Home Automation - Smartkit

Wow i only stumbled upon this forum as i bought 2 smart switches yesterday. Looking forward to getting stuck in. I bought the stuff from takealot, but will be purchasing from the smartkit guys going forward. I think im going to have many questions :)
 
Ordered some goodies from Smartkit yesterday, hope they despatch quickly.
I am sure I'll be coming back to this thread for advice/tips etc. :thumbsup:
 
I am playing with this at the very moment (well, with the garage door but the principle is the same).

I would recommend either the sonoff SV inching model (preferably the 5V/12V model, as the Centurion motor gives 12V) or the "ordinary" sonoff SV - hook it up to the Centurion gate motor power supply, program it so that it gives the pulse when you press the "toggle" button, and connect the output from the sonoff device to the 2 contacts that need to be shortened for the gate to open.

I'm now playing with the sonoff SV model (not the inching model, but have changed the settings so that it turns into the pulse mode - switches ON for the determined time and goes back OFF automatically). So you could use the sonoff with Tasmota the same way you use your NOVA remote but of course with remote/wifi capabilities of course.
So got me a few sonoff sv I thought it was as simple as flashing tasmota firmware setting to pulse powering it up with the 12v from the gate motor and connecting the output to the motor connectors to open and close but googling seems like there is some Hacking you need to do to remove resistors etc. How did you get this to work with your gate motor thanks in advance
 
Anyone done a PGM output to a Sonoff SV from an alarm system to get the status out that way by any chance?
 
So got me a few sonoff sv I thought it was as simple as flashing tasmota firmware setting to pulse powering it up with the 12v from the gate motor and connecting the output to the motor connectors to open and close but googling seems like there is some Hacking you need to do to remove resistors etc. How did you get this to work with your gate motor thanks in advance

That's because you need it to be a "dry" contact and not pass the input power through to the output otherwise you are going to blow up your gate motor in most cases.

Google for "dry contact" Sonoff SV.
 
So got me a few sonoff sv I thought it was as simple as flashing tasmota firmware setting to pulse powering it up with the 12v from the gate motor and connecting the output to the motor connectors to open and close but googling seems like there is some Hacking you need to do to remove resistors etc. How did you get this to work with your gate motor thanks in advance
I did remove the resistors to make it work with my gate motor.

Watch this video:

And here is a photo of my dirty DIY:

IMG_20181125_111604.jpg

red/brown on the right is the SV powered by the motor.
orange/yellow is connected to the 2nd button input on the motor, so I still have the original button on the controller available.

Dirty hack, I wrapped the SV in masking tape, to ensure it doesnt hit the motors electronics, and its hidden inside the controller box.
 
Anyone done a PGM output to a Sonoff SV from an alarm system to get the status out that way by any chance?
Hmm thats actually a great idea. SV can be powered from the alarm bus and then read the relay output on 1 of the inputs.

Just need to double check that the relay doesn't output power or something and just close the loop.
 
Hmm thats actually a great idea. SV can be powered from the alarm bus and then read the relay output on 1 of the inputs.

Just need to double check that the relay doesn't output power or something and just close the loop.

That’s exactly why I’m asking if someone a bit more clever than me has already done this because from my failings with the serial output it seems like a sensible choice with at least no less functionality than I have now.

The confusion comes in for me that the manual and online sources I’ve found all suggest one pole goes to the PGM and the other to one of the aux or bell connections which surely means power is going through it?

The most basic ones I’ve seen simply power up an LED to show the status. So what’s the lowest voltage the Sonoff would tolerate?

****

But yes my plan is exactly to power all the SV’s from the alarm, garage door and gate directly.

I just want to sort the alarm and it’s status out first otherwise the other two are pointless.

Sadly the serial port option I was bargaining on isn’t working.
 
I did remove the resistors to make it work with my gate motor.

Watch this video:

And here is a photo of my dirty DIY:

View attachment 584218

red/brown on the right is the SV powered by the motor.
orange/yellow is connected to the 2nd button input on the motor, so I still have the original button on the controller available.

Dirty hack, I wrapped the SV in masking tape, to ensure it doesnt hit the motors electronics, and its hidden inside the controller box.

Is it only removing the resistors? Or do you absolutely have to do the bridge wire I’ve seen mentioned a few times.

What is the point of that jumper on the board? I thought it was to do exactly this but apparently not.
 
The jumper differentiates between 12v and 5v input iirc
 
Is it only removing the resistors? Or do you absolutely have to do the bridge wire I’ve seen mentioned a few times.

What is the point of that jumper on the board? I thought it was to do exactly this but apparently not.
Bridge wire as in, connecting the button input on the garage motor to input + and output + on the SV?

Probably not needed, but its the easiest way after having removed the resistors. I prefer removing the resistors to ensure I am not sending voltage to something I don't want to. I guess its up to each person how they want to implement it.
 
Here's a question - I've already got a remote (ET) connected to my garage, and PGM from my paradox alarm - if I wanted to add a Sonoff SV - do I need a capacitor or something? They're all going into the same input on the garage motor.

I'm probably going to remove the ET system as it's no longer used.
 
Bridge wire as in, connecting the button input on the garage motor to input + and output + on the SV?

Probably not needed, but its the easiest way after having removed the resistors. I prefer removing the resistors to ensure I am not sending voltage to something I don't want to. I guess its up to each person how they want to implement it.

Rather referring to the SV itself.

A few guides remove the resistors but then bridge two connections on the SV itself. Don’t remember which now will have to confirm but something tells me was from the input to the output side.

If the removal of resistors makes it dry I don’t understand why it’s necessary.
 
I just noticed a fairly recent addition to the eWeLink app - on the Basic or RF/Wi-Fi switch, app update and/or firmware update to 2.6.0 has added inching control and a device LED toggle. Is the inching option what is used to pulse a gate motor/garage door motor?
 
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I just noticed a fairly recent addition to the eWeLink app - on the Basic or RF/Wi-Fi switch, firmware update to 2.6.0 has added inching control and a device LED toggle. Is the inching option what is used to pulse a gate motor/garage door motor?

Yes, usually. Would you mind posting a screenshot?
 
I just noticed a fairly recent addition to the eWeLink app - on the Basic or RF/Wi-Fi switch, app update and/or firmware update to 2.6.0 has added inching control and a device LED toggle. Is the inching option what is used to pulse a gate motor/garage door motor?

This feature does not work on my 1 Channel WiFi Wireless Switch (well, atleast changing the settings on the app has no changes on the device).
 
This feature does not work on my 1 Channel WiFi Wireless Switch (well, atleast changing the settings on the app has no changes on the device).

I just tested one of the 1 channel Wi-Fi (Basic) switches that I have here:

https://sonoff.itead.cc/en/products/sonoff/sonoff-basic

Inching and Disable Indicator both work fine.

Check that the switch firmware is on 2.6.0

eWeLink app version (iOS) 3.5.4
 
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