issue but can't learn any of the buttons. The RF bridge is running the latest firmware.
 
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Chris_SA said:
What did you do in the end? I am in the process of connecting 2 R2's to my geysers. Electrician advised me that it should be fine as its rated at 16A and geyser usually pulls 14. It does have overload protection so can do this at 17A just to be sure.

The last thing I want to do is start a fire!!!
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Still haven't done anything but bought pow r2s last week. On one geyser it will be fine as it is only 2kw but definitely not for my main geyser which is 4kw - still looking for a cheap iot solution..
 
I just hooked up my garage door with Alexa and the Sonoff 1 Channel Inching/self-locking WiFi Wireless Switch.

It's an old ET Systems DC Blue motor. Very easy to set up. Took 5 minutes. If you're using eWeLink and don't want to fuss with soldering then give the Sonoff SV a miss and get one of these 1 channel WiFi switches.
 
Sensorei said:
I just hooked up my garage door with Alexa and the Sonoff 1 Channel Inching/self-locking WiFi Wireless Switch.

It's an old ET Systems DC Blue motor. Very easy to set up. Took 5 minutes. If you're using eWeLink and don't want to fuss with soldering then give the Sonoff SV a miss and get one of these 1 channel WiFi switches.
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Can you link to what you are referring to?

I've also got the ET Systems DC Blue so would like to see what you've gotten there. Is it powered from the ET like the SV would be? Because that is the main appeal of that unit.

And how do you get the status of the door out? Or are you just going for purely visual use?
 
Sensorei said:
I just hooked up my garage door with Alexa and the Sonoff 1 Channel Inching/self-locking WiFi Wireless Switch.

It's an old ET Systems DC Blue motor. Very easy to set up. Took 5 minutes. If you're using eWeLink and don't want to fuss with soldering then give the Sonoff SV a miss and get one of these 1 channel WiFi switches.
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Spill the beans - I've got a dc blue and recently an alexa.
 
SauRoNZA said:
Can you link to what you are referring to?

I've also got the ET Systems DC Blue so would like to see what you've gotten there. Is it powered from the ET like the SV would be? Because that is the main appeal of that unit.

And how do you get the status of the door out? Or are you just going for purely visual use?
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spiff said:
Spill the beans - I've got a dc blue and recently an alexa.
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Mine is a DC Blue Plus. Probably over 10 years old. The initial plan was to power it from the DC Blue's 12v output, but after thinking about it I was a bit worried about 12V causing damage to the main board over time, so I am using a 5V 500mA power supply from an old phone.

The Sonoff 1 chan wifi switch is wired up to the Common output (C) and N/O Button trigger input (BT). Add the device in your eWeLink app, join your LAN, then setup the eWeLink skill in Alexa. Tell Alexa to scan for new devices, then add a routine to open garage and close garage. Tell Alexa 'Open Garage' -> Win!
 
phaktza said:
It would only be for outlying areas, anyway. All major cities would be door-to-door.
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Thank you. Got my package today.
Already linked my 2 back spot lights up.

Google home is easy. Would be keen to either get a home device or get an echo dot

Next to setup the T1. See how that goes then change the rest.
 
Sensorei said:
Mine is a DC Blue Plus. Probably over 10 years old. The initial plan was to power it from the DC Blue's 12v output, but after thinking about it I was a bit worried about 12V causing damage to the main board over time, so I am using a 5V 500mA power supply from an old phone.

The Sonoff 1 chan wifi switch is wired up to the Common output (C) and N/O Button trigger input (BT). Add the device in your eWeLink app, join your LAN, then setup the eWeLink skill in Alexa. Tell Alexa to scan for new devices, then add a routine to open garage and close garage. Tell Alexa 'Open Garage' -> Win!
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I believe mine is identical.

My concern would be that the button is just a toggle right? So it doesn’t know open is open and close is close does it?

If someone say did a double tap where it stopped half way or used another’s remote and confused the issue what happens then?
 
SauRoNZA said:
I believe mine is identical.

My concern would be that the button is just a toggle right? So it doesn’t know open is open and close is close does it?

If someone say did a double tap where it stopped half way or used another’s remote and confused the issue what happens then?
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I'll probably get the Sonoff RF door/window sensors to let me know if the garage is open.

I might as well make some use of the Sonoff RF bridge, since it's not working with what I bought it for
 
I did that - put an alarm contact on my garage door. (its also programmed to Alert me if its been left open for longer than five minutes)

84c2a0b53e94ae6115526d77970b5f6f.jpg
 
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